Oil pan drain plug bolt slip
#1
Oil pan drain plug bolt slip
Hi
I changed my oil a couple of days ago and the oil pan drips because the drain plug slips. I tighten it to a point that it doesnt slip and used a new crush washer. I did not overtighten at all, and did not use a torque wrench etc. Just used a regular socket wrench.
Is there a temporary fix like a heat-resistant sealant that I can apply there to prevent the continuous oil drip which happens when the engine runs ? Like I want to "seal" or "caulk" the bolt to the oil pan for the next 5000 mile run so that I can postpone the oil pan replacement to the future and still be able to use the car now.
Please help.
Thanks
VK
I changed my oil a couple of days ago and the oil pan drips because the drain plug slips. I tighten it to a point that it doesnt slip and used a new crush washer. I did not overtighten at all, and did not use a torque wrench etc. Just used a regular socket wrench.
Is there a temporary fix like a heat-resistant sealant that I can apply there to prevent the continuous oil drip which happens when the engine runs ? Like I want to "seal" or "caulk" the bolt to the oil pan for the next 5000 mile run so that I can postpone the oil pan replacement to the future and still be able to use the car now.
Please help.
Thanks
VK
#2
Join Date: May 2017
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Just get a new lower oil pan, it's a super easy fix.
I strongly recommend using a torque wrench so you don't also strip out the next one, that's the primary purpose for a torque wrench, to keep bolts from getting stripped out.
You could probably coat both sides of the crush washer with some Permatex Ultra Grey RTV sealant as a band-aid fix. My biggest concern though is that the oil plug will loosen and dump your crankcase since it's not actually tight. I would just replace it since you can get them for around $50 usually.
I strongly recommend using a torque wrench so you don't also strip out the next one, that's the primary purpose for a torque wrench, to keep bolts from getting stripped out.
You could probably coat both sides of the crush washer with some Permatex Ultra Grey RTV sealant as a band-aid fix. My biggest concern though is that the oil plug will loosen and dump your crankcase since it's not actually tight. I would just replace it since you can get them for around $50 usually.
#3
#4
I took your advice cleric670 and did the oil pan change. it was super easy. Here is a small post with images I wrote up in case anyone else needs to do it in the future: https://vkmotorsports.com/blog/2022/...placement.html
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Urbanengineer (11-06-2022)
#6
I took your advice cleric670 and did the oil pan change. it was super easy. Here is a small post with images I wrote up in case anyone else needs to do it in the future: https://vkmotorsports.com/blog/2022/...placement.html
#7
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I've seen twice in my life where someone actually FILLED the crankcase with oil.
Both were at lube shops, new technicians not watching the quart counter on the filler. Both made a gigantic mess. One of them they actually tried to start the motor and hydrolocked it because it sucked a ton of oil into the intake through the PCV and filled a cylinder.
Both were at lube shops, new technicians not watching the quart counter on the filler. Both made a gigantic mess. One of them they actually tried to start the motor and hydrolocked it because it sucked a ton of oil into the intake through the PCV and filled a cylinder.
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