Right, forgot that when 7 is unplugged 6 comes with it

Yeah I would expect to see half voltage at 7 when its plugged in, but I wouldnt have a way to measure it using my probes.

If I can prove that 7 is shorted to 8 (when DRL mode is on) and there is ~ 2.6 ohms between 7 and 6, ~ 2.6 ohms between 8 and ground and 7 is not connected to 8 when lights are turned on, I would be happy. Just realized that there will be no inputs to the module when I unplug it though lol.

Maybe I can just jerry rig something, put a piece of wire in with it when I plug it in.

Regardless, from what Ive seen, I think this solution is bang on for what I am looking to do.

Still unsure why you want to do any of this at all? If you're testing to assure that the way I mentioned will work as I mentioned, don't bother. Just go ahead and cut the wire from terminal #7 and #6 leaving enough on either end to work with. Once you do this you will have No DRL's, and no Right side High beam or Fog light.

Once you connect the wire off #7 on the Headlight side to ground, you will have Fog light on the Right side.

Once you splice the wire from the headlight side of #6 into the wire for #8, you will have all your high beams, fog lights, etc working again, and no DRLs.

Then you just grab the DRL module side of #6 and hook it to whatever you want to Light up as DRL's, ground the other end of the lights to Chassis, and you're done.

If you hit any snags or have any questions PM me, this is getting to be waaaay too much for this thread. Good luck!!

OH and don't forget to disconnect the Ground before doing all this, don't want to burn up that DRL module!

I already know what Im going to do, rewire the high beams to eliminate the original DRL and then add my own from the cig lighter. Whats the best way to isolate a wire that you cut? Keep it from making contact with anything? Ive been wrapping with electrical tape

I have no idea what this guy says in the video, no sound right now, but visual looks good. Solder and Shrink tube

I meant when you just cut the wire and dont use it for anything after lol. I typically try to solder wherever I can, when I can take the piece inside (I inhale enough fumes at work)

Otherwise I crimp or use a scotchlock

Look different from the FSM, the 07/08 has 7 wires on each Mirror it seems, and the 03-06 only has 3 wires (5 if you have Heated mirrors)

If I got the power fold jdm mirrors, is it plug and play with the 04? And is it heated like my oem one?

If it isnt heated, you can swap your mirrors. Careful though, they break easily.

how would that work? does it require more rewiring?

You basically just have to release the pins from the connector, that will leave a bunch of loose wires instead of a harness. You can then pull out your original mirrors, including the wires connected to the heat plate and install them into the new mirrors. Pay careful attention to where the wires were though. Take notes on the position of every wire in the connector.

I did this to remove the mirrors from the base when I had them painted.

You may want to change out the mirrors in any case, as the JDM one will be reversed (The curved mirror will be on driver side rather than passenger)

There is a DIY somewhere that I followed. Look up removing mirror bases or diy painting mirror bases or something. Go through all the pages as the DIY isnt on the first page.

very helpful advice! thanks.

Shrink tube brah!!! thought it was shown in video, sorry.

The 03-06 v35 ones will plug right in, the plugs are the same, BUT wires are different.
03-06
tilt uses 3 wires
heater uses 2 wires
Fold uses 2 wires

So No matter how you slice it you will need to do some wiring if you want everything to work.

Also jdm Mirrors don't have .heat

what a pita this was but its done and feels awesome ..

Did you swap in aftermarkets or stay stock?