Does anyone know if it’s possible that maybe my ecu taught itself how to do that because of the fact I normally get close to flooring my pedal every time I first start driving and I’ll adjust so my first gear revs loud as possible for as long as possible

 

Ok in that case it sounds like you have an upstream O2 sensor not cycling properly. Get it on an OBD2 scanner that shows realtime data and make sure they are cycling properly. You should be able to look up a youtube vid of o2 sensor cycling to see what it should look at.

Make sure to check it at idle AND while doing a few WOT pulls (in park, not driving unless you are logging data, don't wreck your car staring at an OBD2 scanner while driving).

O2 sensors are only good for MAYBE 100k miles before they start to show signs of wear but they die an extremely slow death and in some cases can last for 300k miles however the delay in output is significant and imo they should be replaced at around 60-80k.

EDIT: For a performance car anyways, your daily driver shitbox that doesn't get pushed hard will probably never need them replaced.

 

those were also replaced because it was throwing a code when I got the motor swapped. it's not throwing a code but I guess i'll give it a try. will post if successful or not afterwards

 

The spudder issue hesitation at wot in the ds mode only was this ever figured out or fixed I’m having same issue

 

I fixed my issue but I think we might have different problems, mine was a bad relay on the Transmission control module(TCM) simple test and fix but I guess it wouldn’t hurt for you to try. If you have an 03-04 then your TCM is under your glovebox to the right, behind the trim on the right side, remove panel and swap out the blue relay with the one under the hood(reverse light relay) if it goes away with that then you just have to replace that relay. Other year models have the TCM inside of the tranny tho. By DS mode did you mean manual mode?

 

I’m thinking you’re could be MAF sensor or throttle body related. Check your hoses and clamps and make sure everything looks clean and connected properly. If not that then you can do a quick search for the transmission reset procedure, I think it might be the ECU procedure. I forget but just google it and it’ll pop up on these forums, it’s just a turn of the key and a few timed pedal pushes

 

I think I have the same problem, I'm getting a couple codes for what I think is either the TCM or perhaps the valve body/solenoids I have the same symptoms that you all have, when I go full throttle my rpms skip around, how much was it to replace the tcm? Would you recommend replacing it or just getting a new transmission what do you think is better appreciate it

 

Exactly what codes are you throwing?

 

I'm throwing p0744 and p1744

 

Yup...sometimes no codes at all.
tcm relay
Wrong (NON NISSAN) AT fluid (usually "cold" weather response)
Throttle body/gas pedal controller (whatever they are called).

 

P0744 - Torque converter isn't locking up, usually a failing TCC solenoid.

P1744 - Generic code for the same problem, likely your OBD2 scanner doesn't have protocol ISO 9141-2 so it's just making this code up based on the other one that's actually being thrown.

First thing to do is verify that you actually have proper tranny fluid levels, make sure to do your fluid check when hot, if you aren't sure how to do a transmission fluid check you can either watch a youtube video or feel free to ask here. It's straightforward but if you don't do it right you will NOT get an accurate fluid reading.

If the transmission does have proper fluid levels at operating temp I personally would replace the converter lockup solenoid first before doing the entire valve body.

Check out the Sonnax website, it's got pictures of the different revisions of valve bodies as well as solenoid locations.

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...identification

You're looking to replace the TCC solenoid which is always the second from the left as shown in those pictures.

Alternatively you can just order up a rebuilt valve body with the solenoids already installed. Once you figure out exactly which style you use you can take the sonnax part number and put it into carid.com or rockauto.com and they're usually like $350 (big core charge so be aware of the extra couple hundred bucks that you will get back later).

 

thank you man, transmission fluid level is good, gonna try and take the car to the shop this weekend and have them replace the solenoids I'll let you know how it turns out🤞🏾

 

Something to have the shop check also is the wires on the valve body to TCM harness, sometimes they break and need to be resoldered.