I looked at it once. Decided it was easier to turn the nozzle 180*.


It only happens to me at certain gas stations with specific nozzles. I just don't go to those stations anymore. Problem solved

 

There was a recall on these early in the cars run. Yes, I've had my '04 since new (which was actually '03) Had mine done in its first year, but don't know if the dealers will still do it on cars that didn't have it done since its not actually a safety issue.

 

I tried the upside down nozzle trick for the first time this past weekend since I had to stop at a different gas station and it was giving me trouble. My advice is to click off the auto pump lever when you might be getting close to full. I let it just run and my car got a nice little gasoline bath.

 

This works for me. .... pull the nozzle out so only the tip is in, then turn sideways and pump slow. After a gallon or so go back to a normal pump.

 

So let me offer you guys of a possible different problem I've encountered that might be related to this gas issue. I've had my car for 8 years. Up until about 3 years ago, I've noticed that sometimes the pump would stop, and I would only get about a half a tank to 3/4 of a take of gas. This would happen intermittently enough that it didn't bother me too much. I've already had the gas gauge checked, and it's working as it should.

Fast-forward to today, and I'm getting a P0455 code. So after some research, that code typically means it's the Canister Vent Valve, then I started researching on what that actually does (because I'm a noob and I just like cars that go vroom vroom). Then I realized that maybe the air can't be displaced because of a clogged vent valve or maybe the entire charcoal canister? I called the dealership and someone over in parts said that the vent valves from 2003-2010 have been faulty and Nissan/Infiniti have already redesigned it. This gas issue is also a common problem, so maybe they're related?

I've already purchased the newly redesigned Vent Valve, and I'll install it next week and monitor my gas fills. Hopefully I'll remember to let you guys know after several fill ups. lol But yeah, hopefully this offers some insight into fixing the problem for anyone who stumbles upon this thread.

 

Sounds like a whole lot of speculation with the related issues. Best of luck.

 

I had this issue and replacing the evap caniter and the fuel cap solved it.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/intake-mas-and-hoses/nissan/oem-g35-evap-canister-vent-control-purge-valve-p-14992.html

 

I had this problem on my 04 G35. The dealer did two thing. First they performed a modification inside the gas tank this did not fix the problem . Second they replace the Charcoal canister this fixed the problem. As it turns out the charcoal canister get handle gas vapor fumes but will clog up if you get raw gas into the canister. A "mold" will actually grow inside the charcoal canister and you can open it up and see this. The way it happens is by overfilling the gas tank. My significant other would alway top of the gas tank when filling up this is after the nozzle clicks off. She would continue filling. The raw gas would flow down the the vent line and get into the charcoal canister.

 

Yeah that's a very very bad habit to get into, continuing to pump in fuel once the nozzle has turned the pump off. You can screw up the gas cap, blow excess fuel out of the tank and screw up your tires (gasoline and rubber tires don't mix), and pump raw liquid fuel into the charcoal canister.

EDIT: This has nothing to do with the chronic issue a lot of G35's have where the pump turns off BEFORE the tank is actually full. That is typically buildup inside the secondary vapor return line that goes up to the fill neck. The rubber hoses that connect it to the tank get clogged up and it doesn't return the air being displaced from the tank so it tricks the pump nozzle into thinking the tank is full. This is what the dealership replaced in the previous post, the baffle inside the tank, however I've seen the issue is usually the rubber hoses themselves being full of deposits that just need to be cleaned out.

 

Interesting to read all this. I have had the chronic issue of not being able to fill my tank properly for years. My solution has been to pull the gas pump out and fill the tank by allowing the gas to fall into the filler neck, making it impossible for the pump to shut off. It takes a while sometimes as you need to go slow and make sure the gas doesn't overflow, which I've never had happen. But, there have been several times where my gas tank is filled so full that the gas stops flowing down into the gas tank (essentially the tank is 100% full as well as the filler neck, all the way to the gas cap). In this case, the the vapor return lines are surely gasoline-full as well.

To date I have not had any issues with my evap system, however I will be sure to not mega-fill the G from now on.

 

Yeah so at the top of your gas tank there are two small rubber hoses that connect to metal lines. One goes to the charcoal canister, the other goes to the air purge/relief line that goes back up to the top of the fill neck. They're just held in place with squeeze clamps, wait until your tank is 3/4 full or lower, then get the car on jackstands, remove those hoses, and use a combination of bronze bore cleaners (like for gun barrels), compressed air, brake cleaner, etc to clean the debris out of those lines.

Typically the debris is very obvious and it's inside those rubber 90 degree bent hoses. I prefer to spray brake cleaner into the air purge to fill neck from the bottom then use compressed air to shoot it up and out of the fill neck. You will need the gas cap removed for this.

Bronze bore brush works great for the nipples coming out of the fuel tank. Don't use steel which can spark. Gun barrel brushes work perfectly, 9mm is a very snug fit, smaller like .22cal works better imo but you need to brush around the whole thing and it takes a little longer. DON'T USE NYLON GUN BORE BRUSHES THEY CAN MELT! It's not actually nylon it's some kind of plastic that usually doesn't hold up to gas.

The rubber lines are really short and usually that's where the debris is and brake cleaner / compressed air makes short work of it. Might need to dig around with a little screwdriver just don't tear the rubber.

 

Those rubber hoses are accessible from under the car without removing ANYTHING. They're directly above the differential, it's sort of a tight fit to reach up to them, you'll probably need some angle head needle nose pliers to get the hose clamps off. I would focus solely on the SMALL line though, that's the vent relief one, it's on the same side as the great big hose for the fill neck.

There's a rubber coupling about 18" away up the line towards the fill neck, you can take that one off as well and blow brake cleaner/air both ways up and down the line after you disconnect the rubber 90 degree fitting from the tank.

This hose I circled is usually the problem, inside the tank there is a baffle which might also be an issue but blowing air directly into the tank from the rubber line can dislodge any debris. Your fuel pump sock/screen will catch any piece. It's a total pain in the *** to get your arm inside the tank to replace that baffle, I don't have very large diameter arms and it's an EXTREME challenge for me, people with bigger arms it would be impossible. I have to go all the way almost to my shoulder to reach the thing and it's a contortionist act to do the baffle swap.

Just make sure your gas cap is open if you go blowing air into the tank, and have less than 3/4 of a tank of fuel, preferrably less than 1/2. That air needs to go somewhere.

 

In that first pic the diff is removed, you can reach up around it to get the hose clamps off though.

 

Yeah I have looked into the baffle replacement as per the TSB and that's a huge hell nah for me dog.

I'll tackle this at some point. Might be an easy fix, or at least make the filling situation a tad better, if there is any debris to dislodge in the vent line.

 

You could also have an issue with the shutter valve on the fill neck, I've never personally seen that it's an issue but they did have a TSB on it. You can stick your air compressor nozzle into the main fill hole at the cap, stuff a rag around it tightly, then give it a couple shots of air to really open that baffle up a few times. Just don't use too much air or you'll balloon the tank or rip the rubber hose to the tank (you would have to go pretty crazy to do that).