G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Random Little Question Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Rating: Thread Rating: 7 votes, 5.00 average.
 
  #9631  
Old 09-26-2013, 02:18 PM
Urbanengineer's Avatar
Super Moderator

iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: OH-IO
Posts: 11,108
Received 1,030 Likes on 947 Posts
Originally Posted by g35slug
Has anyone got a p0507 idle air control rpm higher than expected?
Motordyne plenum spacer install last page. TB reset.
 
  #9632  
Old 09-26-2013, 03:12 PM
dofu's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 10,820
Received 240 Likes on 196 Posts
Originally Posted by princessg35
Thank you, I'm having a friend of mine that works at a shop find paint for me. I'm not new to the internet but its hard to search for something that you don't know specifically what your looking for. I'd hate to waste my money or look stupid buying wrong paint.

Thanks again!!
That's also because "OEM paint" is a term that technically doesn't exist. You have a paint color code on the driver's side door and you have a variety of paint manufacturers to choose from. You usually will not find a true OEM paint because car manufacturers like Nissan, Honda, etc... use paints of the same color from many different paint manufacturers, all depending on where the car was painted. It's not until you get to the true high-end that you will find car manufacturer branded paint cans (Benz, Ferrari, etc...) but even some of those might come from different paint manufacturers as well.

I usually stick with a premium quality paint like DuPont or PPG, which will cost something around $50 per pint, which is good for three layers of paint on the G.

Either way, unless your car is black (not any black though), your car needs to be color matched so the color doesn't look off, and only a body shop can do that. If they aren't worried about color-matching, take your car somewhere else.
 

Last edited by dofu; 09-26-2013 at 03:22 PM.
  #9633  
Old 09-26-2013, 03:26 PM
dofu's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 10,820
Received 240 Likes on 196 Posts
Originally Posted by MrTBahgs
'06X in need of both front and rear pads, dealership seems to be a lot higher than local shops would be and I'm trying to justify that price difference. Even if i bought OEM pads and had a local shop install i think its a fair chunk different.

First off am i wrong to even consider more basic pads like Bendix or whatever basic shops use even if its ceramic? I'd hate to have my rotors chewed through because of a tougher pad trying to get a longer life. I know one shop claims they use Akebono pads and seems like a great price, but they weren't 100% sure it fits the car, best they can do is say the specs compare to what the OEM ones claim.

Another option would be to try a Nissan dealer and I assume get the same pads as a 350Z? Not sure if the AWD sedan would be different than that, but I know Nissan would be cheaper, but not necessarily the same quality of work.

My biggest hesitation with trying a local brake shop even with a good reputation is if they are there to simply put on the pads I provide and turn the rotors and basically overlook anything else that might be slightly off or the rotors aren't perfectly set for that wheel and I get a lot of squealing or something.

I guess the short version is, when it comes to brakes do you really get what you pay for and should pay the extra to go through the dealership that truly knows these cars since obviously brakes is a key component, or is it possible to save some money with the labor and try a local shop with OEM pads i provide? Or other options/experiences as well please.
Look up Project Mu or even Akebono. Both make great brake pads and should be cheaper than OEMs. You might run into a problem getting a random shop to install them for you since they are a safety part. You should also get the rotors turned as well, but you're looking at about another $100.
 
  #9634  
Old 09-26-2013, 03:27 PM
ristau5741's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
was going through some old stuff recently, found a key for my 2004 G35 sedan in a plastic envelope, marked "works on doors only, will not start engine". what is this key for? there is only 1 door lock, and it's on the driver side door.
 
  #9635  
Old 09-26-2013, 03:29 PM
dofu's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 10,820
Received 240 Likes on 196 Posts
Originally Posted by ristau5741
was going through some old stuff recently, found a key for my 2004 G35 sedan in a plastic envelope, marked "works on doors only, will not start engine". what is this key for? there is only 1 door lock, and it's on the driver side door.
The ignition needs the RFID chip in the key, and this key most likely doesn't have it. My G came with a wallet key which only works on the doors in case you lock your keys inside the car.
 
The following users liked this post:
SDGenius (09-26-2013)
  #9636  
Old 09-27-2013, 08:56 AM
g35slug's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: mn
Posts: 35
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by Urbanengineer
Motordyne plenum spacer install last page. TB reset.
What do u mean last page? Where would I find this? The high idle is getting to me
 
  #9637  
Old 09-27-2013, 11:19 AM
vivathedon's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 5
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Would anyone have any information on the type of baffling infiniti used or cutaway pictures of a G35 coupe/350z/fx35 mid pipe resonator?

I plan to swap out the mid pipe on my sedan for a coupe mid pipe but I'm not thrilled about paying $150 for a piece of used exhaust pipe. What I would prefer to do is just make a resonator and get close to that factory, g coupe sound but I have no idea how the factory resonator was designed.

I've been searching the net and digging through a few forums but I've come up with squat so far, unless you count the BS relevant items that google throws your way (like dodge challenger resonators..).

Any pictures, info or leads would be greatly appreciated
 
  #9638  
Old 09-27-2013, 11:30 AM
bksg35's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If I had to guess its most like a flowmaster but with packing and I say that because hooked a flowmaster up for s and giggles and sounds the same only way more resonance but I am curious myself if anyone knows fact of its design
 
  #9639  
Old 09-27-2013, 02:32 PM
NFSP G35's Avatar
? = 2B || !2B

iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tallahassee, FL (or thereabout)
Posts: 22,160
Received 851 Likes on 639 Posts
If you're paying $150 for a coupe midpipe, you're getting screwed.
 
  #9640  
Old 09-27-2013, 05:43 PM
dofu's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 10,820
Received 240 Likes on 196 Posts
Originally Posted by vivathedon
Would anyone have any information on the type of baffling infiniti used or cutaway pictures of a G35 coupe/350z/fx35 mid pipe resonator?

I plan to swap out the mid pipe on my sedan for a coupe mid pipe but I'm not thrilled about paying $150 for a piece of used exhaust pipe. What I would prefer to do is just make a resonator and get close to that factory, g coupe sound but I have no idea how the factory resonator was designed.

I've been searching the net and digging through a few forums but I've come up with squat so far, unless you count the BS relevant items that google throws your way (like dodge challenger resonators..).

Any pictures, info or leads would be greatly appreciated
The going price for a coupe mid-pipe is $60-80 but it's not so easy to find them around these days so I would say $100 shipped would be decent. A new mid-pipe should cost somewhere around $200.

You can always go with a 350Z mid-pipe as they are exactly the same as the G35 coupe mid-pipe, but you will need a 4" extension to make it fit.

If you decide to make your own, the coupe and Z mid-pipes use a Calsonic resonator that looks a lot like a standard oval can muffler, but good luck finding that.

Your next option would be an HKS muffler. That will give your exhaust a similar tone, but it will sound nicer than a coupe, and you will have a very clean looking muffler as well, but you are now looking at something closer to $300.

IMHO, skip the factory parts and just get a decent aftermarket cat-back exhaust system. You should be able to find a used Stillen at a good price, or you can go with something more aggressive looking like a Buddy Club single canister. Either of those sound much better than the coupe mid-pipe and HKS muffler combo. And if you must make your own, get a Cherry Bomb resonator instead!
 

Last edited by dofu; 09-27-2013 at 05:52 PM.
The following users liked this post:
vivathedon (10-01-2013)
  #9641  
Old 09-30-2013, 03:53 AM
dominate's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: O'ahu, Hawai'i
Posts: 929
Received 89 Likes on 73 Posts
I know coils are the best option, but I'm considering running H&R drop springs on my KYB GR-2 Revised 350z shocks. The shocks have around 4k on them. I know the spring rate won't match up perfectly, the H&R's shouldn't destroy the shocks in an unreasonable amount of time, right? I'm thinking the shocks would last roughly 30k with the H&R's on them?
 

Last edited by dominate; 09-30-2013 at 04:42 AM.
  #9642  
Old 10-01-2013, 10:40 AM
vivathedon's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 5
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by dofu
The going price for a coupe mid-pipe is $60-80 but it's not so easy to find them around these days so I would say $100 shipped would be decent. A new mid-pipe should cost somewhere around $200.

You can always go with a 350Z mid-pipe as they are exactly the same as the G35 coupe mid-pipe, but you will need a 4" extension to make it fit.

If you decide to make your own, the coupe and Z mid-pipes use a Calsonic resonator that looks a lot like a standard oval can muffler, but good luck finding that.

Your next option would be an HKS muffler. That will give your exhaust a similar tone, but it will sound nicer than a coupe, and you will have a very clean looking muffler as well, but you are now looking at something closer to $300.

IMHO, skip the factory parts and just get a decent aftermarket cat-back exhaust system. You should be able to find a used Stillen at a good price, or you can go with something more aggressive looking like a Buddy Club single canister. Either of those sound much better than the coupe mid-pipe and HKS muffler combo. And if you must make your own, get a Cherry Bomb resonator instead!
Honestly, a cherry bomb glass pack was my next idea. They're inexpensive and will save me a bunch of fab time.

I think $100 for a coupe mid pipe is reasonable But like you mentioned, the trick is tracking one down.

As far as an after market muffler goes, if it was just me driving the car I'd jump on the HKS bandwagon. The old lady would not approve though.. and she's the one with the
 
  #9643  
Old 10-01-2013, 12:18 PM
G_DiRTY5's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Toronto
Posts: 276
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Originally Posted by G_DiRTY5
So my friend with an '06 G35x recently just started experiencing the jerk/clunking noise when he puts the car into reverse from park. But from any other gear to reverse it shifts fine, it's only from park.

So I took a better look at his car and discovered that the jerk/clunking noise only happens when the car is cold and goes away when the car is warm and has been driven for a bit. Which makes since the fluid isn't at operating temperature to lubricate effectively.

I did tell him to change the fluid since I will be changing my tranny fluid before winter as well since the cold weather will be even harder on the transmission especially with the constant tire slipping due to snow and ice.

He went to a shop to get that done the other day and the tech. told him that changing the fluid in the tranny would actually make the problem worse??

I figure there is no sense in keeping that dirty fluid in there as it will just get dirtier and dirtier over time and probably turn into sludge.

Now I'm kinda 50:50 about changing my tranny fluid lol.
bump.

I'm sure someone knows a thing or two about our automatic transmissions.
 
  #9644  
Old 10-01-2013, 03:20 PM
herrschaft's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Coast
Posts: 7,738
Received 770 Likes on 604 Posts
There's nothing wrong with changing the fluid, just don't have the tranny flushed.
 
  #9645  
Old 10-01-2013, 03:31 PM
dofu's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 10,820
Received 240 Likes on 196 Posts
Originally Posted by vivathedon
Honestly, a cherry bomb glass pack was my next idea. They're inexpensive and will save me a bunch of fab time.

I think $100 for a coupe mid pipe is reasonable But like you mentioned, the trick is tracking one down.

As far as an after market muffler goes, if it was just me driving the car I'd jump on the HKS bandwagon. The old lady would not approve though.. and she's the one with the
The HKS muffler will make your car sound like a lot like a Z - not much louder, with a nicer tone. The Cherry Bomb will be louder than that.
 


You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 7 votes, 5.00 average.

Quick Reply: Random Little Question Thread



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:20 AM.