What do I need to have?
#1
12-13-2005, 05:22 PM
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What do I need to have?
Hi, I want to buy a jack and a power tool for the wheel bolts what kind and brand of equipment should I get?
I want to be able to change/mount my tires.
I don't know anything about jacks and those tools so please be specific.
For the power tools, anything available that does not require those air pressure tanks?
thanks~
I want to be able to change/mount my tires.
I don't know anything about jacks and those tools so please be specific.
For the power tools, anything available that does not require those air pressure tanks?
thanks~
#2
12-13-2005, 08:27 PM
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#5
12-14-2005, 04:50 AM
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#6
12-14-2005, 07:41 AM
Originally Posted by y.dan
wut should i get then?
Doing everything by hand gives you a lot better feel. You are much less likely to ruin threads, overtighten, scratch a wheel, bark a lug nut or get a wheel off center or warped. And it won't take much more time or effort.
#7
12-14-2005, 07:55 AM
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#8
12-14-2005, 08:28 AM
Originally Posted by usual_suspect
Brittain is right, don't use an impact driver on your wheels. Use a good old cross wrench or 1/2" drive deep socket on a basic socket handle or ratchet to break the lugs loose, and maybe a speed wrench to spin them off and on if you're really in a hurry. For final tightening I recommend a click-style torque wrench with a 0-250 ft./lb. range (I buy nothing but Craftsman).
Doing everything by hand gives you a lot better feel. You are much less likely to ruin threads, overtighten, scratch a wheel, bark a lug nut or get a wheel off center or warped. And it won't take much more time or effort.
Doing everything by hand gives you a lot better feel. You are much less likely to ruin threads, overtighten, scratch a wheel, bark a lug nut or get a wheel off center or warped. And it won't take much more time or effort.
#9
12-14-2005, 09:33 AM
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#11
12-14-2005, 10:49 AM
Here's what I suggest. Get a breaker bar, 1/2" drive torque wrench, 21mm socket for the lug nuts and 22mm if you have wheel locks w/key, floor jack w/stands. The breaker bar, torque wrench & sockets you can get from Tirerack.com. For the floor jack & stand, you can go really cheap and get one from Walmart or Sears but I opted for the Harbor Freight aluminum racing one for ~$130. For me, it's worked well enough to change wheels and oil and has a low profile to fit under the center jack points between the wheels. If you were to do a lot of work on your car, you should consider getting a more expensive Craftsman jack.
To speed up the wheel change process I use a cordless drill since I already have one and I rather not get an electric torque wrench. I purchased these things:
Craftsman 3/8 to 1/2 in. Socket Adapter Sears item #00904258000
Craftsman 3/8 in. Square Socket Adapter Sears item #00925593000
After using the breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts, a cordless drill helps to unscrew them faster than by hand. Same goes for putting them back on before using the torque wrench to tighten them. Call me lazy but it saves 5-10 mins overall.
To speed up the wheel change process I use a cordless drill since I already have one and I rather not get an electric torque wrench. I purchased these things:
Craftsman 3/8 to 1/2 in. Socket Adapter Sears item #00904258000
Craftsman 3/8 in. Square Socket Adapter Sears item #00925593000
After using the breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts, a cordless drill helps to unscrew them faster than by hand. Same goes for putting them back on before using the torque wrench to tighten them. Call me lazy but it saves 5-10 mins overall.
Last edited by Espresso; 12-14-2005 at 10:57 AM.
#12
12-14-2005, 12:58 PM
One thing I learned in life is always use your own strength to take parts off a car. Pneumatic tools are good only if you have no choice such as exhaust. Like all the other guys said it reduces the chance of damaging, striping or slipping off the nut. Plus if you get cheap pneumatic tools you can get weird spikes of air pressure causing over-tightening or under-tightening.
Get a simple Craftsmen set (clean average buy) and buy a decent calibrated ratchet. Most of the expense charge will be for the calibrated ratchet.
Never do a rush job on car, something will always go wrong.
Get a simple Craftsmen set (clean average buy) and buy a decent calibrated ratchet. Most of the expense charge will be for the calibrated ratchet.
Never do a rush job on car, something will always go wrong.
#13
12-14-2005, 02:26 PM
There is nothing wrong with using air tools or a impact guns to take off bolts. I always use impact gun to take things off (when i have access to it) But to put the bolts back on i always use hand tools.
Craftsman or another brand name at sears (milwakee if i'm not mistaken) came out with a cordless impact drill/type has something like 240 ft/lbs of torque. That baby looks like a drill and works great. I used my friends and love it. But like i said only to unbolt things never tighten.
Craftsman or another brand name at sears (milwakee if i'm not mistaken) came out with a cordless impact drill/type has something like 240 ft/lbs of torque. That baby looks like a drill and works great. I used my friends and love it. But like i said only to unbolt things never tighten.
#15
12-14-2005, 05:36 PM
As far as jacks go, I use Craftsman all aluminum race jack. i got it for $250 but you can get it on sale for around 199 if you catch it.
Jack stands i went to autoZone and got them on sale 2 for 9.99 as long as they can support around 2 tons thats all you need. Some are shorter then others but you dont really need the big once unless you are all out to work on your car.
PS - never work under the car thats only supported by lift jack. Always rest the car on the stand and have lift jack as back up.
Jack stands i went to autoZone and got them on sale 2 for 9.99 as long as they can support around 2 tons thats all you need. Some are shorter then others but you dont really need the big once unless you are all out to work on your car.
PS - never work under the car thats only supported by lift jack. Always rest the car on the stand and have lift jack as back up.