I can't remember. I just remember the toe bolt being able to handle 1.5 toe in without the extra work they tell you to do to install it. It makes more sense that the toe bolt will see saw the wheel, but the toe arm will push out the front of the wheel, but I need to get under a car to see how it works to give you a sure answer. If you have too much toe, then the toe arm might be what you need. What did you do to your car???

 

maxed out my camber arm...

 

So I'm getting a clunking noise from my tie rod when I turn side to side and when I go over bumps and whatnot? Is that an indication that it's going bad and needs to be replaced?

 

Do you have any links where I can get this real HID projector for the same cost?

 

I don't believe the traction rods will help you out. When I was running -8 camber I was able to get my toe in rear at 0. Car drove fine and I got great wear out of them. I had somebody doing the work for me. I was there taking a look trying to learn but it was more of a "look and learn" sorta thing.

I think the toe arm will adjust either the front of the wheel or the rear. Adjustment isn't in the middle, but adjusting it to the left or right in either case would straighten out the wheel so it's facing "straight".

The point at which I needed toe arms (when the toe bolts would no longer be useful to get to within spec) was at the -7 mark. Hope that makes sense and is somewhat helpful.

 

thanks. but when you stated you were able to get the toe to 0 at -8 camber, was that the toe bolt or arms?

also about where it adjusts, the spring bucket (or toe arm once replaced) sits towards the rear side of the tire, so I assume thats the side that either goes in or out, and the front of the tire stays fixed (or somewhat fixed, but still suffers minor changes)

my issue now is the front of the tire rubs fender, and rear of the tire has clearance, so ofcourse i prefer to bring the front of the tire in, rather than bring the rear of the tire out to match the front. so i can avoid rubbing altogether.

 

I've been looking everywhere for part #5 in this diagram. Can anyone tell me where I can buy this?

 

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=205

 

any difference in stillen z-tube vs oem x-tube?

 

z-tube**

 

You need toe arms Chris for greater adjustability....or, you can raise the car up and dial in less negative camber which will pull the front of the tire in. When adjusting camber, it also affects your toe settings. When you dial in negative camber, it naturally pushes the front of the tire out and vis versa. Make sense?

 

Yeah, I managed to get away with un-maxing the camber arms and the toe looks straight now, and car no longer wobbles. But only alignment will tell how my toe is.

Now the issue is the lower bracket on my front coils are seized. (Collars are free). The threads are rusted onto the lower bracket, preventing the whole thing from spinning. And it's stuck at a very very un cool height.

PB Blaster overnight = no bueno.

I've had a few people say to torch the bracket a little bit and it should budge. How safe is that given that the shock body even says keep away from flame.

 

You should be fine with what you have, my G was slammed to the ground and I was able to adjust everything just fine with the simple SPC bolts and arms. You should only the the crazy alignment parts if you are only looking to go for crazy amounts of camber and such.

 

I have a 2003 white g35 sedan. I wanna get black vinyl done on the roof. It's been hard for me to decide if I should get glossy or matt black. Anyone have any suggestions or pics?

 

Punch that strut in the face chris and show it who's boss