As other have noted. your likely to see the loss of 1.5 quarts to 2.0 quarts over 3k miles. just keep a bottle or two handy.

As for synthetic. Synthetic is a better detergent oil. so I use it to keep crap out of my tiny oem oil channels that the oem vq35de is blessed with.

And on that topic : for the love of $%^&ing god. do NOT use 'engine restore' or any "compression restoration" additives. Especially engine restore... (check the maxima and 350z forums for the horror stories)

2nd .. not a fan of seafoming this THESE vq35de blocks. use at your own risk. personally. I would not ever use seafoam on the 2003-2007 vq35de blocks. the oil channels and variable valve turbine thingies are stupid tight and clog up nicely (check the maximuma forums)

 

Thanks for all the info. I will upgrade to synthetic and i will keep my eye on the oil level , thanks for the heads up everyone. I'm use to checking oil often since my previous car was a legacy gt hahah. Never used any engine restore or seafoam on my maximas and they all had over 150k, i think changing the oil on time is more then enough.

 

I use Royal Purple in my coupe. As a matter of fact I called Royal Purple regarding their oil. I told them I usually change my oil every 5000 thousand miles. They told me you can go 12,000 miles before changing their oil (of course I didn't try doing that) they said at 6000 thousand miles just add a quart and change the filter. Actually I did try that in a Honda Accord I had and the car ran beautiful. No rattles, no pings just smooth sailing. My G gets an oil change every 7000 miles. I've had no problems what so ever using Royal Purple.

 

I've used Mobil1 5w30 synthetic and a Mobil1 filter religiously since 20K miles, changed every 5K. I'm at 130K now. Oil consumption of about ~1/2-3/4 of a quart in total every 5K change interval. I keep it topped off as much as possible. Engine is just as smooth and strong as new and has plenty of life left.

 

I'm closing in on 183K miles. Bought my G35X 2006 with 57,000 miles, and it was a lease and I believe it was dealer-serviced so likely only ever saw dinosaur bone oil.

I immediately went to Mobile1, full synthetic, sometimes using 10W20 and sometimes 10W30. I do tend to burn about two quarts every 5K miles, but the engine is still very strong and smooth.

Some of that oil loss may be due to the fact I hit a tire in on the highway and busted out a good portion of the front end. Did my last oil change last week, laid under the car with it running to see where some oil seepage was coming out, and noticed that there was a very slow buildup of oil on the bottom edge of the oil filter lip, where it sits against its mounting surface. Probably got slightly dinged when I hit that tire a couple of years ago, so I really don't burn 2 quarts like I stated, but rather am losing it.

Bottom line, don't freak out about the oil. They're all pretty good, and the G seems pretty tolerant.

 

Sounds like your oil cooler o ring is leaking. A common problem and an easy fix. Next time you change your oil, replace the o ring. It only takes about 10 min.

 

Nissan recommends changing trans/diff fluids every 30K miles. However, living in a warm/dry climate I had a AT warning after two years and found my fluid dark/burnt. Now I change it every year, cheap insurance to keep my AT healthy...Gary

 

Thank for all the input guys. I will be switching to synthetic my next oil change.Not sure what brand yet, most likely castrol oe Pennzoil am going to change my differential and trans fluid since they both over do.

 

This is identical to my experience except I do not have as many miles on my 05 G35 MT. I essentially have no oil consumption. I buy the oil at Walmart when on sale and get discounts and coupons from Mobil. For some reason, Walmart does not seem to have these filters.

 

Cool. So it appears I'd just remove a single bolt holding the cooler to its mount. I take it there's no need to disconnect the coolant hose running to the cooler?

 

No need to disconnect the coolant lines. Just clean the area well and oil the new o ring b4 installing. This is true for RWD, I've not replaced one on an X. I think the oil cooler and filter are in a different orientation on the X.

 

They are.

On the RWD the cooler and filter face the passenger side wheel. On the AWD, there is a 90* mount so the cooler and filter face the front.

You can do it without draining coolant. A pair of vice grips on the coolant line will stop flow and allow you to disconnect the hoses. Just don't clamp too hard and cut the lines.

 

I didn't have to disconnect the lines. They oil cooler pulled back out of the way enough so that I could do the re & re.

 

It's a tad bit tight on the AWD. I had to disconnect one after clamping it.