Swapped our door window switch and now the window no longer opens and closes a tiny bit when opening and closing the door. I put the old switch back in and the auto feature returns. Do I need to hit the reset button on the window for the new switch or is this an issue with the switch itself?

 

If it's an aftermarket switch, they don't have the auto door-drop feature for coupes. I remember seeing a warning on one website about that. That feature is built into the driver door switch computer, which the aftermarket folks haven't reverse engineered.

OEM switches are hella expensive new. I was lucky to find one for my 2006 coupe on PartSouq.com for $87.75 shipped. It was one of two that were left in stock. All the other Japanese discounted OEM sites had none in stock. Otherwise the usual Nissan/Infiniti vendors were showing $420+.

Your next option is used on eBay. Be careful out there, and good luck.

 

Well, lucky you. PartSouq still has them, and they've re-stocked. There are currently three available at the same price I paid (your shipping might be different...about $15 for me).

https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=25401CD02D

 

Whats wrong with your original switch? You can take it apart and most likely be able to fix it yourself.

 

The encoder data in the switch probably just needs to be recalibrated. Follow these steps in the FSM to recalibrate the window switch.

The reset/calibration button is located on the window motor itself, easy to get to. Take off the door card, then the inner metal cover, motor is now accessible, the reset button is behind a little black sticker that covers the hole. There are three of those stickers I think, you want one of the small ones. They have an adhesive back to them so you can stick it back on when finished.

 

So to clarify, any coupe switch oem or after market switch will work?

I seemed hard to believe that that functionality would actually be in the switch itself.

Thanks for the clarification.

 

How it works is the motor is sending a pulse of signals (an encoder) every time it spins around while opening or closing the window. The window switch has this pulse count memorized once it's calibrated, it knows EXACTLY where full open and full closed is by counting those encoder pulses. When you hit the auto up/down button it just runs the window motor until it gets the correct pulse count to hit top or bottom.

Your new window switch doesn't have this correct pulse count, so it needs to be recalibrated. Once you have that button on the motor accessible, MANUALLY (i.e. NOT using the auto up/down) roll the window all the way to the top, the door must be closed to do this. Once the window is manually rolled all the way up hold down the recalibration button on the motor, then MANUALLY roll the window all the way down. This sets the switch encoder counter at zero, release the calibration button. Now MANUALLY roll the window all the way to the top again, the switch counts the encoder pulses, now it knows exactly where top and bottom are.

Open the door to take the car back out of calibration mode, you should see the window drop down 1/2 inch when you open the door, with the door open reach over on the B-pillar and press the door closed switch and couple times to make sure it lifts/lowers the window 1/2" properly, the window needs to do this to clear the sash on the roofline between the A and B pillar, it tucks up UNDER the sash when the door is closed.

Now test the window auto function, it should work properly.

 

As for aftermarket switches not working, I can't guarantee that, I've personally never seen switches that didn't have the complete functionality. There is a CPU inside the switch enclosure, I would imagine if it was missing components it wouldn't be able to talk to the BCM (they use a serial communication between both door switches and the BCM). Then other functions like holding down the unlock button on the key fob to roll down your windows wouldn't work correctly either.

The BCM can command the window switches to roll up/down, Nissan only added OEM functionality on the car to roll them down though (from the fob). The door lock cylinder lock/unlock hold to roll up/down is different in that it is actually physically wired in series to the window button, it's the same as physically hitting the button in manual mode.

I have seen aftermarket window motors that were missing the recalibration button though.