I was down the block from my house when my car started to stutter, then throttle had no response when pushed until the car finally died out. The oil light, brake light and battery light all came on while it was stuttering out.

I couldn’t see any oil leaks but on the return line from radiator it had a little bit of oil on the outside. Slow oil leak and car protected itself from damage?

gonna look it at tmwr and see what’s up but I would like some input.

 

If check engine light is on, scan it for codes. Thatll tell u what went wrong.

 

Out of gas?

 

This^^^ don't go off what the gas gauge says, it's a common failure point, add at least one gallon of fresh fuel and see if it will start.

While cranking the engine do you see the tachometer move? If not you likely lost the crank position sensor.

The NATS/IVIS indicator LED on the left side of the dash should NOT be solid red while you are cranking the engine, if it is then the vehicle doesn't recognize your key anymore. This sometimes happens for no reason and will require you to get the BCM programmed to accept the key again, most reputable locksmiths can do this for cheaper than the dealership which will charge you 1 hour of labor to reprogram the keys.

There is no fuel pressure access port so you would need to install a sandwich adapter like this one to test fuel pressure.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rt-p-9160.html

I'm betting you find a crank or cam sensor code when you plug in an OBD2 scanner. Make sure it's got OBD2 protocol ISO 9141-2 or you will end up with wierd codes that don't match anything.

If none of those things match what you're finding then it's probably a failing cam sensor, you can SORT OF test this by pulling a spark plug, put it back in the coil pack, hold the ground strap of the spark plug about 1/4" away from the metal upper intake plenum with a LEATHER GLOVED HAND and have someone else crank the engine while you watch for spark. No spark increases the chances of it being a cam sensor.

Be sure to only use Genuine Nissan OEM or Hitachi sensors. Other brands typically don't work or fail prematurely. Hitachi makes the OEM sensors and it's usually cheaper to buy them as Hitachi rather than Genuine Nissan. Don't believe the eBay sellers that claim they're selling all 3 sensors for a ridiculously low price, they're knockoffs in a very convincing package.

 

What you are describing sounds exactly like what happened to me. My problem, when I experienced what you are saying, was that I ran out of fuel. Now, yes your fuel light may not have come on, mine didn’t either. The gauge was sitting at a quarter tank, but the tank itself was empty. The oil, battery light, etc., came on because it’ll even come on when you accidentally stall out or something similar.

So, hopefully you have figured out the issue by now, but if not, get a small tank of gas and fill it up. If it starts, there’s your problem. That means you need a new Fuel Sending Unit or something like that, it’s not too difficult of a fix and is under one of the rear seats I believe. This’ll fix the readings of fuel on your fuel gauge.

 

I learned this the hard way on my drive home from picking up my new (to me) G35 yesterday. Cruising along, SES light comes on and as soon as I think "hmmm, that's weird" brrrbrrrbrrrrrrrbrrrrrrrr and I am coasting to the side of the freeway with 1/4 tank showing on the gauge. Thank GOODNESS it was just fuel level, a rescue from a friend with a 2gal can and I am fired back up. Problem is the code didn't go away, left me with 0420 and 0430, so the fact that they both showed up at the same time means I hope the cat isn't out all of a sudden- I cleared the codes and it came back within 100mi of driving. Maybe I baked them? Noooooo

Still sifting through FAQs and stickies, but if anyone else got codes as a result of running out of gas, please chime in.

Thanks y'all!

 

Normally to repair the fuel gauge issue and assuming it truly is the sending unit and not the dash gauge or attending pieces, you will need both sending units. There is one on each side of the tank and you might as well do both of them while you have it apart.

 

I've come close to buying this a few times. I'm assuming the extra fuel pressure gauge and schrader valve are a necessity also? The price seems right

 

You only need one, personally I think the Schrader valve is the better option since it allows you a convenient spot to bleed fuel pressure when you open the system for any repairs.