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Just after two months of ownership, it threw me a P0420. The mechanic took a look and said it is the catalytic converter (105k). Is it because I put 89 octane gas that ruined it? The graph below is when I hold the engine at 2000rpm. People were saying engine must have some issues that causes the cat to die?
I've read that it is possible to get a used cat from owner non-CA owners, but will it last? or I should get a new one from Magnaflow? Sorry for the huge amount of questions.
update: the cat that I'm looking into is this one from Magnaflow
No it has nothing to do with the octane of the fuel.
The first thing to check, make sure you don't have an exhaust leak between the headers and the catalytic converter on bank 2.
You need to investigate those O2 sensors more also, the only one on the graphs that are functioning properly is the B1S2. Test B1S1 and B2S1 at idle (do them both even though you only have a code for bank2) and make sure they cycle properly. Test your B1S2 and B2S2 sensors at 2000-3000 rpm and you need to hold the rpm's for about 3 minutes while you watch the logs.
Catalytic converters die because of the zinc and phosphates in the motor oil, as the engine burns oil it destroys the cats. They also die if there is a fueling problem and you are running rich which causes them to overheat and melt in sections. You can remove the cats and look down the ends with a borescope or inspection mirror and a flashlight and look for melted spots on the honeycomb.
Cleric, what leads you to believe the other 3 sensors aren't behaving properly? Your O2 signal should change based on the throttle response, but at a constant RPM (say, when in cruise control) your voltages should stay relatively constant, with minor fluctuations.
My first sensors on both banks mirror yours; bank 1 sensor 1 is always around 0.3V, bank 2 sensor 1 around 0.55V. No performance issues whatsoever, I get above EPA rated fuel economy as well as more than what 90% of people report on this forum.
No it has nothing to do with the octane of the fuel.
The first thing to check, make sure you don't have an exhaust leak between the headers and the catalytic converter on bank 2.
You need to investigate those O2 sensors more also, the only one on the graphs that are functioning properly is the B1S2. Test B1S1 and B2S1 at idle (do them both even though you only have a code for bank2) and make sure they cycle properly. Test your B1S2 and B2S2 sensors at 2000-3000 rpm and you need to hold the rpm's for about 3 minutes while you watch the logs.
Catalytic converters die because of the zinc and phosphates in the motor oil, as the engine burns oil it destroys the cats. They also die if there is a fueling problem and you are running rich which causes them to overheat and melt in sections. You can remove the cats and look down the ends with a borescope or inspection mirror and a flashlight and look for melted spots on the honeycomb.
here is the graph when it is idling
and here is one when I attempted to hold at 2000-3000rpm, but I'm afraid it will be too noisy for the neighbor, I did not hold long enough... the huge dips are from me releasing the throttle.
From what I check, it did not burn any oil. I did asked on another chatroom and someone said it looks like one of the cylinder is running rich? so new spark plugs? Wish I can remove and inspect them, but I don't even have a floor jack, unless I can borrow one from my friend, but the virus and social distancing...
Cleric, what leads you to believe the other 3 sensors aren't behaving properly? Your O2 signal should change based on the throttle response, but at a constant RPM (say, when in cruise control) your voltages should stay relatively constant, with minor fluctuations.
My first sensors on both banks mirror yours; bank 1 sensor 1 is always around 0.3V, bank 2 sensor 1 around 0.55V. No performance issues whatsoever, I get above EPA rated fuel economy as well as more than what 90% of people report on this forum.
True on the oil consumption causing the cats to go bad. We have a 2AZFE that I rebuilt from the known oil consumption problem and it destroyed the catalytic converter.
True on the oil consumption causing the cats to go bad. We have a 2AZFE that I rebuilt from the known oil consumption problem and it destroyed the catalytic converter.
interesting...though mine doesn't seem to be burning oil. When I first bought the car, I checked the oil every week.
I had an anomaly P0420 on an old Honda a few years ago. Code came up, I cleared it and it never came back. However, a few years later the internals completely failed and it created a gnarly banging/rattling noise. Honeycomb completely dislodged.
When I bought my G the previous owner noted that he had a P0420 come up several years prior to my purchase of the car from him. He said he cleared it, and it never came back. I haven't had an issue, passed CA smog perfectly for the title transfer. The cats do rattle a little bit when cold, but thus far no CEL. My smog is due in October, so I am thinking about putting HFC on after I (hopefully) pass.
I had an anomaly P0420 on an old Honda a few years ago. Code came up, I cleared it and it never came back. However, a few years later the internals completely failed and it created a gnarly banging/rattling noise. Honeycomb completely dislodged.
When I bought my G the previous owner noted that he had a P0420 come up several years prior to my purchase of the car from him. He said he cleared it, and it never came back. I haven't had an issue, passed CA smog perfectly for the title transfer. The cats do rattle a little bit when cold, but thus far no CEL. My smog is due in October, so I am thinking about putting HFC on after I (hopefully) pass.
interesting, was your Honda making noises before the clearing the code? I guess some noises are hard to hear since I've been monitoring mine and doesn't seem to have anything broken inside the cat. I'm jealous that you can install a HFC, can't do it here in Cali
wondering should I still pour a bottle of cataclean since I've ordered one a while back...
interesting, was your Honda making noises before the clearing the code? I guess some noises are hard to hear since I've been monitoring mine and doesn't seem to have anything broken inside the cat. I'm jealous that you can install a HFC, can't do it here in Cali
wondering should I still pour a bottle of cataclean since I've ordered one a while back...
Made no noise prior to the check engine light, and like I said it was fine for years until one night it grenaded itself.
Yeah, lol I'm in Cali. Apparently the Kinetix HFC have passed the 'sniffer' exhaust testing in CA. One of my local smog locations hasn't ever checked the exhaust for modifications, just a glance under the hood for aftermarket intakes, etc.
Now, Im not sure how long you've had your G, but do you recall it needing a 'STAR' smog? If I need to get a STAR smog, then I may be a bit more hesitant to put on HFC.
Made no noise prior to the check engine light, and like I said it was fine for years until one night it grenaded itself.
Yeah, lol I'm in Cali. Apparently the Kinetix HFC have passed the 'sniffer' exhaust testing in CA. One of my local smog locations hasn't ever checked the exhaust for modifications, just a glance under the hood for aftermarket intakes, etc.
Now, Im not sure how long you've had your G, but do you recall it needing a 'STAR' smog? If I need to get a STAR smog, then I may be a bit more hesitant to put on HFC.
ohh, I'll take a look at their HFC. It will be very useful someday. I've own mine for about five months. No idea there is such a thing call "STAR" smog
"All this means is that the DMV has chosen your vehicle to be inspected at a STAR certified smog station which is monitored closely by the BAR and must conform to high standards established by the Bureau of Automotive Repairs." https://www.smogtips.com/star-smog-c...on-program.cfm
Basically, make/models that have higher frequency of failing smogs tests have to go to a 'star' smog test. Not to mention, the last 'star' smog I got was $75. Normal ones are about half that
To my knowledge, with the 'star' test means they put the car on a roller/dyno to test the tail pipe emissions, while normally they just test the tailpipe emissions and check for CEL codes at idle.
04-04-2020, 12:33 AM
. Apparently the Kinetix HFC have passed the 'sniffer' exhaust testing in CA. One of my local smog locations hasn't ever checked the exhaust for modifications, just a glance under the hood for aftermarket intakes, etc. 
