Fuel Pump Issues
Fuel Pump Issues
Hi All
I just got my new fuel pump in the mail today. It looked to be the same as the last one. Unfortuantly
I got it through rock auto on warranty and so had to send the other one back before getting this one.
I install it everything seems fine but when I go to test it my G starts for 1 second then stalls out. I know
for sure its the new pump but I wanted to be sure I'm not missing anything
Have you guys seen this before? can pumps be dead new in box or is this weird
I just got my new fuel pump in the mail today. It looked to be the same as the last one. Unfortuantly
I got it through rock auto on warranty and so had to send the other one back before getting this one.
I install it everything seems fine but when I go to test it my G starts for 1 second then stalls out. I know
for sure its the new pump but I wanted to be sure I'm not missing anything
Have you guys seen this before? can pumps be dead new in box or is this weird
I don't think Nissan ever added a fuel test port to the HR motor but maybe I'm wrong. On the DE motor you install a sandwich adapter like this one.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rt-p-9160.html
Order it with either a schrader valve or with a gauge. With the schrader valve you will need a regular fuel pressure test gauge.
Typically pressures will be like 50-52 psi, can't remember but it's in the service manual.
EDIT: You typically just leave the sandwich adapter permanently installed afterwards but you could remove it if you want it for another vehicle or to sell when finished troubleshooting.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rt-p-9160.html
Order it with either a schrader valve or with a gauge. With the schrader valve you will need a regular fuel pressure test gauge.
Typically pressures will be like 50-52 psi, can't remember but it's in the service manual.
EDIT: You typically just leave the sandwich adapter permanently installed afterwards but you could remove it if you want it for another vehicle or to sell when finished troubleshooting.
In the meantime you could CAREFULLY test for fuel pressure by unbolting that right side fuel damper and lifting it up enough to get a small plastic bucket under it. Then have someone else turn the ignition to ON and make sure it blasts out 50psi of fuel for 1 full second while it's doing it's pre-ignition fuel prime.
Just keep a rag over the top of everything so it doesn't splash gas around too badly, it won't tell you if the thing is building pressure but it will tell you if it's actually pumping.
You should also OBD2 scan for hidden codes to make sure you aren't missing something from the cam or crank sensors. They all have to function properly for the engine to have spark / injector.
Just keep a rag over the top of everything so it doesn't splash gas around too badly, it won't tell you if the thing is building pressure but it will tell you if it's actually pumping.
You should also OBD2 scan for hidden codes to make sure you aren't missing something from the cam or crank sensors. They all have to function properly for the engine to have spark / injector.
ok ill have a look it would be weird though that everything was fine only about a 2 days ago then when installing this new pump it doesnt work the only reason I sent
the other one back was because it was reading fuel level incorrectly and the unit was under warranty. FYI both sides where replaced at the same time for new units
the other one back was because it was reading fuel level incorrectly and the unit was under warranty. FYI both sides where replaced at the same time for new units
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From what I've seen fuel gauge issues are typically the instrument cluster, there are steps in the FSM in section DI - Driver Information on how to test the resistance level being sent by the fuel float. The test is done directly on the harness for the pump and sub pump so no need to remove the fuel pump to check this.
I would check to make sure you didn't bend a pin in the harnesses when reassembling stuff just to rule that out since it's a super quick/easy check.
Also with the back seat cushion removed can you HEAR the pump when you turn the ignition on?
EDIT: Oops forgot it's a V36 platform, not sure how hard that seat is to remove, hopefully as easy at the V35.
I would check to make sure you didn't bend a pin in the harnesses when reassembling stuff just to rule that out since it's a super quick/easy check.
Also with the back seat cushion removed can you HEAR the pump when you turn the ignition on?
EDIT: Oops forgot it's a V36 platform, not sure how hard that seat is to remove, hopefully as easy at the V35.
Hey
Thanks for all your information turns out it was the new fuel pump was bad from new. I got the piece you recommended to be able to do
a fuel pressure test and the pump was giving me very bad numbers nowhere near the needed pressure. I went to the
junk yard and picked up a fuel pump from their and it worked immediately. So now im back to square 1 for the correct fuel level. I will check
the resistance and see what im getting. if not then I know its for sure the cluster. I did do that manual cluster check that you can do and the
guages do line up exactly to where they are supposed to be when performing the test. do we know if the harness runs inside the car or does it run outside?
P.S the couch is just as easy on the V36 platform which is nice
Thanks for all your information turns out it was the new fuel pump was bad from new. I got the piece you recommended to be able to do
a fuel pressure test and the pump was giving me very bad numbers nowhere near the needed pressure. I went to the
junk yard and picked up a fuel pump from their and it worked immediately. So now im back to square 1 for the correct fuel level. I will check
the resistance and see what im getting. if not then I know its for sure the cluster. I did do that manual cluster check that you can do and the
guages do line up exactly to where they are supposed to be when performing the test. do we know if the harness runs inside the car or does it run outside?
P.S the couch is just as easy on the V36 platform which is nice
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