G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Transgo Shift Kit - Cold Weather Reliability

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Old 08-12-2021, 01:45 PM
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Transgo Shift Kit - Cold Weather Reliability

Hi everyone,

I've just received my Transgo Shift Kit RE5R05A-HD2 for my 2005 G35x. Currently 116,500 miles on the odometer (187,500 km). I have read numerous threads on the shift kit and I am willing to sacrifice a smidge of luxurious daily driving for the spirited manumatic shifting. I am comfortable and prepared to install the shift kit myself.

Something I didn't think of until yesterday, is the reliability and general operation of the transmission with shift kit installed in cold weather. I live in Canada and we see -40 degree temperatures every January/February, with -20 degree temperatures (Celsius) on average for ~ 3-4 months of the year in winter. Any transmission is sluggish when cold, and I've read that our AT's with the shift kit installed are far more sluggish with jerky gear changes in the cold.

I'm looking for insight from someone who has installed the shift kit in your AT, and lives in a cold climate. How has it held up over the years, how many km have you put on the transmission with the kit installed, is it just like a normal transmission where after ~10 minutes it acts normal, does it clank and bang like hell in the cold?

Any information is helpful and appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 08-12-2021, 07:44 PM
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We get -20C here where I live pretty regularly and it's not a problem with various other shift-kitted transmissions.

Yes it will return to normal shift characteristics after 10min or so when the tranny temps rise.

The only issue I've seen with shift kit auto's in the winter is the faster engagement tends to break the tires loose on snowy roads. I think that's the real question you should ask, how will this affect my show/ice winter driving and personally I wouldn't shift kit a car that was a daily driver in those conditions unless it was AWD. Since you have an X I think it could go either way, our traction control is VERY fast to respond and pull throttle plus the ATTESA system has an excellent reputation for all weather conditions.

I think it would be fine but someone who's actually used it in those conditions can give more input.
 
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Old 08-13-2021, 11:31 AM
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I live in the northeast US and the average lows in the winter are -10 to -15C. We get a reasonable amount of snow but the road crews get it off the streets pretty quickly so I've probably only driven on snow once or twice since i installed the kit in my X a couple years ago. But at low-ish RPM where i'd likely be driving in snowy conditions the shift behavior feels pretty close to stock and isn't any problem. The car is an absolute boss on snowy and slushy roads. I don't remember any flaky behavior just because of cold temps. But you'll quickly learn to recognize any spots where the behavior is unpleasant and just naturally avoid them. Like reversing quickly out of the driveway and quickly back into D with a quick stab of throttle will produce a bang for me in any temps. So I just don't do that.
 
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Old 08-13-2021, 03:28 PM
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We get a ton of snow and it is not cleared as often as you say. It's common to be driving through 1-3 inches of snow constantly, and when we get dumps you're pushing through 8 inches.

I agree with the both of you. Regardless of a shift kit, I am not driving aggressively in the winter (AWD or not) because you're asking to go sideways into a car or curb.

As for the bang with quick change of gear, my car does that right now and has ever since I bought it at 68k miles. I go R --> N --> D and vice versa, and its smooth as butter.

Appreciate the feedback Barnett.
 
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Old 08-13-2021, 04:56 PM
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Have you ever replaced your rear diff bushing?
 
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Old 08-13-2021, 04:59 PM
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I have not. That is the ONLY remaining item on my car I've gone back and forth on with replacing.

The clunk I hear when going from R-->D or D-->R really fast sounds like is coming from the transmission directly underneath me. It could be from the diff bushing and the vibrations are propogating through the driveshaft however.

I have been under my car numerous times and my rear diff bushing is not busted with no leaking fluid down the rear subframe. I want to replace it for performance purposes, and the fact that it will likely fail in the future.
 
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Old 08-13-2021, 06:20 PM
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I can almost guarantee it failed long ago, most have leaked their guts out by 50k miles, then fast forward another 50k miles and all that residue is long gone.

I would replace the diff bushings first, especially since the shift kit is going to hammer those bushings even more.

Consider adding the Z1 motorsports subframe collars as well, they make the subframe about 50% stiffer than stock based on my scientifically measured "grab it with both hands and shake violently" method.
 
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Old 08-13-2021, 06:28 PM
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Good point. I may have to replace both items together. I would be going with the kit that replaces the two front diff bushings as well. I've watched videos and it looks like a **** job to cut out the bushing collar, and I don't feel like paying over a hundred dollars for the diff bushing "removal kit".

Haven't seen this subframe collar you're talking about... I'll check it out.
 
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Old 08-13-2021, 06:38 PM
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I've done 5 rear diff bushings, honestly cutting that collar out of the subframe is one of the easiest parts. The race of the OEM bushing is aluminum, just cut 3 slits in it about 1/4" apart and then use a hammer/screwdriver to knock those slits out, then you can "fold the edge in on itself" and it pops right out.

Use a regular holesaw to remove the rubber, You can use a flat screwdriver but it takes too long. Once the rubber is out use the screwdriver/hammer to remove the rubber right at the edge of the race where you're going to make your cut.

It takes about 5 seconds with a sawzall to make one of the cuts, it cuts SUPER easy so don't just go to town like you're cutting through steel, it's very VERY easy to overcut. Try to not cut all the way through the race.

The only thing the diff bushing removal kit is good for is the first size puller than rips out the rubber part of the bushing, but it's just as easy to use a holesaw to cut it out. You will need to holesaw from both sides usually so I STRONGLY recommend removing the muffler.

Taking the muffler off is far more work than removing the existing bushing.
 
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