Very nice. You now have almost exactly the same set-up as me! Sorry to hear about the issues you've had, but you'll always have some of those when modding, escpecially when going FI. I now have about 12K miles on mine since the install and have had a few issues as well. I still need to get it back in to Sam to have a few of the original issues resolved. Thankfully I only live 20 miles from GTM.

Your set-up turned out very similar to mine. Sam actually did all of the sedan fitment on my car about this time last year. The pic on his website is actually of my car. LOL Looks like you ended up with similar numbers to mine with 9 psi.. you came out with about 10 more HP, but I think I ended up with more torque. I'm also getting much better mileage than you it seems, but that may change as you get used to all the extra power... I can average close to 25 mpg on the highway and range from 19 - 23 mpg city depending on how aggressively I drive. Guess each car reacts differently to the mods.

Good luck, and feel free to PM if you'd like to chat about it.

UPDATE 11/22/11: Car is at GTM now to have the last few little issues fixed. Will let everyone know how it goes when I get the car back.

 

A few other comments....

Looks like Sam was able to retain your window washer fluid bottle by moving your air intake to a different location. My set-up uses dual filters located in the fenderwell on the passenger's side where the factory washer fluid bottle used to be, so I no longer have my window washer fluid bottle.

Also looks like Sam is now using larger intake piping, but that may just be what it looks like in the pics and the piping may be the same diameter.

Relative to traction and traction control... I'm running 285's on the rear (also RE760's), and its still very hard to keep the rear end planted. Even at highway speeds you can literally light the rear tires up pretty easily if you want... it's pretty nerve racking the first few times it happens, but you get used to it. You also really can't drive the car with the traction control on anymore. Even under slight acceleration the traction control kicks in on almost every 1-2 and 2-3 shift. You can even get the traction control to kick in at 70+ mph when downshifting to 3rd and flooring it! I now pretty much drive with the traction control off almost exclusively.

 

Hey thanks for commenting, i have been trying to find you after i got the kit installed, but i have just been really busy. Truth is, seeing the video of your car on GTM's youtube channel is what got me started in the whole project for supercharging my car, it just happened that the stage 2 is now available, and i figured that i will just go for it, since it has the bigger charger. Altho you have a much bigger advantage then me, i live 2000miles away from them, sadly.
By the way, what did you final dyno sheet looked like? I do realize that my car is making lower torque then most stage 1 guys, but didn't realize that there is only such a small whp difference.
Also did you had any of the issues i encountered? any suggestions will help
And does you car have that significant lag between the time you pull the pedal for the net gear to it actually shifts? My can gain another 500rpm before the trans shifts, part of me actually thought that the trans will now shift more instantaneously with the valve body and cooler.

 

It should shift faster only if you are in DS mode. The shift algorithm is different (slower response) if you are shifting in M mode.

 

Oh, i didn't not know that, thanks. Yea i have been in M mode most of the time, i don't really like the way computer choose my gears. Sometimes it just chooses the wrong gear at the wrong time.

 

Hey everyone, sorry for not updating the thread, i have been busy with work and school.

Currently, my car is still having issues, and after a lot of analyzing, i have concluded that the tune on my car is simply off. So now I'm trying to locate a tuner locally that i can trust and have him do a full retune on the entire car. Needless to say this is a major PITA since i paid so much expecting a fully finished and perfect car. Now all i can do is hope that Sam is at least willing to take responsibility in not having a good tune for my car, altho that's probably not going happen

Now this is a list of issues that i have, if anyone wants to chip in some ideas, i will give them a try, but all in all, I'm pretty sure a full retune is the only way to fix most of these issues.

1. The throttle hangs, for example, when I rev the car to arpund 2000rpm in Park, after I lift my foot off the throttle, the rpm will stay at 2000rpm for about a second and half before it will began to drop down. This throttle hang also happens when lift off the gas pedal when the car is doing around 2000 to 3000rpm, in higher gear. The car will stay at the rpm and continue forward with throttle until about a second and half later, then it will start to slow down.
2. The throttle also jumps up, for example, when I'm costing to a stop light in 4th gear doing around 45mph, I throw the car in to neutral, the rpm will come down to around 1200rpm, and immediately jumps back up to around 1900rpm, and then come back down slowly.
3. When I do a cold start in the morning, the car usually first revs to 1800rpm right after the start of the engine, but now, it will go to 1800rpm then rasie to around 2000rpm, and the revs will come down as the engine warms up.
4. The battery voltage issue unstable. The batt voltage usually stay at around 13 to 14.5v, sometime it will go into the 12s and occasionally it will go into the 15s, but from time to time, for a spilt second, the voltage goes down to around 11.3v other times it will hit over 16v, and the highest that i have seen is 16.6v. When the battery is in such extreme conditions the battery light and the e-brake light will flash together. To emphasize that only happened for a spilt second, it will go back to normal after.
5. Under full acceleration the boost doesn't gain smoothly. When I go on full throttle, the car will hit 5 psi at around 4000rpm, but will remain at around 5-6 psi for the entire time until the revs go past 6500, then it will spike up to 10psi and stays there until i **** to the next gear, in which case it will go back to 5-6psi again.

Also, my CEl is on, and the code from it includes, P0507 for idle air control system rpm higher than expected and P2A00 for O2 sensor circuit range/performance bank 1 sensor 1.

At the mean time, i will keep an close eye on the car to see if anything changes. I will update when possible.

 

Hi, i was searching the net for GTM S/C on the sedan when i came across your car.

I'm about to get GTM Stage 1 S/C from a friend of mine (who bought it but never installed), i'd like to ask you about the S/C how is it doing so far? it's been almost 1 and half month since last update, also i'd like to ask you about the Blitz DS R-VIT, did you install it by it self or did you buy additional sensors with it?

I got Injen CAI, GTM resonated testpipes and Nvidia cat-back, i'm making 276rwhp, i hope to get more than 400rwhp with the stage 1 s/c kit.

 

i would take the car to lightspeed in reddeer for the tuning for sure.

they are probably the best in alberta for tuning.

 

Yea, it's been a while since i did my last update, i have been very busy so not much time spent working on the car. With the stage 1, your power goals can be meet depending on how many psi of boost you are willing to go on, i say 10psi should bring you past the 400 mark. Also i can recommend installing engine oil cooler, no matter where you are at, the engine oil can get really hot. If you have 5at, i say do the oil cooler upgrade for sure, you can get by without doing the valve body upgrade, just don't punch the throttle in 5th and downshift before getting on the throttle. As for the Blitz, i installed it with an additional oil temp sensor, this in my opinion is very useful, i do wish i would have added another oil pressure sensor. But mainly, the blitz pulls the data from the OBD2 connection. I'm not sure where you are located, but make sure you get the kit installed and tuned well and by someone you can trust that takes responsibility for their work.

Yea, i was going to take my car to lightspeed but i have been too busy to even budget time for the trip. i might take the car up sometime soon. Altho from all the people that i have talked to, Toma of dynomotive seems to be a better tuner then Cam, but he hasn't done much with uprev, so i'm holding out to see if Toma can tune it or not.


Update to the car: It has been parked for the past 2 weeks since the braided stainless steel powersteering line has been leaking oil really badly this is a manufacturing defect. So i called Sam and he sent me a replacement which is all good. But the replacement line is rubber instead of stainless steel and the fitting is of much worst quality then the original plus the diameter of the tube is much smaller as well. Still inorder to drive the car, i had to replace the line, so no choice but to stick with a shitty quality line. Since this is the powersteering line, so it doesn't really matter as long as it works. But my issue is that i sent Sam and email expressing my concern for the quality of the line, and he replied back saying the replacement is of better quality. I don't think giving me BS works when i'm comparing them sidebyside. Anyways, this is just adding to my doubt with the quality of GTM, seems like the past reputation they have built of great service and great builds has not applied to my case what so ever.

 

Thanks for the help, i need an AFR guage, i might get the blitz AFR box and connect it to the main unit.

 

the blitz pulls AFR from the car's OBD2, so you don't need a AFR gauge. what the blitz is missing tho are things like oil temp and pressure, boost, and fuel pressure.

 

It is really disappointing to see the way you have approached this without stating all the facts.

First of all, you brought your car to us on a very tight schedule. Normally, this isn't a huge problem, except for the fact that your car had been in an accident and the frame was bent. It would have been helpful to know that before the car came here. Your car spent 4 days in the body shop getting the frame straightened out which took time away from us doing the build. Given that we were already on a tight schedule with installing the kit on your car, this really put things in a time crunch. We busted our asses getting your car back on the road so you could drive it back. Everything was 100% good to go when we delivered the car. Just to remind you of the conversation we had when you were driving the car, as I told you, everything seems to be perfectly ok, and you were exctatic about the performance. I made a comment that it is a good idea to have some more road time on the car. The only way to perfect these FI builds is by spending a lot of time going over the car again and again. Unfortunately we could not do that in your case, because you had to go.

That said, I've told you this before, and I'll tell you again. There is nothing wrong with your tune. You have a Check Engine Light and the code is a P057. This is a common code and means that you have to perform a relearn on the drive by wire throttles. While we did a relearn on your throttles before you left, the throttle control memory gets erased if the battery voltage drops too low and you have to jump the car. If that happens, you need to relearn the throttles again. Simple, fixed, done. But if you want to waste your money on another tune, by all means, knock yourself out.

On the issue of the power steering line, when you brought the issue to our attention, we overnighted you a new hose at no charge to you, no questions asked. The notion that the hose we sent you is a "cheaper hose" is not true by any measure. The Teflon hose actually has a higher pressure rating than the original braided stainless steel rubber line. Besides, it would be stupid for us to send you a sub-par hose. Why would we send a replacement part that would fail again? We work to develop and maintain a good relationship with our customers...not undermine it. We sent you a part that will work flawlessly for the rest of the life of your car. We value the relationship we build with our customers, but it seems like you do not.

Best of luck to you.

 

hmmm...the other side of the story...!!!

 

Sorry, but i haven't check this thread in a while so haven't had a chance to reply.

Well this sure is a lot of claims, and i will admit, I do not know everything, but what ever i post on here reflects on how i felt at the time of the post. Anyways, in response to Sam, here is what i thought and what i know.

I knew that my car had been in an accident before, and the crash resulted in a new bumper and a new driver side headlight. I did take my car to a professional body shop, and they did not mention anything about any frame damage. So i was not aware of the situation. Now what i didn't know is that my car had to spent 4 days at the body shop. From all the phone conversation i had with you, I thought that it was more like a day or maybe a day and a half worth of delay. I totally understand that all of these stuff puts a delay on the install progress, and I think i was being very understanding about the whole situation which involved adjusting my travel plans to stay in LA a few more days and not go to San Fran. So the situation did cause difficulty on both parties, and i just want to state that i was grateful of all the hard work that you and Jason (if i remember correctly) have put into my car to get everything ready.

Well as for the tune, I will go and get a throttle relearn as soon as i get my car back, but my cel shows more then just the P057 code, there is also a P2A00 code which is for the O2 sensor bank 1. If you can, please let me know the solution for this, thanks. I do value your suggestion and will update once i do get a throttle relearn.

Now as for the powersteering line, I did state that you had ship me the line without any questions, and i am very appreciative about that. My observation of a cheaper line, is not just from me, but also the mechanic that replaced the line. Both of us aren't aware of the pressure rating that's for sure, but our observation is based on the diameter of the tube, which the replacement line is smaller, and the bent of the metal fitting at the end of the line. The SS line was manufactured with the exact angle, and the replacement is bent to the angle. Again this is based on our observation, we can't possibly tell that the new line can take higher pressure. Oh well so far the new line works fine, so it's good for now. What would have helped tho is if you can let me know that the new line is rated at a higher pressure when i emailed you about the exact issue, instead of just stating that it is higher in quality.


Anyways, after all I do say again, that I'm not an expert in everything, and I'm just a regular person who tries to be honest with my experiences. Please do understand that it does not give me any benefit to say bad things about GTM, after all i do still own their product. If i really was that disappointed with the kit, i would have got rid of it by now. The reason why i didn't is because i do still believe that i can get the car to perform the way it should, and the way i imagined when i plunged down all of my savings account.

Now as for an update.
After replacing the line, i have only been driving the car rarely, i did end up getting a winter car after all. So the G mostly just stays in the garage, and only go out on the good days. But 2 weeks ago, when i was driving the car, it died on me, well sort of, i managed to get it running again. The long story is, after running about doing some personal stuff, which includes shipping the SS line back to GTM, i was driving home, and pulled up to a stop light. And nothing was out of the ordinary other then the ebrake and batt light flashing from time to time. when the light turned green, i press the throttle to go forward, and the car's throttle is completely gone, as in the car doesn't react at all when i press the throttle pedal, but everything was still running. So i managed to cost the car in drive to the side of the road and figured that i will shut the car down. After i shut the car down, and tried to restart the car, it will not start again. the car will do half a crank and die again. it is still possible to put the car on the on mode with all the lights and electronics running. After calling a close friend who came by with a booster pack, we managed to charge the car up and restart the car, after restarting everything appeared to be fine. Since i was still scared, i ended up flat-bedding the car to a shop that a friend works at. And it's still there now. During the initial test, nothing really showed up, so we thought it might be a grounding issue, but that didn't seem to have solved anything, now we are going back to the theory of a about to fail alternator. The part will be in soon, I will update once the alternator is installed.

 

Battery voltage good?

I have a Stage 1 SC kit which I got a few months ago. Won't install it anytime soon though as I'm too busy with college.