Oil pan drain plug bolt slip
Oil pan drain plug bolt slip
Hi
I changed my oil a couple of days ago and the oil pan drips because the drain plug slips. I tighten it to a point that it doesnt slip and used a new crush washer. I did not overtighten at all, and did not use a torque wrench etc. Just used a regular socket wrench.
Is there a temporary fix like a heat-resistant sealant that I can apply there to prevent the continuous oil drip which happens when the engine runs ? Like I want to "seal" or "caulk" the bolt to the oil pan for the next 5000 mile run so that I can postpone the oil pan replacement to the future and still be able to use the car now.
Please help.
Thanks
VK
I changed my oil a couple of days ago and the oil pan drips because the drain plug slips. I tighten it to a point that it doesnt slip and used a new crush washer. I did not overtighten at all, and did not use a torque wrench etc. Just used a regular socket wrench.
Is there a temporary fix like a heat-resistant sealant that I can apply there to prevent the continuous oil drip which happens when the engine runs ? Like I want to "seal" or "caulk" the bolt to the oil pan for the next 5000 mile run so that I can postpone the oil pan replacement to the future and still be able to use the car now.
Please help.
Thanks
VK
Just get a new lower oil pan, it's a super easy fix.
I strongly recommend using a torque wrench so you don't also strip out the next one, that's the primary purpose for a torque wrench, to keep bolts from getting stripped out.
You could probably coat both sides of the crush washer with some Permatex Ultra Grey RTV sealant as a band-aid fix. My biggest concern though is that the oil plug will loosen and dump your crankcase since it's not actually tight. I would just replace it since you can get them for around $50 usually.
I strongly recommend using a torque wrench so you don't also strip out the next one, that's the primary purpose for a torque wrench, to keep bolts from getting stripped out.
You could probably coat both sides of the crush washer with some Permatex Ultra Grey RTV sealant as a band-aid fix. My biggest concern though is that the oil plug will loosen and dump your crankcase since it's not actually tight. I would just replace it since you can get them for around $50 usually.
thank you. i will order the lower oil pan and use the grey sealant until the pan arrives. this is not my primary car, so it may be a good enough hack for a few days. I think i will order a new drain plug too since maybe the bolt sucks as well.
I took your advice cleric670 and did the oil pan change. it was super easy. Here is a small post with images I wrote up in case anyone else needs to do it in the future: https://vkmotorsports.com/blog/2022/...placement.html
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Rhode Island
One owner 2004 G35 Coupe 6MT
I took your advice cleric670 and did the oil pan change. it was super easy. Here is a small post with images I wrote up in case anyone else needs to do it in the future: https://vkmotorsports.com/blog/2022/...placement.html
I've seen twice in my life where someone actually FILLED the crankcase with oil.
Both were at lube shops, new technicians not watching the quart counter on the filler. Both made a gigantic mess. One of them they actually tried to start the motor and hydrolocked it because it sucked a ton of oil into the intake through the PCV and filled a cylinder.
Both were at lube shops, new technicians not watching the quart counter on the filler. Both made a gigantic mess. One of them they actually tried to start the motor and hydrolocked it because it sucked a ton of oil into the intake through the PCV and filled a cylinder.
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Yes, I filled 5 quarts. I fixed my error in the blog post. thank you for pointing it out.
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