WARNING!!:!
The Filter (Screen) on these cars MAY be removed like the OP - HOWEVER there are 3 bolt/nut combinations that you must get from the top side of the valve body. You may loosen them and get the screen off, but in order to get proper torque on those 3 nut/bolt you should remove the valve body.

This is the reason that Nissan does not consider this a "serviceable item". It is because you SHOULD remove the entire valve body assembly before replacing the screen. It is the only way to ensure the torque is proper. Last thing you want is to have these bolts loosen up on you at all.

 

Uhmmm... Have you done yours?

The three nuts which you speak of torque just fine.
The key is not to push them out of their hole once the nut is removed...

In this post you will see that I did three Nissan tranmissions without any issues.

 

Why didn't I think of that? Probably because I had a bad experience on a completely different setup a couple years ago.

Anyway, I took your advice and tapped it out with no issues. Problem solved! Thanks for the input.

 

One more thing: Is it normal to have some saturation on the new pan gasket the day after doing this? There's certainly no dripping or drops forming, but there's a light film of oil (i'm assuming tranny fluid) on the outer edges of the pan gasket.

Before anyone asks, the pan surface was completely cleaned before installing the new gasket.

 

You might have tighten the pan bolts too much or not enough.
Clean it off... Wal-Mart degreaser around the pan then hose it off.
Go for a drive then check it tomorrow.

There should only be 1/16 -1/8 of gasket that was pushed out when you torqued the pan bolts.

 

If anything I overtightened them (I did snap a bolt, after all). I'll check the torque and loosen them a little next week. The gasket is pretty well pushed out where the bolts are, but I wouldn't think it's enough to create a leak.

As for the filter: I had no issues with the bolts there, but if I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't. There wasn't anything clogging the screen. I would suggest removing and cleaning the pan, though, since there was some sludge that didn't drain.

 

What is the correct torque setting for the trans pan bolts, btw?

 

Hi All,

I am thinking doing a ATF drain/fill on my 2003 G35 Coupe. I read every posts on this thread. I just wonder where or which seller on ebay current sell the ATF with the best price? I think I need 5 quarts? Also, which oil pan does my car needs?

I know the differential uses different oil. What is the recommended oil for change the diff oil? And how much do I need?

 

My 04x has 82K miles on it.

I bought it with 35K and it hasn't been done yet.

Can I just drain and drop the trans pan, clean it, and replace 4 quarts of Matic S ?

is it that easy ?

 

almost ready to do my ATF change, but where do i put in the new ATF? i take it the hole on the top left is where i drain it?

 

There is a fill spout in the engine bay at the back. It's held on by a 10 or 12mm bolt. Easy to get to.

 

kk found it this process seems like its not much harder than changing your engine's oil. I'm also doing my rear diff fluid, i saw the video on that and its disgustingly easy.

sooo...

1. lift car
2. unscrew 19mm bolt and drain ATF from pan to bucket
3. remove bolts from outside of pan(10mm?)
4. replace filter/gasket and clean magnet(s) & crap from bottom of pan
5. replace pan and 19mm drain bolt
6. refill with same amount that was drained
7. lower car and enjoy

is that it?

 

I plan on doing this in the coming months..

 

Yeah, that's about it.

IMO, if I had to do it again, I wouldn't replace the filter again (it's actually more like a screen). Mine didn't have anything in it, and it's sort of annoying to remove.

Others may disagree, but i'd suggest draining the fluid, dropping/cleaning the pan, replacing the gasket and refilling the fluid.

 

went over to Nissan and the guy couldnt even find the P/N for the filter, so i just said screw it :/