06 g35 coupe gas gas cluster not workin
06 g35 coupe gas gas cluster not workin
my engine showed me a code that my fuel pump needs replacing after I took it in when my gas Guage cluster was not working properly, fuel pump was replaced and it is still not reading right what could it be? Could it also affect the way the rpm climbs?
Ok, is it part of the fuel pump? It went out on me and I replaced it and it still not reading right. So that sensor is another part of the assembly unit?
Here is a thread with instructions and pictures of the unit. The piece you care about looks like one of those wanna-be futuristic looking gauge clusters from a 1980's supercar... kinda like on the dashboard of KITT from Knight Ryder.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...stimonial.html
That look like the arm off of the fuel pump, its most likly the sensor. is that also the cause of the rpm climp a bit lag because not enough fuel is being sent right when i push it?
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods

That's possible but you won't know until you clean it. How many miles are on your car? Is it having any other issues? It's been 9 days since partyman's advice, have you tried to clean the sensor yet? If not try it before you ask any more questions, you might answer all of them if the cleaning works.
sorry to steal this, but my gas gauge is acting weird. it was only reading half full all the time when i stayed in town. One day I drove my car for 8 hours and that whole time my gas gauge read properly went all the way to full and empty no problems. now that I am back in town my gas gauge went back to not working again. I have tried the q tip trick what else can I do?
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,488
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods

Read through the forum and use the search feature and Google to help you research. Lots of different issues with fixes discussed on the forum for the gas gauges here.
Ok, I had gotten this fixed, once it done do i also do a self check or something? Now my gas gauge doesnt go past the full anymore and the rpm flutter is gone. now everything is fixed hopefully!
Nah, it's just a fuel pump they are usually just remove and replace. If your problem still existed afterwards there is a self diag you can do on the cluster to test the gauges.
I would say your RPM flutter was probably due to the faulty pump either pumping too much gas or too little. My Audi was pushing 100PSI of fuel and the spec was supposed to be around 55PSI.
I need to fix my sensors, since they read all over the place. I actually ran out of gas once on a busy intersection, because I didn't know it was messed up.
I would say your RPM flutter was probably due to the faulty pump either pumping too much gas or too little. My Audi was pushing 100PSI of fuel and the spec was supposed to be around 55PSI.
I need to fix my sensors, since they read all over the place. I actually ran out of gas once on a busy intersection, because I didn't know it was messed up.
The check engine went away and the gas guage still not working, im not sure if the mechanic did any type of ecu reset or something. Is there anything i need to do after i got my fuel sending units replaced?
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manu...6_G35_Coupe/di
Check out page 19, you can use a digital multimeter and unplug the harness from the top of the fuel pump (intact, doesn't need to be removed), read resistance across the two pins (2,5) shown in the diagram and the resistance varies depending on how much fuel is in the tank. If the resistance varies properly from full to empty then the issue is farther upstream (likely the instrument cluster). If the resistance does NOT change but is a static value within the acceptable range then perhaps the float arm was damaged or bound up on something during installation. If there is no resistance but just an open circuit then the assembly needs to be replaced.
Check out page 19, you can use a digital multimeter and unplug the harness from the top of the fuel pump (intact, doesn't need to be removed), read resistance across the two pins (2,5) shown in the diagram and the resistance varies depending on how much fuel is in the tank. If the resistance varies properly from full to empty then the issue is farther upstream (likely the instrument cluster). If the resistance does NOT change but is a static value within the acceptable range then perhaps the float arm was damaged or bound up on something during installation. If there is no resistance but just an open circuit then the assembly needs to be replaced.



