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I've got a random question , figured I'd post here first. I don't expect to get many replies but here it goes.
So I have to park my 05 sedan in a poorly paved parking lot. and my front wheel sits in a little indentation in the pavement. Essentially my driver side tire is in 5 inch deep pothole. so the car isn't level whatsoever.
My question is.. what parts are going to wear prematurely from my car sitting in this position for about 23 hours a day. I have recently developed a clunk on hard breaking that can be heard in the same area , the drivers side front wheel. I'm thinking my sway bar end links might be wearing prematurely from parking this way since they are loaded up since I'm not parked on a level surface. Can anyone agree disagree? What should I do? I have moog endlinks I replaced about a year ago, I know my clunk noise could be totally unrelated but my steering has gotten more vague as well.
Yeah loading up the chassis like that will wear out rubber bushings faster since there is constant tension on them.
If it's an asphalt road just buy a sack of asphalt repair from home Depot and dump it in the hole and let it sit overnight with your vehicle parked in front or behind it. As a temporary fix you can just pick up a sack of gravel and pour that in the hole.
I can't even count the number of times I've doney own road repair because I live in the county and they really let the roads go to hell some winter's.
Look up the asphalt patch on YouTube, it's SUPER easy to use, if you have a short piece of wood like a 3' long 2x4 or something you can use it to tamp the patch in really well and it will last for years for about $15, Sakrete is the brand I typically use for anything like that, concrete, etc.
It will be sticky the next day so put a pile of sand on top of it to keep it from sticking to your tires. You can drive on it immediately if you need to but I usually stay off it for 1 full day.
I think my sway bar link on my driver side is bad I took a look under the car after parking on level ground. It was obvious that the driver side is oriented differently than the passenger side. I couldn't move the passenger side one any and the drivers side appears to move a little at the top ball joint. the problem I noticed is the rubber boot is touching the zerk fitting because the whole joint is at an angle . Ill post a pic also I cleaned off the end link before this picture.. it was covered in grease and the zerk fitting spit out a bunch of grease too. I have been noticing the tell tale signs of a bad sway bar link as well. the increased body roll and a small clunk going over bumps coming from the drivers side front area sway bar link
Going to be installing a back up camera. I need to get an add a circuit for our cars. Any idea on where to get the add a circuit connectors locally? Would rather not order at $2 each.
Does anyone have any pictures or instructions on how to remove the far left and right AC vents that are located on the dash? Do they just pop off or are they screwed or glued in??
Hey so I was installing white line bushings on the LCA and they are not 100% flush. Used a 29mm socket and it won’t push down any futher as the socket is somewhat too thick, I might have installed in backwards?
Will this effect the alignment when I get one?
I'm making this thread so people can ask a random little question without making a totally new thread for that small question that doesn't need a whole thread. Obviously i had to break the ice on this new forum 'tool' (as i am going to put it) and or/idea and make a thread for my random little question. Reply if you want, ask questions if you got 'em!
Anyways, my question is, i recently replaced the bracket in my door because the **** started popping all the way down the road. An annoying pop that went away when i held the top of the handle with my hand. I originally replaced the bracket because some where down the line, it got bored out. Seemed to happen after i hit that MAJOR rattle making pot hole down in Jacksonville florida that shook me and my car to bits.
It has been popping ever since.
Replaced bracket, and it still pops. I added felt all around it to see if that would help and it didn't. I am almost thinking that it could be happening in between where the leather armrest 'handle' thing at the top is joining with the plastic door panel (because those aren't one piece, correct?) and if so, is there any way to get under there to add some felt? Does anyone else even have an annoying pop that CANNOT be drowned out? It honestly drives me so far up the wall that i am having a hard time breathing rom the altitude. I am about ready to just dynomat the crap out of the door.
Any suggestions for 'pop' removal would be appreciated.
I'm making the assumption you're talking about the outside door handle. Did you have to remove(or even loosen) the rear glass run track that's down inside the door?
If it didn't seat back into the upper half correctly and/or the 10mm bolt that holds it to the door shell is loose it can rattle like that. If there's a hard rod instead of a cable going to the inside handle that isn't snapped into it's guide that could be it.
my g35 coupe has an issue I cant solve so if anyone has any idea on how to fix this please let me know.
issue:
obd port isn't getting any power. I noticed this about a week ago when I had a check engine light and my code reader wouldn't pick up my car even being on. figure its a fuse does anyone know where this fuse might be located?
my g35 coupe has an issue I cant solve so if anyone has any idea on how to fix this please let me know.
issue:
obd port isn't getting any power. I noticed this about a week ago when I had a check engine light and my code reader wouldn't pick up my car even being on. figure its a fuse does anyone know where this fuse might be located?
See the last post in this thread. Might help u out:
I'm looking at getting the RevUp airbox (I know I'm late to the scene but that's ok). Is this the correct part? https://www.discountinfinitiparts.co...ver-16526ac700 it says 2005-2007 Manual Coupe, Manual Sedan. I asked the purveyors of the site and they said they couldn't confirm without the VIN for a 2006 6MT. So can anyone PM me their 2006 Manual Sedan VIN or confirm that is the correct part? I'm 99% sure it is, but I don't wanna have to risk the 15% restocking fee and return shipping.
07-15-2019, 03:55 PM
