Ok Big Prob!
Ok Big Prob!
ok guys need help sorry have a sedan, but more peeps in coupe forums...bought a used 2003 battery keeps dying on me so i bought a new battery,,,,,took it to the dealer they said battery and alternator tested fine, when i leave it sit for 3-6 days the battery is half dead and it just clicks ,,,when i try to start it,,,i see some guys have had problems with the cigarette lighters , like leaving a radar detector plugged in (which ive been doing) WHAT SHOULD I DO????
known infiniti problem? Eh.... dont think so. I have a hardwired radar that I never cut the power to on the actual detector and have never had a prob. Did you try to install the new battery? If you did, any change?
sorry just pissed off , the dealer should fix this problem under warranty right its not just like a powertrain warranty till 60,000 miles right, im just gonna leave the car there for like 6 days and let them see the car will be dead when they try to start it,,,there is only 1 dealer near me thats why im taking it there!.....thanks for your help !
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Sounds Like a short from what you wrote.
First check for a short. To do this, you will need a test light.
Take the negative battery cable off and place the test light in series with the connection. Meaning, place one end of the test light to -of the battery the other side of the test light to the -of the battery cable. If the light is lit ... This means power is being drawn from the battery. At first the test light will light for the clock in the car.... Tap the test light prong against each other to turn the light off... and reconnect. If you still have a light... power is being drawn from the battery when the car is off ... killing the battery while it sits over time. "This is how you check for a short".
Second check & know 100% that the Bat, & Alt are working right.
If power is being drawn from the battery it could loose the charge. First, if you know the battery is good (a fully charged battery should be 12.6 volts) make sure you start with a charged battery.
Load test the battery with a load tester ... Under load, you should load the battery half the cold cranking amps for 14 seconds. If the Battery does not drop below 9.6 volts ... The battery is good.
Second: Make sure the Alternator does not have an intermittent problem. The first sign of a bad internal voltage regulator is a problem like you explained.
If you can hook up a "DVOM" Digital Volt Ohm Meter and monitor the charging voltage. A working alt. should be charging at 14.2 volts.
From what you have told... I would guess... & only guess... First rule of thumb is never diagnose a car from a desk...
But guessing I would bet the Tech misdiagnosed your Alternator... Sounds like a bad voltage regulator.
If intermittent... it would be hard to detect if these steps are not followed...
Good Luck
First check for a short. To do this, you will need a test light.
Take the negative battery cable off and place the test light in series with the connection. Meaning, place one end of the test light to -of the battery the other side of the test light to the -of the battery cable. If the light is lit ... This means power is being drawn from the battery. At first the test light will light for the clock in the car.... Tap the test light prong against each other to turn the light off... and reconnect. If you still have a light... power is being drawn from the battery when the car is off ... killing the battery while it sits over time. "This is how you check for a short".
Second check & know 100% that the Bat, & Alt are working right.
If power is being drawn from the battery it could loose the charge. First, if you know the battery is good (a fully charged battery should be 12.6 volts) make sure you start with a charged battery.
Load test the battery with a load tester ... Under load, you should load the battery half the cold cranking amps for 14 seconds. If the Battery does not drop below 9.6 volts ... The battery is good.
Second: Make sure the Alternator does not have an intermittent problem. The first sign of a bad internal voltage regulator is a problem like you explained.
If you can hook up a "DVOM" Digital Volt Ohm Meter and monitor the charging voltage. A working alt. should be charging at 14.2 volts.
From what you have told... I would guess... & only guess... First rule of thumb is never diagnose a car from a desk...
But guessing I would bet the Tech misdiagnosed your Alternator... Sounds like a bad voltage regulator.
If intermittent... it would be hard to detect if these steps are not followed...
Good Luck
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Machine Head
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Mar 16, 2016 08:55 PM



