Hey Guys,
A lot to unpack here i suppose. I'll try my best to break it down but as of today this g35 with 240k miles on it started stalling on me as i was idle waiting for a light or just in my driveway. Didn't happen before but I've only had this car for 3 weeks bought it off a friend who upgraded to a 2017 q60. My goal was to buy this car from him fix the minor issues and then gift it to another friend. The issues before were the abs/vdc/slip lights were on (code reader indicated right rear sensor). Replaced the abs speed sensor and that issue went away. Started getting a weird jerk/nudge and someone indicated an alignment check and steering wheel angle sensor calibration (haven't gotten a chance to do that yet). The other issue was that the passenger window would not go up or down ordered a used regulator/motor and swapped it and it worked. The only other issue at the time was with the radio hitting bumps, pot holes etc would cause the radio to go in / out. So i took the radio out noticed a bunch of grounding wires were twisted together but not capped so i capped them and the radio doesn't do that anymore. So i guess we are up to speed.


Issue:
So today went to a glass repair place to replace the windshield since the glass had bad water spots, micro pitting or something that regardless of what i tried i could not remove. After getting the windshield replaced drove to my job and on the way the car stalled while i was waiting at a light. Spent an hour or so there then headed home. home was roughly 30 minutes or so away and when i got to my driveway the car stalled. Ran my code reader and i received a C1111 error indicating pump motor. Now i did receive that error message on the 17th when i was trying to figure out my jerk/nudge issue. i received that error after removing the fuse for the vdc which i ended up adding the fuse back but clearing the code and when the car stalls and running my reader i get that c1111 code which from what i can tell shouldn't cause the car to stall. But later on i drove to home depot car stalled once on the way it would've stalled more but with foot on brake and other foot giving it gas it didn't. Once i parked at home depot parking lot the car stalled and I could hear a ticking noise seemed to be coming from the passenger door as if it was possibly trying to lock/unlock or something not sure it just was a ticking noise. Drove home afterwards and when i got into the driveway the car stalled when i parked i started it up again and it stalled shortly after. The rpms are relatively idling at 700 and then randomly it stalls.

What I've tried:
Tested the battery with car off i am at 12.5 volts to 12.9. Turning the car on the volts dip to 10.4 before going to 14. something. Turning the lights, ac, radio, etc on the volts don't dip they stay at 14. something. I notice the lights dim when putting the windows up/down especially the passenger window. Tried it a few times with the car on and it stalled. Had my girlfriend come out and try the passenger window up and down a few times while i checked the battery with the multimeter. She had to do it a bunch of times but it did stall the volts went from 14 something down to like 13.6 or so didn't drop below 13.

Conclusion: No error lights just the c1111 power motor code which seems to be abs related. when it stalls the oil, battery, brake and service engine soon lights come on. When the car starts up all the lights come on and go away.
Not sure exactly what is going on battery (3 years old) seems fine even though back on oct 6th i did get a c1109 error saying battery voltage abnormal but haven't received that since then. Seems like the alternator could be ok as well didn't try any other means on testing the alt also it was getting dark and since this car is still new to me I'd have to remove some stuff to get to the alt i take it and I'm not sure if the alt wire is loose or anything. The positive battery terminal can spin if you try to force it i can't seem to get it any tighter but it does not come off of the battery post so it is holding on rather tight. The issue only started today and I've used it daily for 3 weeks now. Any thoughts, ideas, or directions would be greatly appreciated let me know if you want me to look or check for something I'll try to do my best. It worked fine prior to taking it to the windshield replacement people not sure their full process but aside from removing the glass messing with the rear view not seeing what else they could've fiddled about with that could have caused any issues. I'm guessing perhaps they may have needed to disconnect the battery? Anyway thanks so much for any help that you guys could provide. Also i took pictures of the battery terminals I'll have them added below for the positive picture it looks like a wire is missing but have no idea what or where.

 

First off, fix this. Terminals need to be tight. Don't go full bear mode, but they shouldn't budge at all. The terminals are tapered, so I'd try loosening the terminal, then use one hand and push down on the terminal as you tighten the fastener on it.
Check the grounding points, the (-) terminal, as well as the ground strap that runs from under the coolant reservoir to the timing cover. I checked my (+) terminal, and I only have one cable just like your is
An ECU reset & idle relearn won't hurt.
Crank and cam sensors are notorious for failing on VQ's, but I'd think you'd have a check engine light indicating them as faulty.

 

Thank you for responding. I'll look into those things.!

 

I disconnected the battery for like 2 hours then i connected the terminal pressed down and was able to tighten it and now it doesn't move! i warmed up the car and it stalled a few times but i got it to optimal and i tried to do the idle relearn process but kept stalling was finally able to get it to do the process but after it was done it ended up stalling. when revving up the engine it felt like leaves or something going through the tail pipe or something just felt like rattling saw smoke coming out of the tail pipe but like regular looking smoke because its cooler out here or something. tried to check the connections i took the engine cover off will take a look more so a bit later but so far not seeing anything that would look out of the ordinary.

 

think i got it. I took the intake off and cleaned the maf and the throttle body area even though the intake and those things looked fine. then i did the idle relearn left the car on for 10 or more minutes didn't stall. i do get that c1111 pump motor error still though but i guess that's another headache i gotta deal with. thanks for the help guys i will let you know if the issue comes back.

 

I think you still have an electrical issue behind the dash, the ground connection is literally just as important as the power connection. I don't know what you used to fix the splice but it should either be solder and crimped/capped (preferrably) or using a quality wire nut that is then TAPED to prevent loosening (stadard in the electrical industry for motor connections that are subject to a lot of vibration).

ABS pump motor is fairly simple to diagnose, roll down your driver window and listen carefully when you first drive off in the car after starting it. As soon as the vehicle reaches 5mph you should hear a 1 second duration "grinding" sound coming from the ABS motor. If you don't hear the sound then it's not operable for whatever reason, steps to troubleshoot are in the FSM.

 

Hey, yea for the head unit ground splicing he did i had a cap big enough for it and capped it and made sure no wires were loose or came out. he also had some other wires just spliced like front speaker wire or something but whatever i saw i capped to make sure no more loose wiring.

I will do that abs pump motor test if i recall i have heard that. The C1111 pump motor code after i cleaned the maf and throttle body and the car stopped stalling i cleared that c1111 code and drove around for hours and i checked twice throughout the night and the code did not come back. I think the car stalling was what was triggering the c1111 pump motor error and once got that got resolved it hasn't come back on. I will do that abs motor test and will keep checking for codes.