Another Rattle Thread *VIDEO*
Another Rattle Thread *VIDEO*
Im on bc coils, changed lower control arms, ball joints, compression rod bushings, nothing helped it. put in new resonated test pipes and y pipe, still rattles. it sounds like its coming from in the wheel wells. Loudest on cold starts, and if i warm it up for 5 minutes before driving it only rattles very little at take off. rattles only in drive and reverse, never in park.
yes i leak and burn oil. yes i check and change oil regularly. drove it about 17k miles now. problem started in last 1.5k miles and is getting worse. bc coils were installed roughly 7k miles ago, and all other suspension work was done in the last 1.5k miles.
anyone had a similar noise like this figured out? would love to get rid of it
yes i leak and burn oil. yes i check and change oil regularly. drove it about 17k miles now. problem started in last 1.5k miles and is getting worse. bc coils were installed roughly 7k miles ago, and all other suspension work was done in the last 1.5k miles.
anyone had a similar noise like this figured out? would love to get rid of it
It would increase under hood temps if you did remove them. Maybe it's just a loose bolt, causing rattling? If so, hopefully you can just snug it up.
Hope you have small hands/arms, though -- the heatshields are tough to reach. If you look up header install videos on YouTube, it will give you a good idea of what to expect to get to them since they need to be removed to unbolt the stock header from the block when installing new ones. If you've got the right tools and don't have have large hands/arms, you wouldn't need to drain your coolant/remove the coolant pipes on the side of the engine to get to them. It'd include either reaching thru from the top in the engine bay or going up from the bottom with the car up on jackstands/a lift.
Hope you have small hands/arms, though -- the heatshields are tough to reach. If you look up header install videos on YouTube, it will give you a good idea of what to expect to get to them since they need to be removed to unbolt the stock header from the block when installing new ones. If you've got the right tools and don't have have large hands/arms, you wouldn't need to drain your coolant/remove the coolant pipes on the side of the engine to get to them. It'd include either reaching thru from the top in the engine bay or going up from the bottom with the car up on jackstands/a lift.
unfortunately i have long arms and fingers lol. I will try and tighten what I can, but i asked my gf's mom's fiance whos a mechanic, and he thinks it may be engine mounts. This makes sense to me considering it only rattles in drive and reverse, not in park.
Does this make sense to anyone else? if the mounts are bad and the motor is not under load it wouldnt make noise, but if the engine is under load it will shift around more and expose how bad the mounts are?
Does this make sense to anyone else? if the mounts are bad and the motor is not under load it wouldnt make noise, but if the engine is under load it will shift around more and expose how bad the mounts are?
Last edited by haynV35; Aug 4, 2020 at 03:24 PM.
Motor mounts typically give a clunking noise on hard acceleration/reversing, not so much a constant drone/vibration. Listening to your video I don't think it has anything to do with your suspension, I would also start with the heat shields and see if they're loose.
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