I have an ‘05 sedan, six speed, relatively low miles (8?k), and not modified except for springs. When I drove it, it said “REV” on the cluster. Long story but it has mostly sat for eight years. At that time (8 yrs ago) a new key and fob were necessary. It was driven about 10k until about 1 1/2 years ago to its current spot. It has not started since then. 1) It will crank and run on starter fluid. 2) No codes or check engine light.3) Immobilizer light functions as normal. 4) Last I checked (6mos?), I changed the gas and had about 55 lbs of fuel pressure in the engine bay. 5) I changed the crank position sensor even though it had a pulse before.

I am a newby here-thanks- mostly work on old cars. I did try FB page and did get some good advice. I am no pro but would like to do the work to solve the problem.

Any help appreciated!!

 

I would start with an OBD2 scanner to check for hidden codes.

Next verifying the tachometer moves while you crank the engine. If not it's probably the crank position sensor.

Then pull and inspect the plugs, be careful of getting the coil pack harnesses mixed up, if you do I've made a few posts with the wire colors for which pack is which. Should be able to dig those up with a google search, if not then ask and I'll dig them out of the service manual again.

While the plugs are out put one back into a coil pack, hold it 1/4" from the intake plenum with a leather gloved hand, or tied into position. Now crank the engine and visually check for spark.

If the plugs look good and you have tach/crank signal then check fuel pressure. There is no fuel port so you need to install an aftermarket one on the passenger/right side fuel damper, Z1 makes a quality sandwich adapter.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rt-p-9160.html

My gut feeling is you lost the fuel pump, I'm fairly confident you have spark since it will run on starting fluid, this also makes me fairly confident that you have a functional crank and cam sensor. However all those items should be troubleshooted to verify

 

Back at it after 8 months.cleric670 ( no longer here?) thought it might be fuel pump. I had 50+ lbs of pressure. Getting ready to drain the fuel again and wondering if the pump could have pressure but still not getting fuel? Again, no start and no codes., runs on either. TIA

 

After a good long crank pull the spark plugs and see if they're wet with gas.

Did you do things like verify the tach moves while cranking?

 

Thanks for the reply No fuel on the spark plugs. The tach does not move. I checked an ‘02 3.5 in a QA4 and it did not move either. Should the tach move? I posted a video on the g35/g37 facebook page and tried to upload here.

 

Today I checked the fuel pressure and fuel flow. It has both at the fuel rail. Over 52 psi and “good” flow.

Tried reprograming the key because it had a 1615 code. I will try again tomorrow. Just cranks…

Also had a ecm P1065 code that has not come back after cleared.

Thanks!

 

P1615, car doesn't recognize the key. If you keep trying to start it you will eventually get P1610 lock mode and it won't even crank.

Your key transponder might have died but more likely the BCM just "forgot" the transponder ID.

P1065 is usually just a dead battery, or you have disconnected the battery recently. It should self-clear after a few good starts.

 

Thank you! I cleared the codes and now I have zero codes. I tried these two sequences also. The immobilizer flashes red and does not flash or light when cranking. Still puzzled.

 

Clearing the codes won't make the key start working again, it probably needs to be reprogrammed.

The second picture you posted is for programming the KEY FOB to unlock the door which is 100% unrelated to the NATS key transponder chip necessary to make the car start.

The NATS indicator light is off while cranking the engine? I was assuming it would be solid red when cranking since you had the DTC code for it.

 

Thanks again! I had the code initially with others. After clearing codes, it did come up once more when I tried a key off Amazon and programed by Ace hardware. That key did turn on the red light when cranking. I put that key away and cleared codes and went back to the first key-no codes now. I’m not even sure this is the issue. Any way to be sure it is or that maybe the ecu is the issue? Right now would like to eliminate 1)ECU, 2)Injectors, or 3)immobilizer as cause.