Engine Rebuild Questions
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Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 205
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G35 6MT “Brembo Car”
Unless you are boosting it, the 8.8 pistons are a terrible choice. If you have the money, go for it. Just make sure you have the block completely machined and gone over, as well as the heads. As far as being “worth it”, only you can say that. Is $5-$10,000 worth it to you to have a fresh new higher output engine? What’s worth it to me is completely different than what it’s worth it to you
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Registered User
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
Base G35
Unless you are boosting it, the 8.8 pistons are a terrible choice. If you have the money, go for it. Just make sure you have the block completely machined and gone over, as well as the heads. As far as being “worth it”, only you can say that. Is $5-$10,000 worth it to you to have a fresh new higher output engine? What’s worth it to me is completely different than what it’s worth it to you
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 205
Likes: 65
G35 6MT “Brembo Car”
I’m not trying to offend you, so don’t take this the wrong way, but it’s pretty obvious that you are very inexperienced in this area. That list of parts for your engine build is the most mismatched set of parts you could possibly choose.
You’ve got crazy expensive top-of-the-line head studs for a 1,000 hp build when you could use stock head bolts and never have an issue. Not sure why you plan on doing a standalone ECU for a build that is very simple and would not require one at all. And your choice of pistons is for a forced induction build, you would never use that low of compression on a NA motor build, those pistons along with that cam would be an absolutely horrible running engine.
Building an engine is substantially more than just ordering some parts and stuffing them in the engine. If you’re gonna do a full rebuild there’s a lot of machine work that needs to be done to that block to make sure it’s ready for the new parts, not to mention you really should send your heads in and have them gone through. And building an engine has a ton of critical clearances that need to be checked and fit down to the thousandths of an inch to make sure there’s proper oil flow and clearances aren’t too big or small and the rings fit properly. Not only does this require the knowledge to do it properly, but it requires the proper tools.
Then there is the fact that there is a ton more parts that you are going to need if you’re doing a full engine rebuild. You’re going to need a full timing chain set, water pump, tons of gaskets, should do new sensors and harnesses, etc. Sure you can get by without doing some of that stuff, but if you’re gonna spend that much money it doesn’t make sense to skimp on the build.
Basically, I would throw that entire parts list that you have out the window and reevaluate what you’re trying to do and put a new list of parts together. Throwing crazy expensive parts at a build that doesn’t need it will not give you any more horsepower or longevity, it’s just a waste of money.
If you really still want to try to rebuild this engine I would plan on $5000-$10,000 for parts and machining.
You’ve got crazy expensive top-of-the-line head studs for a 1,000 hp build when you could use stock head bolts and never have an issue. Not sure why you plan on doing a standalone ECU for a build that is very simple and would not require one at all. And your choice of pistons is for a forced induction build, you would never use that low of compression on a NA motor build, those pistons along with that cam would be an absolutely horrible running engine.
Building an engine is substantially more than just ordering some parts and stuffing them in the engine. If you’re gonna do a full rebuild there’s a lot of machine work that needs to be done to that block to make sure it’s ready for the new parts, not to mention you really should send your heads in and have them gone through. And building an engine has a ton of critical clearances that need to be checked and fit down to the thousandths of an inch to make sure there’s proper oil flow and clearances aren’t too big or small and the rings fit properly. Not only does this require the knowledge to do it properly, but it requires the proper tools.
Then there is the fact that there is a ton more parts that you are going to need if you’re doing a full engine rebuild. You’re going to need a full timing chain set, water pump, tons of gaskets, should do new sensors and harnesses, etc. Sure you can get by without doing some of that stuff, but if you’re gonna spend that much money it doesn’t make sense to skimp on the build.
Basically, I would throw that entire parts list that you have out the window and reevaluate what you’re trying to do and put a new list of parts together. Throwing crazy expensive parts at a build that doesn’t need it will not give you any more horsepower or longevity, it’s just a waste of money.
If you really still want to try to rebuild this engine I would plan on $5000-$10,000 for parts and machining.
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
Base G35
I’m not trying to offend you, so don’t take this the wrong way, but it’s pretty obvious that you are very inexperienced in this area. That list of parts for your engine build is the most mismatched set of parts you could possibly choose.
You’ve got crazy expensive top-of-the-line head studs for a 1,000 hp build when you could use stock head bolts and never have an issue. Not sure why you plan on doing a standalone ECU for a build that is very simple and would not require one at all. And your choice of pistons is for a forced induction build, you would never use that low of compression on a NA motor build, those pistons along with that cam would be an absolutely horrible running engine.
Building an engine is substantially more than just ordering some parts and stuffing them in the engine. If you’re gonna do a full rebuild there’s a lot of machine work that needs to be done to that block to make sure it’s ready for the new parts, not to mention you really should send your heads in and have them gone through. And building an engine has a ton of critical clearances that need to be checked and fit down to the thousandths of an inch to make sure there’s proper oil flow and clearances aren’t too big or small and the rings fit properly. Not only does this require the knowledge to do it properly, but it requires the proper tools.
Then there is the fact that there is a ton more parts that you are going to need if you’re doing a full engine rebuild. You’re going to need a full timing chain set, water pump, tons of gaskets, should do new sensors and harnesses, etc. Sure you can get by without doing some of that stuff, but if you’re gonna spend that much money it doesn’t make sense to skimp on the build.
Basically, I would throw that entire parts list that you have out the window and reevaluate what you’re trying to do and put a new list of parts together. Throwing crazy expensive parts at a build that doesn’t need it will not give you any more horsepower or longevity, it’s just a waste of money.
If you really still want to try to rebuild this engine I would plan on $5000-$10,000 for parts and machining.
You’ve got crazy expensive top-of-the-line head studs for a 1,000 hp build when you could use stock head bolts and never have an issue. Not sure why you plan on doing a standalone ECU for a build that is very simple and would not require one at all. And your choice of pistons is for a forced induction build, you would never use that low of compression on a NA motor build, those pistons along with that cam would be an absolutely horrible running engine.
Building an engine is substantially more than just ordering some parts and stuffing them in the engine. If you’re gonna do a full rebuild there’s a lot of machine work that needs to be done to that block to make sure it’s ready for the new parts, not to mention you really should send your heads in and have them gone through. And building an engine has a ton of critical clearances that need to be checked and fit down to the thousandths of an inch to make sure there’s proper oil flow and clearances aren’t too big or small and the rings fit properly. Not only does this require the knowledge to do it properly, but it requires the proper tools.
Then there is the fact that there is a ton more parts that you are going to need if you’re doing a full engine rebuild. You’re going to need a full timing chain set, water pump, tons of gaskets, should do new sensors and harnesses, etc. Sure you can get by without doing some of that stuff, but if you’re gonna spend that much money it doesn’t make sense to skimp on the build.
Basically, I would throw that entire parts list that you have out the window and reevaluate what you’re trying to do and put a new list of parts together. Throwing crazy expensive parts at a build that doesn’t need it will not give you any more horsepower or longevity, it’s just a waste of money.
If you really still want to try to rebuild this engine I would plan on $5000-$10,000 for parts and machining.
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