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I just purchased a 2004 350z 6mt, thought I'd also ask you guys over here about this issue. Previous owner had no idea what was wrong with the car, as it started up and did this:
After replacing all plugs and verifying I had spark, I am still left with this issue. I am for sure getting fuel. Upon startup, it will run like a boat, then if I attempt to get off the clutch into a gear it dies, same thing happens if I try to give it throttle in neutral. Only codes thrown are a misfire at the moment. The clutch master cyl also is out and the clutch is stuck to the floor. Unsure if this has anything to do with this problem.
The exhaust is currently off at the y-pipe while I wait on my single exit to get in. I have a 5at G35 coupe that I can source parts from, so I am really unsure as to what this could be. I have attempted an ECU reset, but oddly enough when I go through the process I cannot get the CEL to light up or blink... really strange. Any advice would be awesome!
Just double checked and all plug wires are in OEM locations. I'll try to throw my G35 midpipe on it tomorrow and see how that goes by way of sound. But no joke it sounds the same in person as it does in the video. Weirdest sound I've heard come out of a VQ yet short of a rod being thrown.
Having the midpipe disconnected makes it harder to tell how the car is running because of all the sound.
But are u sure your spark plug wires arent crossed up?
Ive also just noticed that I have NO RPM reading whatsoever. I'd say the engine is turning a solid 1-200 RPMs. Could this be a symptom of something else?
Ive also just noticed that I have NO RPM reading whatsoever. I'd say the engine is turning a solid 1-200 RPMs. Could this be a symptom of something else?
I believe the RPM reading is picked up by the crankshaft position sensor. But if that was inop then the engine wouldnt even start. U probably have a few other issues that need to be sorted out first.
Hook up a good scan tool so you can see if any sensors are not working. Check output of each coil while running. I have heard engine sound like that missing on several cylinders. Could even go as deep as a bad coil driver in the ECU but you will have to see what the scanner shows for starts. Looks like it died as soon as you touched the pedal.
Hook up a good scan tool so you can see if any sensors are not working. Check output of each coil while running. I have heard engine sound like that missing on several cylinders. Could even go as deep as a bad coil driver in the ECU but you will have to see what the scanner shows for starts. Looks like it died as soon as you touched the pedal.
Hook up a good scan tool so you can see if any sensors are not working. Check output of each coil while running. I have heard engine sound like that missing on several cylinders. Could even go as deep as a bad coil driver in the ECU but you will have to see what the scanner shows for starts. Looks like it died as soon as you touched the pedal.
Originally Posted by Scorpi0
I believe the RPM reading is picked up by the crankshaft position sensor. But if that was inop then the engine wouldnt even start. U probably have a few other issues that need to be sorted out first.
We traced the gauge cluster issue to the ac controls not being plugged in (who knew). as far as motor issues we have not made significant progress however I can get the car to creep forward at idle just barely letting off the clutch. It does seem to be that the clutch only operates sometimes, maybe a master cylinder issue? I highly doubt that would have any impact on the motor running.
Did the previous owner tell you if the car EVER ran?
I would start by pulling and inspecting the plugs, it's very easy to get the coil pack harness wires switched up so verify the correct harness by looking at the COLOR OF THE WIRES, it's all in the FSM.
Did the previous owner tell you if the car EVER ran?
I would start by pulling and inspecting the plugs, it's very easy to get the coil pack harness wires switched up so verify the correct harness by looking at the COLOR OF THE WIRES, it's all in the FSM.
So I figured out a few things about the car. Firstly, it has exchanged hands roughly 5 times that were not listed on the title since Febuary. The last person whose name is on the title is 100% sure that the car ran and drove before she sold it. Secondly... well, let me just paste in what I sent over at my350z.
We pulled the fuel pump, disassembled it and found about an inch of dirt like material just below the filter. It turns out this car had some serious buildup in the gas tank that caused the fuel issues. There was still DIESEL in the tank (yes you read that right) even after siphoning out all the brown colored fuel. While there was fuel pressure when the pump primed, there was not enough flow to the rails and as a result it leaned out really bad. This partially explains the reason that even with the throttle body off the car continued to "idle" at 500 RPM.
After this discovery I was worried about what the heads and pistons would look like so we pulled the motor to disassemble it. After taking the heads off the motor we discovered that the pistons had maybe 2 inches or so of travel on the drivers side bank (passengers side where I did the compression test was fine), and when fully disassembled we found that ALL connecting rods on the drivers side bank had sheared and stretched horribly. Obviously we bought another DE and have since swapped it in. The clutch issue was not caused by the master cylinder, in fact two flywheel bolts had snapped off and warped the clutch disk so bad that the clutch would not disengage, and would often stick as a result. The car passed all electrical tests with my mechanics Nissan diagnostic tool which is GREAT! New clutch has been swapped in, new fuel pump, new motor, and we fire the car today to check and see if everything comes back to life!
Well I wish I had good news for you guys. I spent all day up at the shop. After everything done mechanically to it we still had the EXACT same issues aas before. Obviously I plugged in my uprev and grabbed DTC but no codes showed up. I checked and realised that this car did not have a battery cover piece (not just the cover the whole trim that covers the IPDM and cabin air filter) and I could see straight down to the ECU. Fearing the worst I pulled the ECU and it was most certainly fried, most likely got water seeping inside of it. I got an ECU from an 04 g35 MT and had the BCM married to it. This is what I got from uprev BEFORE having the ECU married to the BCM.
DTC from first start with ECU **UNMARRIED**
After having the ECU married to the BCM I still had P1564 (NORMAL, no cruise control on this Z) and P0506 showing up, even after clearing the codes multiple times. I honestly have no idea what to do at this point, as of now I have a $7k paperweight in the shop and the ONLY thing I can think of is the flywheel is somehow f***ed and preventing the new motor from idling. Please, anything that anyone could suggest would be GREATLY appreciated. Even my mechanic has no idea what could be wrong.
Here is a video that I took compiling all these issues. Keep in mind these videos are of the car with a new ECU and a new DE:
