Bank 1 VTC Cover Removal
$600 that must be for the whole cover. The magnetic retarder is mounted inside the cover. I just replaced the retarder and the three seals. Actually, I bought two but only needed one so I am returning one this week. It cost $168 to my door. I got them off of EBay from a Nissan parts dealer in Longwood, Fla. I bench tested and cleaned the solenoid in the cover and it tested good so I didn’t see a need to replace it. Once I had the cover in hand the Retarder replacement literally took me less than 10 mins. The manual relearn took on the first try. So the repair for P0014 cost me about $210 total in parts.
Last update on this repair. I had the ECU updated at the dealer yesterday and the slow speed stalling and hesitation on acceleration from a complete stop have been eliminated. Next up high flow cats and a 370Z Nismo rear swaybar. Thanks to the folks who helped me through this repair. Cheers!
How do i go about getting the dealer to update the ecu in mine? I'm assuming I'll have to take it to an infiniti dealer and not just a nissan dealer. Mine also has the random hesitate and stall from a stop. Did u have to mention any certain tsb? How much did they charge for the update?
Nissan can do it but strangely enough it was cheaper at the Infiniti dealer. I just called the service department and said I wanted an ECU update pursuant to ITB11-018. $148 out the door. Took less than 45 minutes. Pisses me off that they charge for this update. The car was dangerous to drive before the update. I called corporate and they would not even send me a service coupon to subsidize the upgrade. Very bad customer service. I will never buy Infiniti again. If you want the firmware part numbers, let me know and I’ll reply. I requested the current version and updated version be noted on the service ticket. I did take the car back to the dealer I purchased it from. No complaints on the service itself. Car runs like a champ now.
If the $600 plus dollars for.the part is the issue, which was for me, try the salvage yards. Bring a multi-meter and check the ohm load on the connector. 9-11 ohms is what i was told was acceptable. Charging it out isn't horrible
Issue for me isn't the part, it's whether or not I should spend $1800 on repair on a 2011 fx35 with almost 100k just so I can wait on buying a new car. Would anything catastrophic happen if I were to leave it be for a few months while I wait for a new car I might special order.
Mine was throwing that p0014 for like 3 months before i figured out what the problem was. Other than loosing about 5 miles per gallon i didn't have any other side affects. Not sure if my case was the rule or the exception though




