Engine burning oil
Engine burning oil
Recently my car has been burning massive amounts of oil and white smoke now pours out of the exhaust. I have come to grips that my rings are worn and i still can’t find any relevant information on what i should do, keep in mind that I want the car to be a daily but have the ability to smoke anything that doesn’t have 300+hp. With that in mind should I rebuild the motor or swap it for something better. please do give some feedback on what kind of motor i can swap or what shop in socal can rebuild my motor. trying to keep the budget under $700-$800
-thanks
-thanks
Rebuild for 800 bucks isn't gonna happen. I think you might spend that in parts alone. The amount of work to tear down the block and rebuild it you'll be paying 3k easy. It'll be better to swap a used block in but you run the risk of having the same oil burning issues.
I'd do a leakdown and compression test first just to verify the rings are smoked.
You could flex hone / re-ring, new HG, new timing chain and tensioners, with crank/rod bearings for $800 if you're doing the labor yourself. There wouldn't be much in the budget for repairing any potential head issues but you could still get it decked.
You could flex hone / re-ring, new HG, new timing chain and tensioners, with crank/rod bearings for $800 if you're doing the labor yourself. There wouldn't be much in the budget for repairing any potential head issues but you could still get it decked.
When a VQ fails it's pretty much toast. Look for a lower mile replacement. Rebuilding them is a very time intensive job and will require machine shop work. If mine goes it's used engine time.
Rebuild for 800 bucks isn't gonna happen. I think you might spend that in parts alone. The amount of work to tear down the block and rebuild it you'll be paying 3k easy. It'll be better to swap a used block in but you run the risk of having the same oil burning issues.
I'd do a leakdown and compression test first just to verify the rings are smoked.
You could flex hone / re-ring, new HG, new timing chain and tensioners, with crank/rod bearings for $800 if you're doing the labor yourself. There wouldn't be much in the budget for repairing any potential head issues but you could still get it decked.
You could flex hone / re-ring, new HG, new timing chain and tensioners, with crank/rod bearings for $800 if you're doing the labor yourself. There wouldn't be much in the budget for repairing any potential head issues but you could still get it decked.
Engines last as long as it takes to smoke the rings or spin a bearing, that's highly dependent on how you use them. The LS1 I just assembled will probably only see 100k miles max before it needs a rebuild because that's the life expectancy for a 500hp motor.
Mildly driven with infrequent spirited driving, zero track use, 70/30 highway miles and religious maintenance you'll get 250k+
Buy everything as a complete kit to save some money, just google search for "infiniti g35 engine rebuild kit". However a word of caution, if you've never rebuilt an engine before then you should probably just start searching for a lower mile USED ENGINE. There's a lot of little things like measuring clearances, filing rings, flex hone, etc that takes a little practice and it it's going to spoil your day when your freshly assembled motor dies because of a little mistake.
Mildly driven with infrequent spirited driving, zero track use, 70/30 highway miles and religious maintenance you'll get 250k+
Buy everything as a complete kit to save some money, just google search for "infiniti g35 engine rebuild kit". However a word of caution, if you've never rebuilt an engine before then you should probably just start searching for a lower mile USED ENGINE. There's a lot of little things like measuring clearances, filing rings, flex hone, etc that takes a little practice and it it's going to spoil your day when your freshly assembled motor dies because of a little mistake.
Trending Topics
Engines last as long as it takes to smoke the rings or spin a bearing, that's highly dependent on how you use them. The LS1 I just assembled will probably only see 100k miles max before it needs a rebuild because that's the life expectancy for a 500hp motor.
Mildly driven with infrequent spirited driving, zero track use, 70/30 highway miles and religious maintenance you'll get 250k+
Buy everything as a complete kit to save some money, just google search for "infiniti g35 engine rebuild kit". However a word of caution, if you've never rebuilt an engine before then you should probably just start searching for a lower mile USED ENGINE. There's a lot of little things like measuring clearances, filing rings, flex hone, etc that takes a little practice and it it's going to spoil your day when your freshly assembled motor dies because of a little mistake.
Mildly driven with infrequent spirited driving, zero track use, 70/30 highway miles and religious maintenance you'll get 250k+
Buy everything as a complete kit to save some money, just google search for "infiniti g35 engine rebuild kit". However a word of caution, if you've never rebuilt an engine before then you should probably just start searching for a lower mile USED ENGINE. There's a lot of little things like measuring clearances, filing rings, flex hone, etc that takes a little practice and it it's going to spoil your day when your freshly assembled motor dies because of a little mistake.
I didn't LS swap my G, that engine is sitting in a 1999 Trans Am, total there was only about $600 in parts in that engine because it was already supercharged and I was rebuilding the existing engine, it was mostly just machine work (oversized valves and such, mostly head work) and I've got a pretty good working relationship with a machine shop in town. Not my car though, did it for a friend, reused a lot of components that didn't require machining and the power level of that motor is well within the limits of what the stock rods can handle. Pistons were already replaced years ago when we put the S/C on and they looked fine so I just reused them.
Why do you immediately decide that the engine is gone? These engines are known to have oil use issues, some of which can be corrected. All engines use a touch of oil no matter whether they are brand new or 100k on the clock. Until you perform compression and leakdown tests, I do not think you actually know the condition of the engine. You may find that rather than a worn out engine that you have a stuck oil ring. I recently corrected this problem on two different engines but the procedure would be about the same and it's worth trying before spending money for a rebuild or replacement.
The main ingredients I used were Marvel Mystery Oil and Seafoam Treatment and Seafoam Intake Spray + PATIENCE. You will also need a wood rod, about 15" long, 1/4" diameter or so that will fit through the spark plug hole.
Remove all of the spark plugs. Using something like a bathroom Dixie cup, pour about 3 ounces of the MMO into each cylinder. Use the rod immediately to see the level of oil in each cylinder, monitor this to make sure the oil is gone or almost gone before performing the next step. You do not want to hydraulic the engine. It can take as long as 4 hours - at least on the engines I did this was the amount of time involved.
Turn the engine over one revolution by hand if possible, or if you have to use the starter - just tap it a few times. You may want to wad up paper towels and put them in the plug holes as some of the MMO will be pushed out.
Put 3 ounces of the Seafoam into each cylinder, again monitor the amount of oil in each cylinder.
Repeat the above sequence at least once more, twice more will not hurt it.
Using the wood rod, check each cylinder using the rod as a dipstick. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THIS ENGINE UNTIL ALL OF THE OIL HAS GOTTEN PAST THE RINGS!
Keep checking, this could take some good amount of time but once you see no oil on top of the pistons or very little, you should spin the engine over a few times with rags in place to capture any additional oil pushed out. You can now replace the spark plugs and fire the engine. Yes it will be smoking so you should do this outside of a garage. Once the engine has warmed up, you will need to loosen the intake duct at the throttle body enough to slide the spray straw of the Seafoam Intake Spray into it. You will need to bring the revs up and down while spraying the Seafoam into the intake and yes the neighborhood will not see any mosquitoes for a while. Use up the entire can of intake spray.
Drive the car normally a few different times and see if this has loosened the oil ring package and controlling the excessive oil burning.
I have done this procedure twice on two different engines with success on both of them. Again, it sounds nutty I know but what you are doing is putting a high amount of oil detergent into the ring package to break down any sludge that has formed which is causing the oil rings to not function correctly.
The main ingredients I used were Marvel Mystery Oil and Seafoam Treatment and Seafoam Intake Spray + PATIENCE. You will also need a wood rod, about 15" long, 1/4" diameter or so that will fit through the spark plug hole.
Remove all of the spark plugs. Using something like a bathroom Dixie cup, pour about 3 ounces of the MMO into each cylinder. Use the rod immediately to see the level of oil in each cylinder, monitor this to make sure the oil is gone or almost gone before performing the next step. You do not want to hydraulic the engine. It can take as long as 4 hours - at least on the engines I did this was the amount of time involved.
Turn the engine over one revolution by hand if possible, or if you have to use the starter - just tap it a few times. You may want to wad up paper towels and put them in the plug holes as some of the MMO will be pushed out.
Put 3 ounces of the Seafoam into each cylinder, again monitor the amount of oil in each cylinder.
Repeat the above sequence at least once more, twice more will not hurt it.
Using the wood rod, check each cylinder using the rod as a dipstick. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THIS ENGINE UNTIL ALL OF THE OIL HAS GOTTEN PAST THE RINGS!
Keep checking, this could take some good amount of time but once you see no oil on top of the pistons or very little, you should spin the engine over a few times with rags in place to capture any additional oil pushed out. You can now replace the spark plugs and fire the engine. Yes it will be smoking so you should do this outside of a garage. Once the engine has warmed up, you will need to loosen the intake duct at the throttle body enough to slide the spray straw of the Seafoam Intake Spray into it. You will need to bring the revs up and down while spraying the Seafoam into the intake and yes the neighborhood will not see any mosquitoes for a while. Use up the entire can of intake spray.
Drive the car normally a few different times and see if this has loosened the oil ring package and controlling the excessive oil burning.
I have done this procedure twice on two different engines with success on both of them. Again, it sounds nutty I know but what you are doing is putting a high amount of oil detergent into the ring package to break down any sludge that has formed which is causing the oil rings to not function correctly.
Last edited by chasracer; Dec 7, 2019 at 09:17 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post








