Random Little Question Thread
#7981
#7982
What do you mean by what can you do? You can either buy spacers with built in extended studs, or just buy separate extended studs.
#7983
Edited:
While bleeding my clutch the resovour went dry and I'm pretty sure I sucked a lot of air into the system. I filled up the resovour again and tried bleeding the lines again to introduce the new fluid and although old fluid drips out of the bleeder screw no new fluid is entering the lines. I'm sure of this because I drained about an oz of liquid and the resovour is at the same level prior to bleeding.
If anyone knows how I can get fluid back into the system I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
While bleeding my clutch the resovour went dry and I'm pretty sure I sucked a lot of air into the system. I filled up the resovour again and tried bleeding the lines again to introduce the new fluid and although old fluid drips out of the bleeder screw no new fluid is entering the lines. I'm sure of this because I drained about an oz of liquid and the resovour is at the same level prior to bleeding.
If anyone knows how I can get fluid back into the system I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thanks
Last edited by canehdian_guy; 12-28-2012 at 11:15 PM.
#7984
Constantly having issues with my passenger ballast failing on me causing my headlight not to work. I unscrew it and out comes liquid (electrical fluid I suppose?). I'm on my 3rd or 4th one and don't want to keep replacing the ballast, and a new headlight is out the question. I don't have the funds for a $900 headlight (even with a discount I can get I'm looking at over half a grand for a single headlight).
I'm thinking about getting an aftermarket HID kit since I have one for my fogs (no issues) and just running those. Any other suggestions before I take this route or possible problems I may face going this route?
I'm thinking about getting an aftermarket HID kit since I have one for my fogs (no issues) and just running those. Any other suggestions before I take this route or possible problems I may face going this route?
#7985
#7986
Update...
Hello all, thought I would share some issues I am sure you have all had in the past and looking for answers.
First and foremost, My G35 will not shift out of park (unless I override the shift lock) and I here a clunk when depressing the brake pedal while starting the car. I also have no brake lights. When I scan the car, I get a C1142 brake pressure sensor error. I tested all my fuses with a lead and they are fine. My VDC, Slip, and ABC light is on (however, all work fine) When I use a test lead on the switches below the steering column I can activate them, shift form park and I have brake lights. I am all out of ideas.
Also, cruise control has recently stopped working, and the set light just flashes when turned on.
First and foremost, My G35 will not shift out of park (unless I override the shift lock) and I here a clunk when depressing the brake pedal while starting the car. I also have no brake lights. When I scan the car, I get a C1142 brake pressure sensor error. I tested all my fuses with a lead and they are fine. My VDC, Slip, and ABC light is on (however, all work fine) When I use a test lead on the switches below the steering column I can activate them, shift form park and I have brake lights. I am all out of ideas.
Also, cruise control has recently stopped working, and the set light just flashes when turned on.
#7987
Constantly having issues with my passenger ballast failing on me causing my headlight not to work. I unscrew it and out comes liquid (electrical fluid I suppose?). I'm on my 3rd or 4th one and don't want to keep replacing the ballast, and a new headlight is out the question. I don't have the funds for a $900 headlight (even with a discount I can get I'm looking at over half a grand for a single headlight).
I'm thinking about getting an aftermarket HID kit since I have one for my fogs (no issues) and just running those. Any other suggestions before I take this route or possible problems I may face going this route?
I'm thinking about getting an aftermarket HID kit since I have one for my fogs (no issues) and just running those. Any other suggestions before I take this route or possible problems I may face going this route?
#7988
Am I really missing out if I go 03/04 over 05?
I've been searching and searching and I just cannot seem to find an 05 that I could actually buy money wise. My limit is $13,000 and most 05+ that I have seen are $15,000 or more and if not they are not in good shape.
I've already come across three 04's and two 03's that I can afford.
So would I be missing out? Only thing I know of is tail lights aren't as modern ( simple switch should do it ), the interior isn't as nice ( I can't tell a damn difference in black interior ) , that it has 18 less horsepower. ( manual tranny ) and it has oem 18's and I prefer 19's but that shouldn't be a hard switch.
What are some other things that are significant in 05+
I've already come across three 04's and two 03's that I can afford.
So would I be missing out? Only thing I know of is tail lights aren't as modern ( simple switch should do it ), the interior isn't as nice ( I can't tell a damn difference in black interior ) , that it has 18 less horsepower. ( manual tranny ) and it has oem 18's and I prefer 19's but that shouldn't be a hard switch.
What are some other things that are significant in 05+
#7989
Constantly having issues with my passenger ballast failing on me causing my headlight not to work. I unscrew it and out comes liquid (electrical fluid I suppose?). I'm on my 3rd or 4th one and don't want to keep replacing the ballast, and a new headlight is out the question. I don't have the funds for a $900 headlight (even with a discount I can get I'm looking at over half a grand for a single headlight).
I'm thinking about getting an aftermarket HID kit since I have one for my fogs (no issues) and just running those. Any other suggestions before I take this route or possible problems I may face going this route?
I'm thinking about getting an aftermarket HID kit since I have one for my fogs (no issues) and just running those. Any other suggestions before I take this route or possible problems I may face going this route?
OK, Let's make sure we have things clear.
Ballast =
There is only one way to 'unscrew' this, and that is during removal of the ballast, the 3 screws pictured.
These screws simply hold the ballast.
The ballast is a SEALED UNIT. It cannot leak. It cannot get water in it.
It could be argued that you HAD one that was bad and allowed water in, but not more than one, no.
So the real question here is WHERE is this 'liquid' actually coming from?
The only thing I can think is that it's coming from the CONNECTOR (PLUG) when you unplug it (grey piece shown with wires attached) If that's the case, you probably just need a new connector/seal, because it's allowing water in.
Elaborate as much as possible and post pictures as well to help expedite this
#7990
This is not making fun of you, but damn did I when I read this.
OK, Let's make sure we have things clear.
Ballast =
There is only one way to 'unscrew' this, and that is during removal of the ballast, the 3 screws pictured.
These screws simply hold the ballast.
The ballast is a SEALED UNIT. It cannot leak. It cannot get water in it.
It could be argued that you HAD one that was bad and allowed water in, but not more than one, no.
So the real question here is WHERE is this 'liquid' actually coming from?
The only thing I can think is that it's coming from the CONNECTOR (PLUG) when you unplug it (grey piece shown with wires attached) If that's the case, you probably just need a new connector/seal, because it's allowing water in.
Elaborate as much as possible and post pictures as well to help expedite this
OK, Let's make sure we have things clear.
Ballast =
There is only one way to 'unscrew' this, and that is during removal of the ballast, the 3 screws pictured.
These screws simply hold the ballast.
The ballast is a SEALED UNIT. It cannot leak. It cannot get water in it.
It could be argued that you HAD one that was bad and allowed water in, but not more than one, no.
So the real question here is WHERE is this 'liquid' actually coming from?
The only thing I can think is that it's coming from the CONNECTOR (PLUG) when you unplug it (grey piece shown with wires attached) If that's the case, you probably just need a new connector/seal, because it's allowing water in.
Elaborate as much as possible and post pictures as well to help expedite this
Lol. The "electrical fluid" I read about it or something somewhere else. It doesn't make sense to me, just throwing it out. But there is some fluid. I have the newer kind, where it's a darker grey and thinner, but basically when I pull out the ballast, there is some liquid and also inside the plug. It's not clear either, however, it can be just contaminated water. I can't recall the texture, but for some reason it felt oily if I do remember correctly.
My original headlight broke, got another one and the person had installed strobe lights in it. I sealed that off but there may be other areas where there is a crack, thus allowing some water in.
I'm considering just getting the HID kit. I found plugs to be used with my current one, however my bulbs don't match and the difference is only ten bucks. It'll involve more labor since I'll have to mount the ballasts, but might be the better way to go so I won't continue to have the problem. I just have no idea how the water is getting in if that's the problem. Perhaps from the tires slowly splashing water at the headlight? I have no fender line since it got chewed up when I was slammed. That's the only possibility I can think of.
#7992
Lol. The "electrical fluid" I read about it or something somewhere else. It doesn't make sense to me, just throwing it out. But there is some fluid. I have the newer kind, where it's a darker grey and thinner, but basically when I pull out the ballast, there is some liquid and also inside the plug. It's not clear either, however, it can be just contaminated water. I can't recall the texture, but for some reason it felt oily if I do remember correctly.
If that's the case, that sonofabishing thing must have gotten INSANELY HOT and literally melted it out.
DO NOT DO THIS.
And I'm not even saying that for the obvious reason that Aftermarket kits are NOT as good as OEM.
I'm saying it because it's pretty clear to me that the problem is NOT GOING TO BE FIXED BY INSTALLING A HID KIT.
There's something else going on here from everything I hear. You simply don't burn through 3 or 4 ballasts for no reason, there's something else wrong.
Have you had any issue blowing fuses? Is all the stock wiring original (not tampered with) on the CAR?
Also, you mention you have HID kit running the fog lamps in the housing. HOW are these wired exactly?
Pictures are really needed here for better answers/diagnosis man.
Either way, don't waste your money or time on an HID kit yet, not until we figure this out more. There's a lot of 'extra' stuff going on with wiring, etc on your car from what I hear, and that's probably the main cause.
First I need to see this 'liquid' in a nice picture or few pictures.
#7993
#7994
If you want looks, they're awesome.
If you want good Braking, they're awesome.
if you want performance, they're mediocre. The rotors are simply too heavy, and no one makes a reasonable, or even 'light' rotor for it yet.
Short form: they're mostly for looks, or long road courses. You will never use them anywhere else.
(I purchased a set of Akebonos).
Also, what you may consider cheap might not be as cheap as you think. They really don't cost much.
It's the adapter purchase (YOU NEED THIS) and the extra stuff that puts the price up. The calipers themselves aren't expensive at all.
If they don't come with adapters and all hardware, pads, etc needed, you might want to re-think just how 'cheap' they really are.
Post the price, if you want an opinion on it.
If you want good Braking, they're awesome.
if you want performance, they're mediocre. The rotors are simply too heavy, and no one makes a reasonable, or even 'light' rotor for it yet.
Short form: they're mostly for looks, or long road courses. You will never use them anywhere else.
(I purchased a set of Akebonos).
Also, what you may consider cheap might not be as cheap as you think. They really don't cost much.
It's the adapter purchase (YOU NEED THIS) and the extra stuff that puts the price up. The calipers themselves aren't expensive at all.
If they don't come with adapters and all hardware, pads, etc needed, you might want to re-think just how 'cheap' they really are.
Post the price, if you want an opinion on it.
#7995
Ahh I hear ya. The only thing I can think, if it's kind of 'goopy', is the sealant they use on the ballast to MAKE it a 'sealed unit'.
If that's the case, that sonofabishing thing must have gotten INSANELY HOT and literally melted it out.
Hmmm this is intersting. So we know that the wiring inside that headlight has been tampered with. Don't forget this important fact!
DO NOT DO THIS.
And I'm not even saying that for the obvious reason that Aftermarket kits are NOT as good as OEM.
I'm saying it because it's pretty clear to me that the problem is NOT GOING TO BE FIXED BY INSTALLING A HID KIT.
There's something else going on here from everything I hear. You simply don't burn through 3 or 4 ballasts for no reason, there's something else wrong.
Yes, it's very possible that you are getting water in there and it's frying something.
Have you had any issue blowing fuses? Is all the stock wiring original (not tampered with) on the CAR?
Also, you mention you have HID kit running the fog lamps in the housing. HOW are these wired exactly?
Pictures are really needed here for better answers/diagnosis man.
Either way, don't waste your money or time on an HID kit yet, not until we figure this out more. There's a lot of 'extra' stuff going on with wiring, etc on your car from what I hear, and that's probably the main cause.
First I need to see this 'liquid' in a nice picture or few pictures.
If that's the case, that sonofabishing thing must have gotten INSANELY HOT and literally melted it out.
Hmmm this is intersting. So we know that the wiring inside that headlight has been tampered with. Don't forget this important fact!
DO NOT DO THIS.
And I'm not even saying that for the obvious reason that Aftermarket kits are NOT as good as OEM.
I'm saying it because it's pretty clear to me that the problem is NOT GOING TO BE FIXED BY INSTALLING A HID KIT.
There's something else going on here from everything I hear. You simply don't burn through 3 or 4 ballasts for no reason, there's something else wrong.
Yes, it's very possible that you are getting water in there and it's frying something.
Have you had any issue blowing fuses? Is all the stock wiring original (not tampered with) on the CAR?
Also, you mention you have HID kit running the fog lamps in the housing. HOW are these wired exactly?
Pictures are really needed here for better answers/diagnosis man.
Either way, don't waste your money or time on an HID kit yet, not until we figure this out more. There's a lot of 'extra' stuff going on with wiring, etc on your car from what I hear, and that's probably the main cause.
First I need to see this 'liquid' in a nice picture or few pictures.
I'm not sure how the HID kit for my fogs is wired, I had a reputable shop that's also a vendor on myg37 do the work. I haven't had any issues at all with that. The remainder of the wiring is all OEM. The strobe light is just the bulb. I sealed off as best as I can where the housing was drilled to fit the strobe. I haven't blown any fuses either. Basically whatever it is, just affects the ballast. Only thing I can think of doing to prevent water getting inside it is to use silicone or something where the plug meets the ballast. It's just a matter of having to carve that out when need be (if need be).