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dinged up non-rev up 2005 6mt (pretty much stock other than some scuffed AODHANs)
ABS/VDC/SLIP/CEL Lights All On. 9 codes total.
So I've been driving this '05 g35 mt since around March of last year. Had a welded diff, swapped it for a regular one, replaced sensors and stuff. Lights have never gone away. Just had it scanned by a friend who has a shop and these all showed up:
p1273
c1106
c1145
c1146
c1708
c1709
c1710
c1711
u1000
u1001
Where do I even start with this? Might actually have to get it checked out by the dealership.
dinged up non-rev up 2005 6mt (pretty much stock other than some scuffed AODHANs)
Originally Posted by 2003G35stock
With that many errors it sounds like something core to the errors..
For example, a bad harness, a bad ECU, things like that.
I mean, this is sensors, ABS, and CAN line errors.
Is it possible there is the wrong ECU in there? Can you scan the computer and see if the VIN matches the car?
Man, I just checked and sure enough, the VIN on the ECU doesn't match the VIN on the chassis. At least that's what the OBD2 adapter tab on the Torque app says.
edit 1: to add to this, the VIN on the chassis is for an '05 while the VIN on the ECU is for an '04
Last edited by cabatchi; Aug 15, 2022 at 11:39 PM.
Well, at least I believe you have the root of the problem. So now you have the fun job. I think you have two possible options.
1 - to look up what should be the correct computer call the dealership and give them your chassis vin number, they will tell you the exact model of the computer that was supposed to be there. Unfortunately they don't make new ones, but you can get used ones off of Ebay. Then you can rewrite the ECU VIN to match your chassis. Now, I don't know if your engine was also replaced, so take the time to make sure it does also appear to be the correct engine for the car, whether revup or not, etc. I think when you put in the ECU, you will also need to re-pair your car keys. Not a big deal, but something to be aware of
or
2 - It is believed that you can often recode/reflash the current ECU to possibly work, if it's within a range. I don't know the range but I can tell you in my experience so far, and it is limited, I couldn't get this to work without errors still coming up (I kept getting CAN bus errors in my case each time I have attempted this, but it could also be I am an idiot and simply not knowledgable on the right way to do this or the right tool that make this option work.
In may case, I simply bought what the dealership said was the perfect match, and redid he VIN to match. Others can chime in as to what has worked for them. I've only done this once so again I am not a font of knowledge, just giving you what I know.
dinged up non-rev up 2005 6mt (pretty much stock other than some scuffed AODHANs)
Originally Posted by 2003G35stock
Well, at least I believe you have the root of the problem. So now you have the fun job. I think you have two possible options.
1 - to look up what should be the correct computer call the dealership and give them your chassis vin number, they will tell you the exact model of the computer that was supposed to be there. Unfortunately they don't make new ones, but you can get used ones off of Ebay. Then you can rewrite the ECU VIN to match your chassis. Now, I don't know if your engine was also replaced, so take the time to make sure it does also appear to be the correct engine for the car, whether revup or not, etc. I think when you put in the ECU, you will also need to re-pair your car keys. Not a big deal, but something to be aware of
or
2 - It is believed that you can often recode/reflash the current ECU to possibly work, if it's within a range. I don't know the range but I can tell you in my experience so far, and it is limited, I couldn't get this to work without errors still coming up (I kept getting CAN bus errors in my case each time I have attempted this, but it could also be I am an idiot and simply not knowledgable on the right way to do this or the right tool that make this option work.
In may case, I simply bought what the dealership said was the perfect match, and redid he VIN to match. Others can chime in as to what has worked for them. I've only done this once so again I am not a font of knowledge, just giving you what I know.
thanks man, you do not know how much I appreciate this info! Much love. Will be calling the dealership soon. Not sure if the engine is a rev-up or not as the guy who sold it to me bought the car with a blown engine (he said he swapped in a rev-up but who knows)
Good point. There is a person on here seymore4 who does coding work on the ECU. He would probably have an idea on how to recode your current ECU if it's possible.
Since it had a welded diff and the VDC/ABS stuff disabled this was DEFINITELY a drift car.
They might have just cut the orange wire on the VDC computer, normally people just put in a switch to disable the computer when they want to go drifting (the button on the dash doesn't FULLY disable the system).
Oh man, nice thinking cleric, it never crossed my mind someone would intentionally cut a wire, but sure, if you didn't care and you were going drifting. I guess I didn't realize how popular these are for drift cars.
dinged up non-rev up 2005 6mt (pretty much stock other than some scuffed AODHANs)
Originally Posted by cleric670
Since it had a welded diff and the VDC/ABS stuff disabled this was DEFINITELY a drift car.
They might have just cut the orange wire on the VDC computer, normally people just put in a switch to disable the computer when they want to go drifting (the button on the dash doesn't FULLY disable the system).
where is the wire located? under the console right? really appreciate you guys giving all this info. I called my local Infiniti service outlet (Roseville) and they said they can't rewrite the VIN to match the chassis :/.
I've always thought that the wire had been cut but removing the console trim is such a pain in the a$$
Orange wire, I believe you should see it under the dash, I've attached a pic someone else took of where it leads. Check there and then back to the fuse box for the 40amp fuse (I'm pretty sure it's 40amps). In this picture, the person was installing in a switch to disable it rather than just cut it.