Hi all:
I apologize in advance for starting a new thread on this, but haven't found a whole lot of information on P1084 - EXHAUST VALVE TIMING VOLTAGE CIRCUIT BANK 2. I did a search and found a few posts, and was even led to the large DIY Cam Position Sensor thread, which I read the entire thing, but still not sure if that sensor is my issue.
I have an '05 Sedan, 6MT, 110k miles. Light came on a couple of weeks ago. Car still seems to run and drive fine, but idles at 1000-1200 RPM instead of 700 RPM or so.
Is a bad drivers side cam sensor likely the culprit of my problem? Seem to find a lot of members getting the P0340 but not the P1084.
Thanks in advance for the help!
I apologize in advance for starting a new thread on this, but haven't found a whole lot of information on P1084 - EXHAUST VALVE TIMING VOLTAGE CIRCUIT BANK 2. I did a search and found a few posts, and was even led to the large DIY Cam Position Sensor thread, which I read the entire thing, but still not sure if that sensor is my issue.
I have an '05 Sedan, 6MT, 110k miles. Light came on a couple of weeks ago. Car still seems to run and drive fine, but idles at 1000-1200 RPM instead of 700 RPM or so.
Is a bad drivers side cam sensor likely the culprit of my problem? Seem to find a lot of members getting the P0340 but not the P1084.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Registered User
Never got that problem before, but according to the FSM it could be the camshaft sensor.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Seda...5_Sedan/ec.pdf
Check out page 438
Have you had any work done to the throttle body or try doing an idle relearn?
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Seda...5_Sedan/ec.pdf
Check out page 438
Have you had any work done to the throttle body or try doing an idle relearn?
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It's definitely the sensors
Better off replacing both (bank 1&2)
The problem will get increasingly worse. Trust me. As it progresses, a lot of guys claim their cars shutting off while driving, not turning over- lotta things. Replace both with OEM sensors and call it a day.
Better off replacing both (bank 1&2)
The problem will get increasingly worse. Trust me. As it progresses, a lot of guys claim their cars shutting off while driving, not turning over- lotta things. Replace both with OEM sensors and call it a day.
Registered User
The sensors are a pain in the *** to get to and replace BUT they are super easy to replace. Save the money and do this yourself in 30 minutes.
Thanks for the replies so far. I bought the car a little over a year ago, from the original owner, so really haven't had to do much to it yet. No throttle body work. I need to read up on this idle relearn process.
Sounds like the consensus so far is I should replace my cam sensors. I've read that thorough DIY write-up, so hopefully it isn't a difficult job to do. I'll definitely use OEM sensors.
I just hope I don't get the nightmare or replacing the sensors, then it throws off a different set of codes, which turns into a snowball impact of detecting problems.
Sounds like the consensus so far is I should replace my cam sensors. I've read that thorough DIY write-up, so hopefully it isn't a difficult job to do. I'll definitely use OEM sensors.
I just hope I don't get the nightmare or replacing the sensors, then it throws off a different set of codes, which turns into a snowball impact of detecting problems.
Registered User
You should be able to get the sensors from any auto parts store. From what I've read the manufacturer of those is the same as the OEM, so don't pay more if you don't have to. The sensors are not that complex to begin with.
Hello:
Thought I would post an update. Still frustrated and confused here, and have tried to research the answers on this site.
So I bought the OEM sensor (23731-AL61A). Since I struggled to get the old one out, I took it to a foreign auto repair garage. They replaced the sensor for me and the code P1084 immediately came back. They told me I supplied the wrong part. Stated I supplied the intake cam sensor and I needed to supply the exhaust cam position sensor.
I thought these cars just had TWO cam sensors and ONE crank sensor. I have the 6-speed and REV engine. Do the REV engines have more sensors? I'm not finding different cam sensors for exhaust and intake.
Where do I go from here? Thanks!
Thought I would post an update. Still frustrated and confused here, and have tried to research the answers on this site.
So I bought the OEM sensor (23731-AL61A). Since I struggled to get the old one out, I took it to a foreign auto repair garage. They replaced the sensor for me and the code P1084 immediately came back. They told me I supplied the wrong part. Stated I supplied the intake cam sensor and I needed to supply the exhaust cam position sensor.
I thought these cars just had TWO cam sensors and ONE crank sensor. I have the 6-speed and REV engine. Do the REV engines have more sensors? I'm not finding different cam sensors for exhaust and intake.
Where do I go from here? Thanks!
Registered User
I am having the same problem also. However my idle is only rough right when the SES light comes on. If i let the car sit for about 20 minutes, the idles is back to normal. I changed the cam sensor for bank 2 today and the light still came back. Very lost right now because there isnt much info on this P1084 code. Please update if you have found a solution.
Yes. I think the updates would up on being discussed on a different thread.
I learned after purchasing an '05 6MT that our cars (with REV engines) actually have four cam sensors.
On the drivers side, the exhaust sensor is straight while the intake sensor is angled. On the passenger side, the opposite is true.
Here is another post and check out page 101 of the .pdf
P1084 Exhaust Valve Timing Voltage Circuit Bank 2 HELP
http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/sedan/2006/ec.pdf
I learned after purchasing an '05 6MT that our cars (with REV engines) actually have four cam sensors.
On the drivers side, the exhaust sensor is straight while the intake sensor is angled. On the passenger side, the opposite is true.
Here is another post and check out page 101 of the .pdf
P1084 Exhaust Valve Timing Voltage Circuit Bank 2 HELP
http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/sedan/2006/ec.pdf
Registered User
Thanks. I already changed all 4 sensors and crank sensor and still getting the code for it. I'll check that one out.
Registered User
I literally had my car throw this code yesterday. I didn't experience any power issues, or notice an abnormal idle though. I babied it to both Advance and AutoZone and they both gave me the same code, and i did the DTC/ECM test and it spit out the same thing. Read that entire DIY Cam Sensor Thread and only a few people were getting the p1084 code, so I was skeptical.
I went ahead and scheduled an appointment to the stealership for Monday because I've seen mixed results about just changing the senor as a fix. Hopefully it wont cost an arm and a leg, but i have had good results in the past with my dealership getting work done at a very reasonable price, and without any hidden charges. I also have a coupon for around 20% off parts and labor.
I'll post back with an update, because I've also not been able to find someone who has posted an average price for something like this from a dealer.
I went ahead and scheduled an appointment to the stealership for Monday because I've seen mixed results about just changing the senor as a fix. Hopefully it wont cost an arm and a leg, but i have had good results in the past with my dealership getting work done at a very reasonable price, and without any hidden charges. I also have a coupon for around 20% off parts and labor.
I'll post back with an update, because I've also not been able to find someone who has posted an average price for something like this from a dealer.
Registered User
I had my bank 1 camshaft sensor go bad. Ses came on and vdc and slip light too. Had infiniti replace it all the lights are out and runs like new again! Go to infiniti and get the work done. Its worth it. I had a warranty so only cost $100.
Registered User
Okay, got the car back. The sensor was indeed faulty and they replaced it, and everything seems to be operating just fine. The part was like $114, and they calculated $150 worth of labor...which seems like a bit much. They were running a Christmas special on parts and labor, and I had a service coupon from the dealership so i ended up getting almost $100 off. So without the coupons I would have been looking at $270 +/-
Registered User
Quote:
That actually seems pretty fair for a dealer. I know it seems like a lot but you figure $100/hr + full retail on parts, it works out. An hour and a half seems legit for labor.Originally Posted by Mr. Exclusive
Okay, got the car back. The sensor was indeed faulty and they replaced it, and everything seems to be operating just fine. The part was like $114, and they calculated $150 worth of labor...which seems like a bit much. They were running a Christmas special on parts and labor, and I had a service coupon from the dealership so i ended up getting almost $100 off. So without the coupons I would have been looking at $270 +/-