felt tape is your friend

 

I hate to break it to you but whenever I hear some punk at a stop light with his music cranked, it is the same thing. It may sound good to him inside(or just wants to be noticed) but outside I laugh cause it just rattles and rattles and sounds rediculous. Not everyone wants to hear what they are playing.Each to their own but this car needs no help in the stereo department.

 

mine has rattles even with the stock bose system

 

dynamat doesn't stop rattles. It may help, but if your trunk can rattle it will. Dynamat is designed to deaden sound from going out your car, and also deaden outside noises... We just dynamat extreme all over my friend's honda accord coupe (doors, trunk lid, trunk floor, inner walls of the trunk) and that car still rattled like crazy, just slightly less...

 

I know my front doors sound nasty when I have the volume pretty high.

Makes me wanna listen to music more softly.

 

Interesting responses i get back from you guys.

First off, its annoying now because now the roof is rattling like a broken subwoofer, then my amp died (guess it didnt really survive the 300C car accident very well).

I really dont care how it sounds outside near the trunk lid on most of my cars because it doesnt carry into the inside of the vehicle.

I took apart almost every panel in the rear of the car, and i cant stop the rattling.

What i dont understand is how other people have put in the subwoofers without the annoying crap from teh rear of the vehicle.

AND NO THE FACTORY BOSE ON WHEELS is not up to my standards. I need the aftermarket stereo upgrade to make it up to my taste. In my 300C i had a $600 pair of components just for the front end.

 

sub position could play a huge roll in your amount of rattles. whether you have your two 12s firing up or back could be the cause. i drive an 04 coupe and i have 1 RF P3 15 pushing 1000. when i first installed it i just threw my box in firing up and i thought i had severely fd up the box i buit somehow because it was rattling everything so badly. i was about to give up on it concluding that a 15 was a stupid idea for a g coupe but i decided to put 1.5" feet on my box and set it up down firing. it immediately fixed everything, my car and bass sounded fantastic. about a week later after really pushing the bass i started to get very minor rattles. im awaiting my b-quiet ultimate order to arrive but but i strongly suggest trying to set up your subs down firing

 

My subs are firing backwards. But the funny thing is, somehting in the headliner near the rear window is vibrating like a broken sub.

I am going to use some nails and nail it shut hahah!! seriously, my simple fix was to tune the bass **** lower for normal listening levels. I am starting to get a headache from the bass!

 

Completely agree.

.

 

In one of my previous vehicles (Explorer), i had 2 JL W6v2 12's running off 1200 Watt Alpine amp, MB Quart Q-series components in each door pushed by a 75X4 watt Alpine. WOW. After 2 days, i heard EVERYTHING rattling. Doors, headliner, roof, tailgate, even the damm floor rattled. I gutted the interior to the sheetmetal and placed rediculous amounts of dynomat extreme everywhere. 2 layers on all doors, 1 on the floor, 2 on the roof, and 3 around the whole cargo bay and tailgate. after all that time (and a ton of cash sent to the company) the car sounded perfect. Not 1 unintended sound inside, and the only rattle outside was the rear window wiper, and that was cured with a rubber band. (i know i know, ghetto, but almost 5G on sound system, and the SQ result made the color matched (thank you sharpie) rubber band an afterthought)

Long winded point is---if you use dynomat properly, and use enough to deaden the sound waves escaping from where you dont want them to, it will alleviate all your irritants. Also, FYI, if/when you dynomat, at all seams run a thin bead of silicone caulk at the seams between dynomat pieces, even if you THINK you have them installed seamlessly. If you are doing multiple layers, overlapping at these seams on any layer is a no no. Do the same at all 90 degree seams, such as from trunk floor to trunk wall, or your bass will escape out into the taillight housings, or the spare tire well. Good luck. With the X-ploder it took almost 2 weeks off of the road from start to end. Obviously my timeframe is including the car being garaged away from my home location, and working 40 hour weeks, plus 6 hours on saturdays. If I had all of my time to devote to this project, i guesstimate that it would have taken me maybe 4 days, from breakdown to drive out.

FYI--If you pay someone to do the installation, look to see your costs balloon maybe 100 to 175% over just the cost of materials. It is a time consuming, and exacting process. The dynomat MUST follow all contours of the sheet metal of your panels will never sit back properly, and you will get rattles from that, thereby wasting all of your efforts.

 

+1...i always laugh when i hear their license plate banging away from the subs lol

 

Curious, why would that be funny? There isnt much you can do about the license plate or panels vibrating when you ahve that much power feeding the subs.

Imagine what 3000watts pressing up against the panels would look like.

 

After some more seat time in my G, I must retract my previous statement. This car rattles worse than my old 2k2 Maxima. The headliner rattles like crazy and that's with the SOW. I think most of this could have been alleviated by putting more foam material between the headliner and the roof.

 

G35: Paint sucks. Car rattles.

Good thing everything else is freakin awesome.

 

The Bose system suits my needs just fine, no rattles at all even when cranked. My friend has subs in his Mercedes C-Class and the thing is a complete rattle box. From the outside it sounds like all of the exterior panels are just going to fall off the car.

From the inside it doesn't sound too bad when at moderate volumes, although the back rattles a lot.