2nd Gen Random Little Question Thread!
#121
#123
I wouldn't see any reason why it wouldn't.
BUT, you could always just see if the part numbers for them are the same; you might even find them online with the help of google. . . . OR, you could contact one of our resident inhouse sponsors from various dealerships (Phil @Grubs, et al) and ask them to double check for you. . .OR you could call a local Infiniti dealership on the phone aand ask them to check for you...OR you could call a local bodyshop and have them run the part numbers through their estimating database and they should be able to tell if the body parts are the same.
.02
BUT, you could always just see if the part numbers for them are the same; you might even find them online with the help of google. . . . OR, you could contact one of our resident inhouse sponsors from various dealerships (Phil @Grubs, et al) and ask them to double check for you. . .OR you could call a local Infiniti dealership on the phone aand ask them to check for you...OR you could call a local bodyshop and have them run the part numbers through their estimating database and they should be able to tell if the body parts are the same.
.02
#124
new car owner please help!
Ok so I picked up my 07 g35x and was driving on the highway going about 130 km/h and the steering wheel would start to shake. I don't know if it was just the highway I was on because it would shake for a bit and then it would stop. Its not a fierce shaking but i am worried. Does anybody know what it might be? And also my service engine light is on. Do I HAVE to take it to a shop or can I DIY?
#125
Ok so I picked up my 07 g35x and was driving on the highway going about 130 km/h and the steering wheel would start to shake. I don't know if it was just the highway I was on because it would shake for a bit and then it would stop. Its not a fierce shaking but i am worried. Does anybody know what it might be? And also my service engine light is on. Do I HAVE to take it to a shop or can I DIY?
After eliminating the particular road stretch in question, I'd start with a close inspection of the tires and then an alignment check as most likely causes, and then go from there if it still occurs.
As far as your SES light being on, for crying out loud...get that thing read already! (and report back with the code) You can typically either borrow a code reader (by a refundable deposit) from lots of major auto parts stores (ie. Autozone,ORielly, etc.), or you can get them done for free at numerous different service centers (ie. Mida muffler, Goodyear, etc.).
.02
Last edited by vqsmile; 05-05-2013 at 11:32 PM.
#126
#127
What exactly happens to you to believe that your rotors are warped? My car tends to shake a lot when braking from high speeds. I took it to a mechanic but i was told it was my control arm. I really dont know which one it is but im going to try to replace the rotors first and see if that helps. I would recommend the centric rotors with the stoptech pads if your looking for basic OEM replacement. Iv read a lot of good reviews on them.
#128
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
I believe there was a tsb for that, for me they resurfaced the rotors and removed or changed the backplate thing... Look up v36 tsb, should be covered by infiniti
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StratoMX5 (05-06-2013)
#130
The TSB isn't really going to do much good for you. Most likely, your car is out of warranty coverage, so they're not going to do it for free like they sometimes did during the waranty period. Also, since the dealership already replaced the rotors and it came back shortly thereafter, they aren't going to replace the rotors with anything but the same factory parts, so theroretically, it should just come right back again on another set. I know the TSB has them add a rotor splash shield, but I think it is largely a bandaid of sorts, as many here have reported that it really didn't prevent it from occurring again.
A couple things you should know:
1) the most common issue with these brakes is NOT rotor warping, it is 'judder' which is caused by an uneven transfer of brake pad material onto the rotors. (btw, did the dealership replace the pads when they replaced your rotors?)
2) Judder can be prevented, or at least minimized, by learning to avoid hard braking followed by holding your foot on the brakes at a complete stop. SOunds crazy, I know, but once the pads are hot and you stop completely, they leave microscopic patches of pad material on the rotors on that exact spot. Do it enough times, and you get a buildup which becomes progessively worse and worse as the "bump" of built up pad material begets more uneven contact with the pads onto those same spots. Additionally, the rotor metal gets overheated at those spots which can actually alter the metalurgy of the rotor and lead to permanent damage.
All this info is available is countless threads throughout this forum, as well as a simple google search.
A couple things you should know:
1) the most common issue with these brakes is NOT rotor warping, it is 'judder' which is caused by an uneven transfer of brake pad material onto the rotors. (btw, did the dealership replace the pads when they replaced your rotors?)
2) Judder can be prevented, or at least minimized, by learning to avoid hard braking followed by holding your foot on the brakes at a complete stop. SOunds crazy, I know, but once the pads are hot and you stop completely, they leave microscopic patches of pad material on the rotors on that exact spot. Do it enough times, and you get a buildup which becomes progessively worse and worse as the "bump" of built up pad material begets more uneven contact with the pads onto those same spots. Additionally, the rotor metal gets overheated at those spots which can actually alter the metalurgy of the rotor and lead to permanent damage.
All this info is available is countless threads throughout this forum, as well as a simple google search.
#132