When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
No crank is usually a failed starter, however there is a start relay in the IPDM that can fail as well. Troubleshoot both, there is also a PNP switch on the transmission and if your gear shift indicator isn't working either (like the problem in this OP thread) then it might have failed as well.
While you were under your car did you notice if the fiber board shroud was missing and was your vehicle ever involved in a flood or driven in water or heavy rain lately?
no. But I recently had to change the battery fuse. Bc it was blown.
While you were under your car did you notice if the fiber board shroud was missing and was your vehicle ever involved in a flood or driven in water or heavy rain lately?
I also changed my radio to a double din and it worked fine then it was raining heavy last night and I’m having the same issue. The car starts and dies right away, the gear doesn’t show and when I press on the throttle it barely works.
Hi all. I was having this problem for the past two days with my 2006 G35 Automatic Sedan. I searched around the internet but everything was leading me to some kind of a faulty transmission sensor. Like everyone else here my electrical system seemed good as far as battery, starter, alternator. But no cranking and no gear indicator. Well I figured out what it was.
The first big clue was that my AT Control fuse was blown. It's a 10A in the IPDM fuse box behind the battery, marked on the cover. I replaced it and everything went back to normal. I went to the auto store and picked up some more fuses and went to my next destination. When I parked my car, I lost the indicator again and knew the fuse had blown.
So what my issue is, is that the Backup Lamp circuitry is on that same 10A fuse as my Transmission Control. I had installed a backup camera months previous and some parts of it's wire that tapped into my Backup Lamp power (as that makes it turn on whenever the car is in reverse) had rubbed through the insulation and was likely shorting to the body and blowing that fuse. I just ripped out all of the wiring for that and will re-do it better in the coming days.
But for anyone who is having this problem, check your AT Control fuse and if it's blown, then your car should be normal if you replace the fuse. And once you figure out what part of the wiring (backup lamp could be it, but also I heard from others that wiring in your gear shifter itself can wear out and short out).
Hi all. I was having this problem for the past two days with my 2006 G35 Automatic Sedan. I searched around the internet but everything was leading me to some kind of a faulty transmission sensor. Like everyone else here my electrical system seemed good as far as battery, starter, alternator. But no cranking and no gear indicator. Well I figured out what it was.
The first big clue was that my AT Control fuse was blown. It's a 10A in the IPDM fuse box behind the battery, marked on the cover. I replaced it and everything went back to normal. I went to the auto store and picked up some more fuses and went to my next destination. When I parked my car, I lost the indicator again and knew the fuse had blown.
So what my issue is, is that the Backup Lamp circuitry is on that same 10A fuse as my Transmission Control. I had installed a backup camera months previous and some parts of it's wire that tapped into my Backup Lamp power (as that makes it turn on whenever the car is in reverse) had rubbed through the insulation and was likely shorting to the body and blowing that fuse. I just ripped out all of the wiring for that and will re-do it better in the coming days.
But for anyone who is having this problem, check your AT Control fuse and if it's blown, then your car should be normal if you replace the fuse. And once you figure out what part of the wiring (backup lamp could be it, but also I heard from others that wiring in your gear shifter itself can wear out and short out).
I did do everything you did and it didn't work , what i can do ?? Can i reply with a vido?
I’m having the same problem except I got my car tuned its catless with full straight pipe drove for 3 days no problems running great then all sudden check engine light comes on I lose power meaning the car won’t rev but pedal was pushed half way and was going 5kmh and the dash display for gears wasn’t showing it’s blank then I turned off the car and it hasn’t started won’t crank or anything everything works like lights etc charged the battery but still nothing it’s got 12 V but no aps
I know this thread is pretty old but I might know what going on with a lot of the issues. in the transmission there is your valve body ASSY attached is a Shift indicator module which is directly responsible for telling you ECM what gear you're in on the automatic transmissions. this electric Diode sensor has a plastic nipple that sits in line with your gear shifter linkage and is always getting hot then cold so naturally will get brittle and if you have 150K+ miles it is not as strong as before so throwing your car into drive to hard will break it not allowing you to put it in park or neutral electronically you can still park it due to it being a manual linkage controlling the flow but the ECM will still read Drive or N/A (Blank on Dash) not a easy part to replace as not all valve body's have the same sensor some resistances are different if you would like a solid trouble shooing find your Neutral safety switch and jump it with a jumper wire see if it starts if so the issue is that part not communication to the ECM the PRND you are in the fix is homemade which i am in the process of doing ATM or you can go find the exact valve body drop the old on and install the new one warning if that nipple is not aligned up in the linkage and you go to shift you will destroy the nipple again. I will post pictures of the repair and the part and the location on the valve body.
I have fixed it I was checking all the relays and all the fuses pulled the ignition relay behind the battery might have been that fell out or I was checking the fuses in foot well then lost the start signal fuse got a feeling that I wanted to try and start the car and boom started right up no check engine light or at check
2 stages (in 2 days) for the symptoms of my '03 AT Sedan.
Day 1 - gear indicator not showing gear,
Tach (RPM) not working,
Warning for ABS and VDC on.
Wipers not working
Headlights not working when car was started, Working when motor off. Yes, the car would still start
Day2 All of the above, and car would crank, but not start.
TO FIX : Unplugged and took out the battery and let the compartment it was in DRY OUT. Yep, it was the water getting into the wiring. The seal around the windshield and the plastic pieces near the battery had gaps due to age that water was soaking into the main harness as shown in the pics below. I placed 40 mil poly lining on top of the harness, and kept in place by making holes on the liner that aligned with existing push tabs of plastic cowl/battery cover.. Wiring close to the fender and wrapped in foam was soaked Corner of windshield and plastic cow - with end of the wiper and near the hood has a gap that leads directly into the wiring in Pic1.