I've got an 06 Coupe MT with 93k miles on the clock, and I've had this issue where I've been coasting down the road (in gear, clutch depressed) and the car can barely idle. Recently it has escalated, and has outright died while coasting twice in the past week (once at about 25mph, the most recent at around 45mph). I don't have any CELs, and I don't have any problems if I'm idling in gear (clutch depressed), idling in neutral, or coasting in neutral. Car isn't low on power if I'm actively cruising or accelerating, and I'm not low on fuel (both times I was at or above 1/2 tank). Any ideas? I'm thinking possibly some sort of rotational sensor or something in the transmission electronics?

 

Does it feel like there's a lag in power when you're in like 3rd gear and stomp it wide open throttle?

If so then it's probably a big vacuum leak.

 

No, the car drives fine any time I give it throttle, but I've been messing with the car trying to find out what triggers the stalling, and I've narrowed it down to having nothing do do with the anything past the engine itself. I've found that the issue specifically happens if I rapidly switch from load to no load on the engine, as this has also happened with the car in neutral (since I started testing). I've been talking to my coworkers at the dealership I work at and they seem to think the engine is leaning out on decel, likely due to the bumper mounted CAI combined with this car's asinine level of Rev hang. I'll probably remove and clean the throttle body, and MAF, and relearn the throttle to the ECM, but I'll likely have to baby the car until I can finish installing my bolt ons and get it properly tuned.

But thanks for checking in, I posted this on another forum and you're the first response to either.

 

Realtime OBD2 scan the short term fuel trim to see if it's actually lean or not, these engines have a MASSIVE leeway for fuel management but even the most responsive fuel management in the world isn't going to be able to calibrate for a big vacuum leak.

If you know someone that has a halloween smoke machine then you can smoke test the intake yourself to make sure everything is good.

 

I work in parts at a dealership, so proper diagnosis won't be hard to find, it's just a matter of finding a good time to bring it in and have someone look at it. As it is, I typically work between 4-6 days a week, but my schedule over the past two weeks has be ridiculous, and won't improve until the middle of the month. But I will have it hooked up for live data recording and also have the vacuum system tested.

 

Have a 2004 Coupe AT with 115k with similar problem. Here is story: got Code P0335 and had to replace both camshaft pos sensors, and also connector on passenger side. Had to take off throttle body (TB) to get to driver side sensor. Now the car stalls when I go into coast and gets worse as the car heats up; there is no code when this happens. To restart have to depress thottle pedal. Tried to relearn TB but did not work. May do it again as this is a tricky procedure. Is TB bad?

 

No, as I said before, the car drives fine aside from coasting in neutral/clutch-in. I've chalked it up to a combination of the intake mods installed and driver error, lol. I ended up selling the car recently anyways, as I need a newer truck to replace my old 2nd gen Dakota.

 

P0335 isn't the cam sensors, unless you replaced them with either Hitachi or Nissan Genuine Parts OEM sensors then put your old ones back in. These cars are notorious for misbehaving with all aftermarket sensors.

That code is for the CRANK position sensor. Again, use only Hitachi or an OEM Nissan sensor, and those eBay sellers that claim they are selling OEM Nissan Genuine Parts for like $25 aren't actually OEM sensors, they're knockoffs. I recommend Hitachi because it's cheaper and they are the OEM manufacturer anwyays.

Any time the throttle body is unplugged you MUST do the throttle closed recalibration. It's very simple, don't touch the gas pedal, turn the ignition ON, turn the ignition OFF, go stand at the engine with your head next to the throttle body and after 10 seconds you should hear the motor actuate. If you have a hard time hearing it then remove the intake tube, you can watch and hear and it's a lot louder with the tube off.

I also recommend doing the idle air recalibration after everything else is done. That one is the pedal dance you're probably struggling with. You MUST USE A STOPWATCH to accurately track the seconds.

 

Thanks for help! I realize I got mixed up with internet info and thought the cam sensors were the same thing. But the P0335 is apparently for the crank sensor that you access from underneath the car, that is correct?

 

Yep it's at the bottom right where the bellhousing and engine mate together a little on the driver side, I would inspect it first to make sure it's not just damaged wiring since it does tend to catch a lot of road debris.

Single 10mm bolt, torque to 85 INCH/lbs

 

Thanks again for help. Replaced it and back to normal. Cannot believe there are 3 sensors. One thing I noticed during this repair was that replacing the passenger side cam shaft sensor got rid of "bogging down" that I was experiencing when I floored the pedal. So that was not wasted effort. But ultimately the real problem was the crank shaft sensor.

 

Awesome glad it's all working.

3 sensors is nothing, the rev-up engine has 5 both intake cams, both exhaust cams, and the crank sensor.