Ahha! Very nice thank you, I wasn't familiar with that site so now I can look at all sorts of things. $50 is a bit higher than I would have hoped, but I still may bite. If i end up trying to uber cheap one I will pass along my impressions of it, but I am still pretty skeptical.

*Edit: CZP's $24 for basic shipping = not getting my business, thats pretty insane.*

 

i just bough this and it fits perfectly

 

I was involved in a small collision on the front bumper driver side. It caused my passenger side HID to go out, but it went back on after turning it off and on. Now, when going over bumps, it frequently goes off again and I need to turn the switch off and on to get it back on. Any ideas? Igniter was attached and the wiring to the ballasts look connected properly.

 

U guys really should. Hit up ur local dealers online site if they have one. Most do. And most prices are comparable online.

 

Hard to tell what the issue is unless you completely inspect the hid kit.

Same thing kinda happens in my old Honda Accord before. The right side hid bulb would not turn on all the time. It was also involved in a minor front end collision. So I just turn it off for a minute and turn it back on. PPssibly something loose somewhere

 

On a 5-AT is there anything wrong with leaving your car in M-5 and driving around? It seems to automatically shift when necessary, like if I forget to shift down at a red then start driving it goes through the gears like in D.

 

^What year?
If 04.5 or later, the shift logic changed.
Before that, there's really no difference between M-5 and "D"

 

03.5. Thanks for the heads up

 

I recently bought an 05 g35 coupe. I noticed the bulb in the trunk was missing so I bought an led t10. I put it in there and it worked but as I was closing it, I was noticing that it didn't turn off while I closed the trunk. I figured that's why it was missing in the first place. Has anyone else experienced this? I took it back out in fear of it draining my battery

 

Still shopping for my g35. My price range tells me the one I get will most likely have at least 80k miles. (will be financed)

Done a lot of research on what to expect and am willing to deal with the brake and suspension issues. What concerns me of course is the old OC issue.

When buying used will a plug check and compression test tell me if it has the issue?

I'm actually hoping to find the short block replacement in it's service records. I feel like a 100k g35 should have either had it fixed already or at least be showing symptoms without doing an OC test, which is impossible if I dont yet own the car.

 

Tried looking for reviews and answers but no luck.. Are the Tomei 272*'s an aggressive cam setup? And are they any good?

 

Anytime you go over 11mm of lift, it's recommended to upgrade the valves, valve springs, rod/head bolts, and a tune.
The Tomei's have been tested for decent results, but the JWT S2's prove better on NA build. If you're boosted, then I recommend JWT (Jim Wolf Technology) C2 cams. Your revs can be raised to 7500rpm. IF you do go with JWT, try to get JWT springs to match.

 

Going to stay N/A. Motor is 2005 RevUp

0.020", 11:1 Pistons
Mill, P&P the heads
Long tube headers

Already has other mods to make 270whp/250wtq.. I was hoping to hit somewhere closer to or over 300whp

 

*looking for someone to help with fixing the lock actuator on the 2005 G35 Coupe -- in NYC -- anyone? any local mechanics here?

 

I'm looking to buy the illusion lip and found out Duraflex makes them and there is a eBay brand. Andys is selling Duraflex brand for around $220-230. Ebay brand goes for around $114.00. Is it worth buying the eBay one or should I buy the better one?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/151689550031?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE