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Coolant heater hose connector replacement but still having mystery smoke after engine
After doing a little research on what exactly happen the moment i heard a mild expulsion under my hood once i turn my a/c off first and then 🚗 alot of white smoke came from under the hood found it to be the connector that sits in between both hoses i removed the old dry out pieces carefully and replaced it with the new heater hose connector jst as i read in article in after i set things back up i had to charge my battery to start my car also im guessing since the csr hasn't moved in a month now ? So after getting it to crank up. Maybe after 2-3 minutes i see smoke rising still any suggestions im all ears 👂
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Originally Posted by Silentbutdeadly
By chance what else could be the problem?
Aside from old and leaking hoses, a failing thermostat, water pump, clogged radiator, fans not running.
Follow the troubleshooting steps in the cooling section of the FSM
^this. A pressure tester will allow you to simulate pressure on the cooling system, allowing you to find leaks!
Originally Posted by Silentbutdeadly
By chance what else could be the problem?
Coolant and/or oil is still leaking on your car bud
Check the other heater hoses and other coolant line connections for leaks.
Do you have any oil leaks?
Valve covers and cam sensor o-rings are common places for oil leaks.
Coolant hitting the exhaust will smell sweet, oil hitting the exhaust will smell like rotten eggs
^this. A pressure tester will allow you to simulate pressure on the cooling system, allowing you to find leaks!
Coolant and/or oil is still leaking on your car bud
Check the other heater hoses and other coolant line connections for leaks.
Do you have any oil leaks?
Valve covers and cam sensor o-rings are common places for oil leaks.
Coolant hitting the exhaust will smell sweet, oil hitting the exhaust will smell like rotten eggs
ok cool not that i know of any oil leaks cant really determine what type of smell bro.? just coolant it was everywhere even on the type of the hood cap and about a month ago i spotted a little coolant leak from under my car leaving from making a few runs but i will for sure check my other hoses i seen something about a bleeder line also in releasing pressure i will have to give it a try
Last edited by Silentbutdeadly; Dec 30, 2020 at 07:59 PM.
Aside from old and leaking hoses, a failing thermostat, water pump, clogged radiator, fans not running.
Follow the troubleshooting steps in the cooling section of the FSM
ok i will have to check other hoses but i think the smoke is coming from back passenger side. But today after i finished changing out the connector i started the car in turn my a/c on to 90° and my car shot up to (H)but my air was blowing cold. And i can also hear the fan click on I turn the car of asap since for a month that my car been down it only had smoked lightly never had it got over heated .but i will take everything down that you suggest and do my best to troubleshoot the problem
Last edited by Silentbutdeadly; Dec 30, 2020 at 08:04 PM.
If the heater is blowing cold air you have a large bubble trapped in the system, not surprising since you drained out coolant changing out that purge valve however you WILL run into problems since you replaced it with a straight pipe and no longer have an air purge valve there...
That piece is specifically designed so you remove the screw in the top, then fill coolant VERY SLOWLY (1 gal per minute, not all at once, gotta pour it very slowly at a rate of 1 gal per minute) until coolant pours out of the purge valve, then put the screw back in, then continue to fill with coolant at the same rate so you don't trap air in the coolant system.
Google search this, it's important or you will seriously struggle to get the air out, plus the engine will always overheat if there's air trapped since the thermostat isn't going to open so you risk a blown HG.
Alternatively you can pick up a coolant vacuum fill kit, I used one on a 350Z two weeks ago and immediately bought one for myself because it was too easy, no trapped air.
The coolant pressure test is ridiculously easy, look up a youtube video, once you do it you'll laugh at how ridiculously simple it was. It's on par with the difficulty of filling up a basketball with air.
If the heater is blowing cold air you have a large bubble trapped in the system, not surprising since you drained out coolant changing out that purge valve however you WILL run into problems since you replaced it with a straight pipe and no longer have an air purge valve there...
That piece is specifically designed so you remove the screw in the top, then fill coolant VERY SLOWLY (1 gal per minute, not all at once, gotta pour it very slowly at a rate of 1 gal per minute) until coolant pours out of the purge valve, then put the screw back in, then continue to fill with coolant at the same rate so you don't trap air in the coolant system.
Google search this, it's important or you will seriously struggle to get the air out, plus the engine will always overheat if there's air trapped since the thermostat isn't going to open so you risk a blown HG.
Alternatively you can pick up a coolant vacuum fill kit, I used one on a 350Z two weeks ago and immediately bought one for myself because it was too easy, no trapped air.
The coolant pressure test is ridiculously easy, look up a youtube video, once you do it you'll laugh at how ridiculously simple it was. It's on par with the difficulty of filling up a basketball with air.
ok i think i might go back to AutoZone in get bleeder cap and replace part again i wasn't sure if the straight connector tube was the right part but i did a little YouTube research n found it to be easy just as you recommended i will also look for spill free funnel or try n find vacuum fill kit as you requested and give it a try i will let you kno how things go
The heater hose connectors are present on both sides of the engine. Just replaced the connector on the 2007 G35X. It was located on the passenger side near the firewall. The connector with the bleeder cap is located on the driver's side. I believe some models may have the bleeder on the passenger side and the straight connector on the driver's side as someone had mentioned on another post. Non of my local auto stores had either in stock. Had do order on line. The original Nissan parts are plastic and prone to deterioration. Have to inspect them once in a while. I have seen them made of metal on line. Any connector for 5/8" hose should work. I found that the Lisle funnel works best for bleeding the cooling system in any car.(link below) https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...ree-funnel-606
Edit: You can get it for half the price shown on the link if you search on line.
Last edited by Mr.GEE; Dec 31, 2020 at 04:58 PM.
Reason: additional information on item discussed