Hello all. I am having a bit of an issue with my rear toe on a 2007 6MT with RAS (rear active steer).
I didn't even know the car had it when I bought it until it was in for alignment and the tech pointed it out after owning the car almost 8 months!
My issue is that before I put on the SPC front camber arms and shims, rear camber arms and rear toe bolts ( I also elongated the steel arms the RAS uses in order to gain some additional adjustment) my toe is worse off than ever after tinkering with it this morning.
The best I can do so far is .50 degrees on the driver and .41 degrees on the passenger side according to the last alignment done.
My can has the green Tein springs on factory sport package dampers.
Is my car too low to get the rear toe in order? How do I solve this? I have searched extensively but see very few post with regard to RAS equipped vehicles and subsequent issues.

 

How low are you compared to stock.

What do you mean "elongated the steel arms the RAS uses" you mean you elongated the BOLT HOLES so you could use those SPC toe bolts correct?

Do you also have adjustable radius arms in the rear or just the toe bolts and camber arms?

Lastly, where did you take your vehicle for an alignment and do they regularly work on lowered vehicles?

What was the technician trying to adjust rear camber to? It should be about -1.25 degrees in the rear with total toe of 0.110.

Posting a picture of your alignment report would help a lot.

I have no idea why the size of my text changed...

 

The RAS system as a steel arm, not aluminum like the other models. Grinding it out is a bit more than doing aluminum.
I have the toe bolts and camber arms, no adjustable radius arms. From what I gathered those are used when going to a true coilover in the rear?

Alignment

 

Here's a picture from under my 2006 RAS equipped coupe, the part you dremel is that black shackle directly behind the eccentric washer. There's a template in the toe bolt kit that you set up between the washer stops and use a sharpie or paint the metal, then remove anything that's been painted.




As for the alignment numbers, how low are you compared to stock? OEM wheelarch height is 27.5" I'm only 1/2 inch lower than stock so obviously that's an easy one to align.

Where did you take the vehicle for alignment? If you went to Nissan that's probably the problem, you need to go to a shop that specializes in lowered or racing vehicles, the Nissan alignment tech is usually a brand new employee that doesn't know **** about how the geometry of a multilink suspension works and when you start throwing camber arms into the equation = mind blown.

They should have given you more negative camber to pull your toe back into spec, that's why I suspect you went to El Random Alignment Center or the dealership. Those techs at those shops don't have a fundamental understanding of what alignment means for tire wear and if you were an additional degree negative on camber but your toe was set within spec you would have been fine. However that much negative toe is going to DESTROY your rear tires because they're sliding at an angle down the road instead of rolling straight. They also did a **** job leveling out each corner the same, your front toe is also out of spec even though the box is green, maximum total toe should not exceed 0.08 degrees and your left/right side are wildly different, they should be adjusting those the same within 0.01 degrees.

 

Front toe should be 0.04 on each corner for a total toe of 0.08. This is in regards to a TSB for tire feathering issues using less toe. That's the maximum listed value in the FSM.

 

I have elongated the correct areas to max. Perhaps the place I went are jokers. I had no idea about manipulating camber to get better toe. The car has been driving with a little duck butt wiggle too it from that negative toe. Thank you for all of the input!!!

 

Yeah I'm not surprised, don't go hard into a corner it will be very unpredictable like that. I don't know exact numbers but I bet if you pulled a degree more negative camber in the rear you will be within spec on the toe. I'm just guessing but you're probably MORE than an inch lower than stock yeah?

Negative camber just determines the ANGLE that tires will wear, they won't wear out any quicker (well technically yes because the side with the angle will literally have less tread depth) but negative camber does not cause PREMATURE tire wear.

Having toe out of spec means the tire isn't rolling straight down the road, the car will DRIVE straight but the tire is pointed out at an angle and it's sliding sideways down the road and that absolutely DESTROYS tires.

 

You were totally right! My rear RAS arms were fine, the stupid alignment place didn't know that if you adjust camber it affects toe. Now my car is DIALED the old fashioned way with a sight bubble style alignment. I will never do computer alignment again.

 

There's nothing wrong with the computer setups but the tech needs to know how to adjust the vehicle I will never put my cars in a regular alignment shop, dealership, etc. I go to a frame straightening shop in town that has guys who actually understand how the various triangles in the alignment relate to one another. It costs a little more but I just tell them how much camber/toe I want and they get it as close as they can with both sides being balanced the same.

They're a reputable local shop that I've used for years. Every town has one somewhere and the trick is finding them and then just be a loyal customer for the rest of your life.

 

Nice.. cleric is the bomb.

 

I got an 06 g35 6MT and my HICAS makes a rattling sound causing slight shaking of the car when I put the key switch position to “ON” the one right before the car is actually on . Why ? Could I pull fuse and drive it like that would it be safe ??

 

Responded to your other post.