05 6mt coupe 114,000 miles w/ just bolt ons

So it's got a rebuilt transmission with 5k on it, I'm assuming they did the clutch and flywheel while they were in there. I was told it's a 6-puck clutch and lightweight flywheel, but I have no idea what brand.

I've only put about 500 miles on it since I got it. The clutch has been super grippy, could do 2nd and 3rd gear scratches all day. Yesterday somebody was riding my rear end too close for comfort so I dropped it down to 2nd and gunned it and it slipped pretty hard the whole way. There wasn't any clutch smell but now the pedal feels softer and the engagement point seems higher. The shifts are softer too and I couldn't get a 2nd gear scratch anymore. I drove it nicely a bit today, then tried for another 2nd gear scratch and no good. Tried again and it seemed normal. Tired squeaked into 2nd. But the pedal still feels softer and engaging higher.

With only 5k on the clutch, could this be some other issue or is it just the clutch? Maybe it's just glazed a bit? I have no idea if it's a nice clutch or a cheap one. The fluid looks brand new, topped off and clear as can be.

I'm going to keep driving it and see how it does, but if it doesnt get better I'll be looking for new ones.

So I've been looking around some and I'm not sure what to get. I definitely want at least another 6-puck, but how are the 4-pucks? I saw some twin plate clutches I'd be interested in too. What are the pros and cons of a twin plate? Do they wear faster? What about the different materials? Is there a trade off for engagement vs wear?

I want a clutch that's unforgiving and will wear slowly even with agressive driving. I hate worrying about slipping. I don't want to get into a spontaneous race and then slip my way into the loser's circle, but I also don't want to replace the clutch every 5k miles either. What's a grippy, long lasting clutch?

 

I cant answer your questions - but am here to see the response. I am looking for a new clutch/flywheel as well - used to scratch 3rd with no issues, but now it is more intermittent. I don't think i have the slip condition like you, just some wear - maybe warmer tires. Either way, would love to hear feedback to you last two statements - a grippy, long lasting clutch?

 

We might be waiting a while, this place seems all but dead.

My clutch came back to life. I must have glazed it. I probably hit the gas before the clutch fully engaged 2nd gear and slipped through it.

 

Does it rev pretty freely? I know a lightweight flywheel revs a bit faster than stock. I see some pretty good $400 dollar options at CZP - but still would like to know which holds up the best. Also - read somewhere that the SS clutch line is pretty important to get that good feel when launching...

Hope I didn't make this worse for you - after tons of mods and tuning - a short throw shifter and a good clutch made most the gains on my sedan - hope to do the same on my coupe.

See you in the forums....

 

Oh yeah it revs real freely. It has a short throw shifter too. Shift pretty damn solid and quick. I bought it like this so I have no idea how it compares to stock, but from what I see online it's umm, very tamed stock. Slow revving and super smooth engagement. I thought about doing a stainless steel clutch line but haven't looked into it much. It launches fine when I want to launch hard, but regular every day take-offs can sometimes be tricky and sometimes it jerks or chatters, Idk the word, but shakes the whole car when I try to slip it on take-off.

 

Makes sense to me - I recently put a single pc aluminum drive shaft on my coupe - it has the HONDA lurch a bit now. When I let off the throttle at higher RPM's it does that lurchy/shake condition. I assume its because it doesnt have the two pc system to absorb some the torque like before. Overall, I am pretty happy with it - seems to rev a bit faster now as well. I am worried about doing the drive shaft and light weight flywheel together - I read how on hard launches the faster rev is not a good thing - so still on the fence if i will do the flywheel.

For the clutch - I am thinking a stage one, like 20% over stock with a SS line from CZP - they told me if I am not boosting and staying N/A - anything over a stage1 is over kill. I doubt I will ever exceed the 20% ratio on my build for the time being. My baseline was 260hp at Z1 - and 277 after tune - so even with a few more additional mods, I dont see me getting to the 312 hp mark to justify the stage 2+ clutch. I drag and autox my G35 monthly, so a smooth engagement on the clutch is key.