Paint Faded, Tried it all. Help
#1
Paint Faded, Tried it all. Help
De badged the "G35X" off of the car, and the paint is a little faded. I tried washing, waxing, the whole 9 yards. Does anyone have any tricks or a great product to use to somehow "restore" the paint. Can't think of the right words, but I'm pretty sure you get the point. To much to drink tonight
#2
polish it out with a buffer ... if your car is always out side and the sun hitting it can cause the paint to fad a little bit thats why there is a shadow on your car left behind ... sometimes after sitting out in the sun for a few days,weeks it will fade away but...
try these things out
polish it out with buffer
3m scratch remover
goo-gone
worst comes to worst wet sand ...
try these things out
polish it out with buffer
3m scratch remover
goo-gone
worst comes to worst wet sand ...
Last edited by SN00P; 07-11-2010 at 12:05 AM.
#6
I tried washing, waxing, the whole 9 yards.
I've had this happen before on a few cars I've debadged and I have a method to getting rid of some, if not all of the 'shadow'.
1.) Machine buff entire trunk with medium cut polish
2.) Repeat step 1, but with fine cut
3.) Top off with an SG or wax or both
DG isn't too bad. Be lucky that you don't have this problem on a red or a blue car.
#7
LOL, that's hardly everything.
I've had this happen before on a few cars I've debadged and I have a method to getting rid of some, if not all of the 'shadow'.
1.) Machine buff entire trunk with medium cut polish
2.) Repeat step 1, but with fine cut
3.) Top off with an SG or wax or both
DG isn't too bad. Be lucky that you don't have this problem on a red or a blue car.
I've had this happen before on a few cars I've debadged and I have a method to getting rid of some, if not all of the 'shadow'.
1.) Machine buff entire trunk with medium cut polish
2.) Repeat step 1, but with fine cut
3.) Top off with an SG or wax or both
DG isn't too bad. Be lucky that you don't have this problem on a red or a blue car.
Trending Topics
#8
It's not very hard. If anything, you'll pull any existing swirl marks out.
Because it's such a minor flaw, you don't need a rotary buffer. A random orbital will work too. It'll take more time, but so long as you buff evenly, it's very difficult to mess up.
I use a Porter Cable 7424, which is a modified angle grinder with a 6" pad. Very user friendly and the adjustable speed controls make it a breeze to use. Just keep the speed low on the medium cut; set the speed to 2½ and then increase it to 4 for the fine cut.
I use the buffer for the paint, the glass, and the head/tail light lenses. For anyone that has yellowing or hazy lenses, that buffer with the right compound will have them clear and sparkly again.
It may be cheaper to have a detailer pull the shadows as opposed to buying the buffer (which you'd get a lot of use out of) and the medium cut (which you'd use rarely).
If you're close to Cincinnati, just swing by my place and I'll polish it out for you.
Because it's such a minor flaw, you don't need a rotary buffer. A random orbital will work too. It'll take more time, but so long as you buff evenly, it's very difficult to mess up.
I use a Porter Cable 7424, which is a modified angle grinder with a 6" pad. Very user friendly and the adjustable speed controls make it a breeze to use. Just keep the speed low on the medium cut; set the speed to 2½ and then increase it to 4 for the fine cut.
I use the buffer for the paint, the glass, and the head/tail light lenses. For anyone that has yellowing or hazy lenses, that buffer with the right compound will have them clear and sparkly again.
It may be cheaper to have a detailer pull the shadows as opposed to buying the buffer (which you'd get a lot of use out of) and the medium cut (which you'd use rarely).
If you're close to Cincinnati, just swing by my place and I'll polish it out for you.
#9
It's not very hard. If anything, you'll pull any existing swirl marks out.
Because it's such a minor flaw, you don't need a rotary buffer. A random orbital will work too. It'll take more time, but so long as you buff evenly, it's very difficult to mess up.
I use a Porter Cable 7424, which is a modified angle grinder with a 6" pad. Very user friendly and the adjustable speed controls make it a breeze to use. Just keep the speed low on the medium cut; set the speed to 2½ and then increase it to 4 for the fine cut.
I use the buffer for the paint, the glass, and the head/tail light lenses. For anyone that has yellowing or hazy lenses, that buffer with the right compound will have them clear and sparkly again.
It may be cheaper to have a detailer pull the shadows as opposed to buying the buffer (which you'd get a lot of use out of) and the medium cut (which you'd use rarely).
If you're close to Cincinnati, just swing by my place and I'll polish it out for you.
Because it's such a minor flaw, you don't need a rotary buffer. A random orbital will work too. It'll take more time, but so long as you buff evenly, it's very difficult to mess up.
I use a Porter Cable 7424, which is a modified angle grinder with a 6" pad. Very user friendly and the adjustable speed controls make it a breeze to use. Just keep the speed low on the medium cut; set the speed to 2½ and then increase it to 4 for the fine cut.
I use the buffer for the paint, the glass, and the head/tail light lenses. For anyone that has yellowing or hazy lenses, that buffer with the right compound will have them clear and sparkly again.
It may be cheaper to have a detailer pull the shadows as opposed to buying the buffer (which you'd get a lot of use out of) and the medium cut (which you'd use rarely).
If you're close to Cincinnati, just swing by my place and I'll polish it out for you.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post