The higher gauge wires for the alternator that black betty and others sell. I am going to install a 500W rms system soon and dont want the lights to dim or anything.

should I install this kit to make sure the electrical system isnt too stressed or is it fine to run a 500W RMS system without them?

thanks

 

500w is nothing and if you want to help your car then do the BIG 3 UPGRADE and use 4 gauge wire along with a solid ground and scrape the paint to get a good connection. You can add a small 1 farad cap but honestly you will be fine. Grounding kit are worthless and do nothing but adding money into the wallet of the creator of the kit

 

Grounding would help a little, are you planning on running 500W RMS or 500W Max? theres a difference since 500W max is nothing while 500w rms is continuous which would have a much higher peak and drain enough from the alternator but it should be fine with our cars

 

simple answer is no you dont have to, but sometimes with the grounding you can make it sound better

 

I'm not sure if everyone else here replying has installed a grounding kit, but I have and there is a world of difference to me. No lights dimming, tranny shifts quicker, and most relevant to the Op is that the stereo became 2x as loud, 4x as clear and the base especially is 10x as good. This is on the non-bose stereo as well. My wife thought I'd gone out and upgraded the stereo- it shakes now and sounds as good or better than the bose system in here armada le w/ bose.

My grounding kit has a wire going from the battery post to the ECU and the metal bracket that the stereo is grounded to.

 

One of my grounding kits will really help stabilize the electrical system. No more diming lights when the bass hits as well as many other benefits.

Check out the reviews and PM me if you are interested:

https://g35driver.com/forums/reviews...es-review.html

 

I dont even think HID's would dim cause they are running off ballasts correct? When I had my accord and a 1000watt RMS system the halogen lights and dashboard would dim significantly when the bass hit or when it was repeating.

So will our stock altenator be able to handle a 500watt RMS load under normal driving conditions without affecting any of the onboard electronics or headlights?

just thought i'd restate the question a little better. thanks again

 

yes, the factory alternator is built to handle a lot electronic load, the only issue is that our cars come filled with electronics that already put stress on it but still 500w rms should be fine considering the amount of ppl who have done this in these cars without any issues.

 

awesome, thats what I wanted to hear! Cause doing the BIG 3 just increases the amount of power that can flow through the alternator system. The alternator is not magically able to supply more power just cause the wire can handle it right? I doubt the factory wires are constricting their capacity. If you installed a high output alternator then it is obvious that you would want to use a higher gauge, but I would assume that the factory wires are sufficient for the amount of power the stock alternator is supplying? am I correct in this assumption or is my thinking flawed?




also, do you know how amplifiers works? Do they continuously draw all that power or is it always varying with the demands of the music and how loud you turn up your volume? so if I have my volume lower and my sub is barely hitting I would assume the amp is drawing less power than with the volume turned half way up and the sub going through full excursion? correct?

sorry for all the questions, i'm just curious!