Loss of Power as it gets HOTTER in Texas
#2
1% power loss per 11F increase, as the air density drops 1%.
Also summer protective software [kicks in] as fuel/air/coolant temperature increase above nominal 70F/70F/176-184F.
Move to cooler climate or redesign entire vehicle...........use less AF concentration and Redline wetter water. Larger radiator to increase peak reserve. Some way to decrease air temperature going into engine. Larger oil sump [Stillen] to increase capacity and drop oil a few degrees.
Also summer protective software [kicks in] as fuel/air/coolant temperature increase above nominal 70F/70F/176-184F.
Move to cooler climate or redesign entire vehicle...........use less AF concentration and Redline wetter water. Larger radiator to increase peak reserve. Some way to decrease air temperature going into engine. Larger oil sump [Stillen] to increase capacity and drop oil a few degrees.
#3
I'm in West Texas, so yeh, definately feeling the heat... ...as usual.
You could do the normal stuff to reduce the amount of heat underhood (heat shielding, header coating, etc.) but you simply can't negate the power loss when the intake air is so hot and thin. It sucks, but rest easy knowing that your small power loss pales when compared to what the forced-induction folks are losing when the mercury climbs. When you're N/A, you usually think you're feeling a loss (which you are). With forced induction, there's no question in your mind that you've lost power to the heat.
As I said, I'm in West Texas. We see several months around 100 (+/- 5 degrees) with several more in the mid to upper 80's. Sure, we get some cold winters (which was great with a turbo car!), but most of the time it's hot. This is the main reason I'm staying naturally aspirated with this car. 100+ degree weather is hard enough on the car without having to contend with a turbo cooking the motor as well.
Now, if I was in a colder climate... ... .
You could do the normal stuff to reduce the amount of heat underhood (heat shielding, header coating, etc.) but you simply can't negate the power loss when the intake air is so hot and thin. It sucks, but rest easy knowing that your small power loss pales when compared to what the forced-induction folks are losing when the mercury climbs. When you're N/A, you usually think you're feeling a loss (which you are). With forced induction, there's no question in your mind that you've lost power to the heat.
As I said, I'm in West Texas. We see several months around 100 (+/- 5 degrees) with several more in the mid to upper 80's. Sure, we get some cold winters (which was great with a turbo car!), but most of the time it's hot. This is the main reason I'm staying naturally aspirated with this car. 100+ degree weather is hard enough on the car without having to contend with a turbo cooking the motor as well.
Now, if I was in a colder climate... ... .
#5
Did I mention that I hate Texas?
Been stationed here 7 years and finally have orders that will put this godforsaken state in the rearview. As far as I know the only thing you can do about power loss due to heat down here is call the moving truck..
It has benefits (although I can't think of any) but NOTHING compensates for our 7 month summers and 5 month spring/winter/fall.
The only power loss I've noticed is the one in my a$$ when I go running outside. It was freaking 96 degrees on the airfield yesterday and it isn't even June yet.
BRING THE MOVERS! I'M READY TO GO!
Been stationed here 7 years and finally have orders that will put this godforsaken state in the rearview. As far as I know the only thing you can do about power loss due to heat down here is call the moving truck..
It has benefits (although I can't think of any) but NOTHING compensates for our 7 month summers and 5 month spring/winter/fall.
The only power loss I've noticed is the one in my a$$ when I go running outside. It was freaking 96 degrees on the airfield yesterday and it isn't even June yet.
BRING THE MOVERS! I'M READY TO GO!
#6
Where in Texas, Gee?
And pratik, lol, you're right. I ONLY buy summer performance tires, usually that have some good wet-traction qualities. But we do get snow usually once a year. Sucks on those summer tires, but what are a few days or a week, right?
I sure had a blast with my 325HP turbo, AWD '97 Eclipse GSX. It would break traction at all four corners, at the top of 1st gear, IN THE DRY! I have a pic somewhere of me throwing four rooster-tails through 2nd gear in the snow.
And pratik, lol, you're right. I ONLY buy summer performance tires, usually that have some good wet-traction qualities. But we do get snow usually once a year. Sucks on those summer tires, but what are a few days or a week, right?
I sure had a blast with my 325HP turbo, AWD '97 Eclipse GSX. It would break traction at all four corners, at the top of 1st gear, IN THE DRY! I have a pic somewhere of me throwing four rooster-tails through 2nd gear in the snow.
#7
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#10
Originally Posted by Q45tech
1% power loss per 11F increase, as the air density drops 1%.
Also summer protective software [kicks in] as fuel/air/coolant temperature increase above nominal 70F/70F/176-184F.
Move to cooler climate or redesign entire vehicle...........use less AF concentration and Redline wetter water. Larger radiator to increase peak reserve. Some way to decrease air temperature going into engine. Larger oil sump [Stillen] to increase capacity and drop oil a few degrees.
Also summer protective software [kicks in] as fuel/air/coolant temperature increase above nominal 70F/70F/176-184F.
Move to cooler climate or redesign entire vehicle...........use less AF concentration and Redline wetter water. Larger radiator to increase peak reserve. Some way to decrease air temperature going into engine. Larger oil sump [Stillen] to increase capacity and drop oil a few degrees.
Are you human?
#14
Originally Posted by Deang35c6
Originally Posted by Q45tech
1% power loss per 11F increase, as the air density drops 1%.
Also summer protective software [kicks in] as fuel/air/coolant temperature increase above nominal 70F/70F/176-184F.
Move to cooler climate or redesign entire vehicle...........use less AF concentration and Redline wetter water. Larger radiator to increase peak reserve. Some way to decrease air temperature going into engine. Larger oil sump [Stillen] to increase capacity and drop oil a few degrees.
Are you human?
1% power loss per 11F increase, as the air density drops 1%.
Also summer protective software [kicks in] as fuel/air/coolant temperature increase above nominal 70F/70F/176-184F.
Move to cooler climate or redesign entire vehicle...........use less AF concentration and Redline wetter water. Larger radiator to increase peak reserve. Some way to decrease air temperature going into engine. Larger oil sump [Stillen] to increase capacity and drop oil a few degrees.
Are you human?
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA