First, find out what they put in there.

Second, it's just a hydraulic system, so there's not a whole lot to worry about.
So you could probably just swap it to ATF without worrying too much about what was in it to start with. However, it would still be nice to change out as much of the fluid as possible.

The best way to get the system drained as much as possible is to go under the car and pull the two lines from the bottom of the steering rack, it's pretty much the lowest point in the system so you'll get almost all of it out.
You could also take the belt loose and spin the pump by hand in both directions just to completely clear it.

Put everything back together, overfill the reservoir.

This is going to introduce a ton of air (obviously) and your pump is going to sound horrible when you first start it.
Keep topping off the reservoir as it draws fluid into the system and works the air out.
Once it's steady, start turning the wheel lock-to-lock and check the level adding more fluid as needed.
When the fluid level is steady again, cap it and drive it around a bit and check it again.
The pump may actually take as long as a couple days to quiet back down, but it will.

 

Thanks ^^

 

I have an 03 coupe and want to replace the two-piece key and fob. Can I go to my local Infiniti and have them make an Infiniti branded Flipkey? Would rather have that over the generic eBay Flipkey lol.

 

Yes, but understand that you will be paying a lot for that key. If you care to be frugal, you can always source the key on Amazon or somewhere else online for cheap, and then bring it to the dealer to cut and program. I'm not sure if you can save more if you bring it elsewhere to get cut, then to the dealer to get programmed, but it may be worth looking into.

 

Anybody here track there sedan? 05 black AT stock except for the 18" falken rims (koblers or something like that?) wrapped on 245 45 18 yokohamas that need to be replaced today No pics yet but im loving the forum and have learned so much already.
Its my DD and i want it to last. I know im asking for a lot out of a car but i want to know if i should get any special fluids? Or coolers? Or any recommendation s? Btw it has 105k miles lol!

Edit: also im taking the track thing slow probably until spring comes along. I

 

The AT in our cars doesn't do well when it gets hot (for example, if it's driven hard for extended periods... like on a track LOL)
I would recommend looking into getting a transmission cooler, there's some DIYs floating around the forum for doing that mod. It's not very expensive, fairly easy to do, and it gives you a good opportunity to change your ATF for something better anyway.

It generally goes without saying, but use a good synthetic motor oil and change regularly. It's OK to change your oil a little too often, but it's never OK to change not-often-enough.
My personal preference is the "European Formula" 0w40 Castrol Edge. You can get it in a 5qt a Wal*Mart for a good price. Do your research on oil filters too, they're certainly not all created equal.

As always, when tracking a car, make sure you have good, high-performance brake fluid.
On a track, really good brakes are one of the most important things (going faster won't save your car or your life, but being able to stop quickly just might)
Actually, being able to stop quickly and reliably is the important part... you could have the best brakes in the world and crap tires or a bad alignment and significantly hurt your stopping power.

This isn't really a big deal, but it's a very easy one that actually does improve steering feel... swap your power-steering fluid for synthetic ATF... if you do a fluid change and add a cooler to the transmission, it would be an excellent time to do the power steering as well. I did this on my car and wasn't expecting to feel any difference... I just did it because the PS fluid was old... but I was surprised when I could actually feel a difference in the steering afterwards.

 

Thanks for all the info!

Edit: if i read it correctly you say synthetic trans fluid as a sub for power steering fluid?

Also adding this to my post for future refrence and just in case anybody was interested

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...r-install.html

 

I have been battling an airbag warning light lately. I keep trying to get the diagnostic mode to kick in, but I cant seem to get it to work. The method I have been using is:
Car to on (not engine start), wait for light to turn of (roughly 6 secs)
Car to off, wait 5-7 seconds
Repeat, car on, off, on, off for a total of 3 cycles.
Car to on and watch the light for a blinking code.

Mine usually just stays with the normal blink and upon turning the engine on it resets the light until it blinks again. Only one time did I think I got the diagnostic mode to work, because I did get a slow blink and then some fast ones, but it was 1 slow, 2 fast with a longer pause and then 2 more fast blinks... thats not how its supposed to work lol. I assume it meant 1+2 = code 12, but I wanted to confirm with another diagnostic mode session.

Any help with getting into this mode? What can i improve with my ignition on/offs?
Also is there a good source for the blink code info and more importantly, where the pieces are that potentially need replacing? I'd like to check if the cable or something might just be a bit loose and causing a miss-error.

 

Minor update to the above post.

I think I have been getting diagnostic mode all along, but every time it ends up just being a single long blink repeated. I was just figuring it was the same blink it always is like when driving, but this time I paid more attention to the timing and can see it is different. When the actual warning is flashing its like a half second on, half second off, and repeat. When I have it switched to diagnostic mode it is on for a full 3 seconds and then off for 2 seconds and repeat.

My problem is that it never gives off any fast blinks, its a constant 3 second on, 2 second off, and repeat until I decide to turn off the car. I don't believe I have seen a code for just the single long blink, they are always a combo of long followed by short in the random things I have found online.

Can anyone explain what 1 long blink and no short blinks means?

 

http://infinitihelp.com/diy/common/i...iagnosis_1.gif

I'm having the same issue diagnosing mine. Check out this site, it may help.

 

Yea that's the same method I have been using and works perfectly.

My problem now is that I do get into diagnostic mode, but it never shows an error code, just a slow 3sec on 2 sec off blink. I believe that means there is an old code still in its memory, but it doesn't ever redisplay the old code or something. I guess I will need to have the Consult II device or whatever read it at a dealer.

I was able to reset my light and it stayed off for like a week or more, but eventually came back and I have since reset it again, every time trying to see what the actual error code is, but not getting anywhere.

If you are getting a blink code for yours, post what the sequence is and I can reference the pdf i found (forget the source) and let you know what it says. You will need something like 1 long and 6 short blinks as an example of what to expect.

 

Does anyone know if an 07 g37 window visors would fit an 05 g35? And where I could find the window visors w/ clips, rather than double sided tape.

 

That would depend entirely on whether you're talking about the sedan or coupe

 

Oops! Lol I forgot to add that.. Sedan.

 

No sorry. Totally different generation.