Read back a few posts,vortech sent me a sci blower not the si I originally had paid for. My new blower should be here in less then a week then retuned on Aug 25. Should get a extra 4 psi

 

chargers back from vortech, dropped it at shop yesterday.

 

Wow! What BS. You're going to see an amazing increase going from the SCI to SI. I read about guys hitting 450WHP with the SI and a 3.12... That was on a DE. Yours will scream.

But wait, you didn't mention a RFS?

Are you a coupe or sedan driver?

I've heard it makes a difference because of the length of the fuel lines (fluid power ftw) I was planning to get a RFS for my sedan and was only hoping for 450WHP with a SI impeller and 3.12.

Did a lot of reading and concluded that it would be best for longevity and drivability at LT and idle to run a RFS. I see you're going with the 320LPH. Anybody agree or disagree with OP's setup? I would like to avoid spending $500 on a RFS if possible, but not if it will sacrifice drivability and longevity. Not trying to thread jack, it will benefit a lot of people to have another experienced opinion including OP. RT tuning repeatedly suggests no RFS is needed for me (greddy TT, 255 LPH, 450 WHP goal). I read otherwise.

 

Looking forward to the install. Please post your charts.

 

im usig dynosty for my tuner. when i was doing my build i explained my goals to them and they told me i did not need a rfs to hit my goals. my goal was a 500whp reliable daily. I also read a lot about rfs and thought that it was a must to achiece my goal. but from the previous dyno tuner said i had plenty of fuel left and that wasnt a issue. i imagine it wouldnt hurt thouhg and im sure with a rfs i could pick up a few more hp .good luck with your build . Im not done with mine yet, ill be ading NOS in the near future and a few other odds and ends

 

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? For most bolt on kits just injectors and maybe 255 fuel pump is all you need. A RFS is not necessary until you start installing bigger pumps.

 

i have no FPG, 255 wasnt enough for my goals, Im just building per Dynostys recommendation .

 

Just saw you had a 320, still in the acceptable range for stock fuel pressure regulator. Most Z/G guys dont get a RFS until 480 pump and 1000cc injectors.

 

if i go t trim ill get one or if its required for the NOS. havent spoke with tuner about nos yet since i cant buy that until i get my daughter a 4 wheeler

 

It is Nitrous, not NOS. But yes, you will have to upgrade eventually if you keep raising your power.

 

And yet you still knew what he meant. Derp.

 

actually its NOS Nitrous Oxide System, seeing i dont know wich one i ll be using .lol but thank you for splitting hairs

 

NOS is a name brand and what people call nitrous that watched far too much Fast and Furious. It is usually the very first giveaway that someone doesnt have a clue what they are talking about. You wouldnt say you are installing a Return Shell System. Unless you are actually installing a NOS brand system, you wont have NOS in your car.

 

when i say NOS im using a abbreviation for N.itrous O.xide S.ystem. i dont understand what your deal is man. I dont understand why you insist on being a keyboard cowboy. i know what im talking about but i do not know everything. I will ask my tuner if a return system is a good idea with nitrous oxide. I raced bikes for years and actually was sponsored to go pro , so i might know a little about going fast . maybe focus more on the topic and less on splitting hairs and being a dick

 

Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS) is a registered trademark name brand of Holly. It is not a general term, as you are using it. Similar to referring to all trash bags as Heftys or all sandwich bags as Ziplocks.

If you want to talk about splitting hairs, it is not an abbreviation either. It is an acronym.

Just saying, it you want to sound like you know what you are talking about, you should use the proper vernacular.