Is there any way that one could swap in an alternate master cylinder for the clutch in order to alter the catchpoint so that it is closer to the floor?

Is the clutch master cylinder associated with the brakes as well?

I ask because since picking up my car two months ago this has been the only sore-point. It's not something that I haven't overcome, but, I remember in my previous cars the feel of a new clutch that would catch as soon as it came up from the floor and it just made the cars seem so much faster. I have adjusted my clutch, but this only reduces dead travel--it doesn't change the clutch catch point.

My old 1990 240SX with 140hp would seriously chirp 2nd gear when I replaced the clutch and the car felt entirely different--like I had added 50hp to it, because of how quickly it shifted to stay in the powerband.

As many have stated, the stock clutch catch is too high and it makes driving smoothly difficult and increases the total time it takes to shift the car--giving it a less sporty feel--especially when you need to make a quick downshift. My guess is that a smoother shifter (the effort in the 05 felt much lighter in both the clutch and the shifter when I felt it), but moreso a tighter clutch, could knock off a tenth or two in the 1/4 mile compared to stock just in the time it takes to shift and regain power.

Does anyone think this is even a possibility or have a definitive answer on which aftermarket clutch could accomplish this task while remaining streetable?

Thanks...Hopefully sometime we can get this thing figured out.

JZ

 

See this link:

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...5&o=&fpart=all

 

Wow, ask and you shall receive! Great link.

 

Thanks for the reply--but that is the same old link to reducing the free play of the clutch. That procedure does not make the clutch catch closer to the floor, it just reduces the distance you need to push the pedal in order to release the clutch, thus giving the illusion that the clutch is catching sooner.

I'm looking for a more hard-core solution to this issue.

 

JZ,

You originally said, "Is there any way that one could swap in an alternate master cylinder for the clutch in order to alter the catchpoint so that it is closer to the floor?"

The link provided does precisely that. If you are now suggesting that you wish to somehow change the difference in pedal depression between disengaging and engaging the clutch itself then that's not the question you originally posed.

Clutches in 1950 Fords, 1956 TR-3's, and 2005 Infiniti 6MT's all have one thing in common. A pedal mechanically linked to a piston that transmits hydraulic pressure to another piston that actuates (engages/disengages) the clutch.

To adjust the pedal height wherein the clutch disengages involves lengthening or shortening the mechanical linkage on the pedal side of the clutch master cylinder. There is no mechanical adjustment available on the clutch (or slave) cylinder."

 

Oh dang! I didn't read far enough into that thread!

Thanks guys!

 

It is important if you attempt this adjustment, that the clevis pin connecting the fork to the clutch pedal, is free to rotate when the pedal is up in its normal driving position. If not, it means that the piston in the master cylinder is depressed which in turn depresses the slave cylinder, bringing the throw out bearing in contact with the clutch and even slightly depressing the clutch which will shorten throw out bearing and clutch plate life. I know that the clutch has a different feel than any of the other MT cars that I have driven, but you will get used to it. Not worth burning up the clutch prematurely and not having it covered by warranty becaused you adjusted it wrong.

 

Just wondering if anyone has had any premature clutch problems because they peformed the clutch adjustment discussed in the freshalloy thread (and/or any other similar threads)???