G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

What did you do to the G Sedan today?

Old Nov 5, 2016 | 01:04 PM
  #331  
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Originally Posted by eazdaskeez
As promised
Me like. Gonna look into that diffuser spring time. I sadly have to go into winter mode right now.
Originally Posted by cenzo6mt
Ewwwwww. Lol. Did you to change it through the hood or do you pop out the side panel by the glove box? I haven't looked into doing it yet but I'm going to now.
You have to take out the glove box. Its a lot of steps but pretty easy to do.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 05:09 PM
  #332  
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Landed myself a *free* Injen CAI so even though it wasn't on my mods list I just put it on.

I doubt it'll offer any improvement over the stock box but it looks kind of cool and I'm happy to get rid of the big box and associated clutter. Now I can inspect the belts, etc, without having to remove stuff.

Also replaced my driver's interior door panel, because the perforated leather was separating. Found a good used one.

I also at the same time found a set of really nice used OEM headlights (not for free though). Going to wait until the spring to swap the old yellow ones out. My car is HID and these ones are base model, so I think I have to do some slight mods to adapt them for the HID bulbs.

I have "restored" the stock lenses a couple of times, but after a few months they go back to dull and yellow. Probably the worst thing about my car.

Stoked to do this. Look how much nicer they are!
 
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Last edited by TheIronYuppy; Nov 6, 2016 at 05:13 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 05:15 PM
  #333  
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Originally Posted by TheIronYuppy
Landed myself a *free* Injen CAI so even though it wasn't on my mods list I just put it on.

I doubt it'll offer any improvement over the stock box but it looks kind of cool and I'm happy to get rid of the big box and associated clutter. Now I can inspect the belts, etc, without having to remove stuff.

Also replaced my driver's interior door panel, because the perforated leather was separating. Found a good used one.

I also at the same time found a set of really nice used OEM headlights (not for free though). Going to wait until the spring to swap the old yellow ones out. My car is HID and these ones are base model, so I think I have to do some slight mods to adapt them for the HID bulbs.

I have "restored" the stock lenses a couple of times, but after a few months they go back to dull and yellow. Probably the worst thing about my car.

Stoked to do this. Look how much nicer they are!
Go with sylvania... mine looked like that pic and look brand new now
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 05:21 PM
  #334  
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Did the same thing with refinishing them over and over again. Just said eff it and bought new lights and opened them up and put some projectors in them lol
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 05:49 PM
  #335  
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Originally Posted by eazdaskeez
Did the same thing with refinishing them over and over again. Just said eff it and bought new lights and opened them up and put some projectors in them lol
I had a quick look inside the "new" ones and from what I remember about changing my HID bulbs a couple of years ago there isn't too much involved with swapping them out. The bases should interchange pretty easily with the reflector housings.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2016 | 11:25 AM
  #336  
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Washed and waxed the inside and outside of my wheels and calipers:






 
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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 01:04 PM
  #337  
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Picked up a Beluga Racing Y-pipe locally yesterday, paid a muffler shop $30! to put it in today. For only $30, no reason to get under my car myself. Nominally louder, seems to have a bit more tone at lower end when accelerating. Not expecting any big gains or anything like that, just another piece in the puzzle.

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Old Dec 2, 2016 | 02:32 PM
  #338  
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Originally Posted by Scottwax
Picked up a Beluga Racing Y-pipe locally yesterday, paid a muffler shop $30! to put it in today. For only $30, no reason to get under my car myself. Nominally louder, seems to have a bit more tone at lower end when accelerating. Not expecting any big gains or anything like that, just another piece in the puzzle.

That's a whale of deal!
 
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 06:52 PM
  #339  
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Had a mini G/Z meet
What did you do to the G Sedan today?-20161210_162911.jpg
What did you do to the G Sedan today?-20161210_164922.jpg
 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 02:55 AM
  #340  
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lol Illa, you guys look like you're freezing and I expected you to be from somewhere up in the Northeast then I look at your post heading and damn, Orlando!!
 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 10:01 AM
  #341  
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Yeah, We were definitely freezing. Lol. I moved to Nashville a little over a month ago because a good job opportunity for my wife and i so I connected with this G/Z group out here. Next year we got plans
 
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 02:04 AM
  #342  
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- Oil & filter change
- Hotchkis Sway Bars (front & rear)
- New endlinks (front & rear)
- New lower control arms (drivers side)
- New lower ball joint (drivers side)

Anyone ever done an upper control arm on a G35x? Those are next...and then an alignment.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 09:02 AM
  #343  
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Originally Posted by Benja455
- Oil & filter change
- Hotchkis Sway Bars (front & rear)
- New endlinks (front & rear)
- New lower control arms (drivers side)
- New lower ball joint (drivers side)

Anyone ever done an upper control arm on a G35x? Those are next...and then an alignment.
What lower balljoint did you use?


And did you press in the balljoint while still on the car? Or did you remove the whole knuckle and press the balljoint while it was off the car?


By the way I'm in the process of rebuilding the entire suspension on this car. Instead of guessing where all the noises are at, I'm just replacing everything.

So far I have done all of this myself:

Front and Rear Shocks with new mounts and springs
Compression Rod Arms (Not just the bushing itself)
Lower Control Arm Bushings
Upper Control Arms

Here is one of my new front shock assemblies I built. If you're replacing the front shocks I recommend getting new oem mounts and insulators. I went to the dealer only to find out Infiniti has revised the front upper shock mounts. Much better single piece design:





Still need to do the lower balljoints and endlinks.
 

Last edited by Fire0nic3; Dec 12, 2016 at 09:10 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 05:54 PM
  #344  
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Originally Posted by Fire0nic3
What lower balljoint did you use?

And did you press in the balljoint while still on the car? Or did you remove the whole knuckle and press the balljoint while it was off the car?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't think it was really necessary to use the Energy Suspension boots - but that's what everyone kept recommending - and they were cheap ($10ish). Keep in mind that you will not get a new cone adapter/sleeve thing for the lower ball joint with those. I was planning to reuse the original one until I realized that new ones came with the lower control arms/compression rods (I got the Mevotech ones and they look/feel great).

The lower ball joint on the drivers side was so seized into the socket of the front lower control arm/compression rod (whatever you want to call it) that we actually had to cut the entire sleeve around it and then press it out - it was nuts...but yes, we did it while it was on the car.

Originally Posted by Fire0nic3
By the way I'm in the process of rebuilding the entire suspension on this car. Instead of guessing where all the noises are at, I'm just replacing everything.

So far I have done all of this myself:

Front and Rear Shocks with new mounts and springs
Compression Rod Arms (Not just the bushing itself)
Lower Control Arm Bushings
Upper Control Arms

Here is one of my new front shock assemblies I built. If you're replacing the front shocks I recommend getting new oem mounts and insulators. I went to the dealer only to find out Infiniti has revised the front upper shock mounts. Much better single piece design:





Still need to do the lower balljoints and endlinks.
Do you have a link for the OEM mounts and OEM insulators? I looked for the insulators but couldn't find them.

Also, if you're doing the endlinks and happen to go aftermarket (Moog, for example), inspect the zerk fittings as soon as you the parts in hand. One of my rear endlinks sat for a few months before I had a chance to install it and when we pulled it out of the box - we realized the zerk fitting had broken off - fortunately we found a replacement locally but if we hadn't, it would have been a serious problem (I am still out of the $25 I paid for the part several months ago, can't return it this late).

How was it to do those upper control arms?
 
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 08:39 PM
  #345  
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Originally Posted by Benja455
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't think it was really necessary to use the Energy Suspension boots - but that's what everyone kept recommending - and they were cheap ($10ish). Keep in mind that you will not get a new cone adapter/sleeve thing for the lower ball joint with those. I was planning to reuse the original one until I realized that new ones came with the lower control arms/compression rods (I got the Mevotech ones and they look/feel great).

The lower ball joint on the drivers side was so seized into the socket of the front lower control arm/compression rod (whatever you want to call it) that we actually had to cut the entire sleeve around it and then press it out - it was nuts...but yes, we did it while it was on the car.


I also read the reviews on that balljoint in the comments and people said they don't fit AWD sedans?


Do you have a link for the OEM mounts and OEM insulators? I looked for the insulators but couldn't find them.

Also, if you're doing the endlinks and happen to go aftermarket (Moog, for example), inspect the zerk fittings as soon as you the parts in hand. One of my rear endlinks sat for a few months before I had a chance to install it and when we pulled it out of the box - we realized the zerk fitting had broken off - fortunately we found a replacement locally but if we hadn't, it would have been a serious problem (I am still out of the $25 I paid for the part several months ago, can't return it this late).

How was it to do those upper control arms?


Thanks for the info.


Upper control arms are extremely easy. The front shocks have to be removed to access both bolts on the inner part of the upper control arm. after you remove those two bolts and the bolt to the balljoint on the upper control arm, it just comes right out.

Here is the part numbers for the Front Left and Right Spring Insulators and mounts:

Front Left Spring Insulator:

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/2006...546-124060.htm

Front Right Spring Insulator:

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/2006...546-124065.htm

Front Left Upper Shock Mount:

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/2006...546-124048.htm

Front Right Upper Shock Mount:

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com/2006...546-124061.htm


Those front upper shock mounts are kind of pricey at $58 a side, but they have been revised and I could see them wearing out anyways as they are packed with a bushing and metal bearings inside. If you're going to spend the time to change the whole shock and insulator, might as well do everything. I just happen to do the springs because I put coupe springs on my sedan to lower it a bit. By the way those links I provided are for the 04-06 G35x sedan. So you should be good for your 05!


By the way did you run into trouble with space to fit your balljoint press on the knuckle to press the lower balljoint out? I notice the axle is in the way cause it sits sort of above the lower balljoint. How did you get your press to fit into that tight space?
 

Last edited by Fire0nic3; Dec 12, 2016 at 08:44 PM.
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