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It was around a year ago that I got my gaskets replaced. Before my warranty on the repair expires I decided to run a oil test to see how the car is doing. Also, I drove the car with the code for about a year before getting it fixed. Everything is completely normal, I did not replace any time chains or hardware just the gaskets themselves. The results say it's completely normal and within the ball park, the extra silicon is due to the sealant used. Hopefully people with the code can feel a bit better haha
Great to know for v36 owners! I don't own one, but this is a great update for the community. Nothing I hate more than having a major issue and being haunted by the idea that its gonna come back. Please keep this updated every 6 months or so for history's/research sake.
It was around a year ago that I got my gaskets replaced. Before my warranty on the repair expires I decided to run a oil test to see how the car is doing. Also, I drove the car with the code for about a year before getting it fixed. Everything is completely normal, I did not replace any time chains or hardware just the gaskets themselves. The results say it's completely normal and within the ball park, the extra silicon is due to the sealant used. Hopefully people with the code can feel a bit better haha
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Thanks for the update, this is very good to know.
Originally Posted by ScraggleRock
Great to know for v36 owners! I don't own one, but this is a great update for the community. Nothing I hate more than having a major issue and being haunted by the idea that its gonna come back. Please keep this updated every 6 months or so for history's/research sake.
I don't think anybody that had the fix done is ever going to see the problem come back again (as long as they used the updated gaskets). I think the real value in that oil sample test was to show that no severe or lasting wear is evident on the engine subsequently. Given that anyone with a gasket failure undoubtedly spent some period of time driving around without proper oil pressure, it's really nice to know you didn't cause collateral damage.
yes I'll try to keep it up to date every time I run an oil test. The VQ motors are very well built, I was running about 7psi at idle before the fix and that was driven for an year, given that I did not drive with the code, I kinda learned how to drive it so that the code doesn't show up but nevertheless the pressure was lacking. But even at these conditions the engine ran without a problem and no damages whatsoever. Runs great, sounds great.
Nice result. I meant to send in a sample to Blackstone from my new-to-me 104k mile '07, but forgot to grab a sample before it slowed to a dribble. Whoops. Next time.
Reading about the gasket failure makes me want to check the oil pressure though. If it is low, a ~$1500 repair would suck on a $12k car, but then again, it's a nice $12k car. I probably should have had that checked during my two PPIs. Live and learn, I guess. The good thing is that the only stored error code, according to the dealer, with this car is for the adaptive cruise control (dirty sensor). No p0011, but that doesn't necessarily mean the gaskets are fine, right?
Nice result. I meant to send in a sample to Blackstone from my new-to-me 104k mile '07, but forgot to grab a sample before it slowed to a dribble. Whoops. Next time.
Reading about the gasket failure makes me want to check the oil pressure though. If it is low, a ~$1500 repair would suck on a $12k car, but then again, it's a nice $12k car. I probably should have had that checked during my two PPIs. Live and learn, I guess. The good thing is that the only stored error code, according to the dealer, with this car is for the adaptive cruise control (dirty sensor). No p0011, but that doesn't necessarily mean the gaskets are fine, right?
To my knowledge, it's just a matter of time. But again I could be wrong, this is only coming from my judgement based on the gaskets they taken out, it's completely crap. I think the best way is not to drive the car too hard if you can. The first time I got the code was when I bounced off the rev limiter because I forgot to shift for some reason haha. Also Lucas oil engine stop leak works as well, when I drove my for about a year with the problem I just relied on that before I had time to send it in to get it fixed.
I think the best way is not to drive the car too hard if you can.
Ha, yeah, that's not going to happen.
If it blows, it blows. If and when that happens, I'll either take it in to get fixed, or take a swing at it myself. From everything I've gathered, it's not catastrophic, and from what you and others have said and shown with your oil analysis, it doesn't seem to cause any damage other than a rather sizable dent in the old wallet.
If it blows, it blows. If and when that happens, I'll either take it in to get fixed, or take a swing at it myself. From everything I've gathered, it's not catastrophic, and from what you and others have said and shown with your oil analysis, it doesn't seem to cause any damage other than a rather sizable dent in the old wallet.
haha yea exactly, not a major problem at all in terms of time, but eventually should get it fixed if it is burst. When I had it, if I cruise around 80km/h at just under 2000 rpm after 10 or so seconds, the chain can be heard rattling I think due to the tensioner, then shortly after the code will pop up. So I pretty much never cruised in that area keeping it above 2000 rpm, and if I have to do low rpm I just burst it and not hold the pedal. Code never came up but I knew there was a problem haha.
[QUOTE=SofaKingAzn;6990291]It was around a year ago that I got my gaskets replaced. Before my warranty on the repair expires I decided to run a oil test to see how the car is doing. Also, I drove the car with the code for about a year before getting it fixed. Everything is completely normal, I did not replace any time chains or hardware just the gaskets themselves. The results say it's completely normal and within the ball park, the extra silicon is due to the sealant used. Hopefully people with the code can feel a bit better haha
20 minutes after buying my 04 g35 with 141,000 on it, p0011 and p0021 came up after seeing my SES light come and scanned it.. I have a warranty so they took it right back.. 3 weeks later they've replace every sensor, both solenoid valves and sensors, timing chain, gaskets, all except the engine control wiring harness.. the light is still on, I drove it and it hesitates so bad when accelerating and is by far the car I bought weeks ago, it also rattles almost like dragging chains at low rpms.. They now found an electrical bad ground and are replacing the engine harness completely.. consider yourself so lucky that you did not have to go thrpugh any of this lol
His was an entirely different motor (VQ35HR) and his codes are usually caused by a failure of a paper gasket inside the timing chain cover. Your VQ35DE doesn't typically have THIS issue but those codes could be a number of things (looks like they're narrowing that list down). Is the dealer doing this work for you? Normally the dealer is able to find the issue the first time, the FSM has very exact steps for testing everything rather than just replacing every component that "might" be the problem.