yeah reset the ecu and it will feel like it can't get enough.

 

I've recently been experiencing the same issue with feeling like the car begins to struggle around 5k. I have had the car for 4 years and have notice a significant change in power over the past month or two. My g is completely stock, occasionally when driving my vdc light or my engine service soon light will go on but turn off either while driving or when I start the car back up. I drive the car pretty aggressively so it should be used to using a good amount of power.

considered changing my camshaft position sensors, spark plugs, and using seafoam to clean the engine or manually clean the throttle body(which i'm trying to avoid). My G has 95k miles.

haven't done anything yet though, any advice would be nice.

 

Cam position sensors don't wear out, they're either working or they're not. If they weren't working you'd have a Service Engine light on and codes stored.

Get the maintenance up to date - spark plug & air filter condition will affect how it runs.

Since you said you've seen the SES light some on, have you checked for stored codes?

 

Haven't checked codes yet there are no lights that are continuously on but plan on doing that this weekend before I purchase any parts. I also think its the spark plug and air filter which was my initial guess but as I continued to search I found more information that also sounded like it could relate.

another strange symptom is stuttering on some start-ups.

Thanks again.

 

Catalytic converters have been known to clog up and inhibit performance too. There are quite a few options.

 

When looking for problems with the catalytic converter would it throw off a specific code I should look for when I scan it this weekend? Or is there a way I can visually see if thats what affecting my performance.

Thanks.

 

It would specifically feel like it has no umph from 4K to redline - because flow is restricted out of the engine.

 

It probably won't set a code for a clogged converter, unless the converter is not actually functioning, in which case the O2 sensors would tell the ECU that there's a problem.

The only way to check the converter without removing it would be to drill small holes before and after the converter and connect a pressure gauge to determine if there's a significant obstruction causing higher pressure before the converter. It's more time consuming to remove the converters and do a visual check but at least you aren't drilling holes in your exhaust.

There's a product called Cataclean that I've heard a few good reports about, although I have no personal experience with it. It won't help if the converter substrate has melted due to an overly rich mixture, but if the problem is just due to deposits on the converter substrate itself it could help.

 

Sounds great probably gonna do the regular maintenance first such as spark plugs and air filter, I know it's early but the way I drive it may be the problem I've also had the car since 52K so I know it hasn't been done before. If that doesn't solve the issue gonna look into the converter next.