2008 infiniti g35 auto transmission problem
2008 infiniti g35 auto transmission problem
Hi All
hope to get some help from all of you
some problems I’m facing are
1st After cold start and letting it to warm up for 5 minutes then when I start to drive normally just as I get on a main road the car will drive smooth then it will rev up to 5000 rpm to 7000 rpm and jerks and then drives normal
incase if it does not jerk the transmission gets stuck in 3rd or 4th gear
if I try to put it in neutral and then drive still gear is stuck
if I try to put it in sports it will show D only won’t show which gear I’m stuck in
after normal driving the car at times of braking will press gas itself and moves abit in front when I’m at 20km to 40km
after the cold start and reving and jerk usual problem is when car shifts from 3 to 4 most of the time it will give me a jerk or shifts late
now I’m thinking to open and clean the solenoid from control valve body
but please do let me know if there can be anything else I can do to fix it properly
this problem is going on since a few months but got more now
before this problem I had it all smooth until I opened my transmission and changed the sealing as there was minor leak
hope to get some help from all of you
some problems I’m facing are
1st After cold start and letting it to warm up for 5 minutes then when I start to drive normally just as I get on a main road the car will drive smooth then it will rev up to 5000 rpm to 7000 rpm and jerks and then drives normal
incase if it does not jerk the transmission gets stuck in 3rd or 4th gear
if I try to put it in neutral and then drive still gear is stuck
if I try to put it in sports it will show D only won’t show which gear I’m stuck in
after normal driving the car at times of braking will press gas itself and moves abit in front when I’m at 20km to 40km
after the cold start and reving and jerk usual problem is when car shifts from 3 to 4 most of the time it will give me a jerk or shifts late
now I’m thinking to open and clean the solenoid from control valve body
but please do let me know if there can be anything else I can do to fix it properly
this problem is going on since a few months but got more now
before this problem I had it all smooth until I opened my transmission and changed the sealing as there was minor leak
I believe the transmission will lock itself in 3rd or 4th gear when the computer detects a problem.
U either have a bad valve body or your transmission is actually toasted. I had my valve body go bad and I fixed it but the damage to the transmission internals had already been done, so I had to get my transmission rebuilt afterwards.
U either have a bad valve body or your transmission is actually toasted. I had my valve body go bad and I fixed it but the damage to the transmission internals had already been done, so I had to get my transmission rebuilt afterwards.
I'd start with checking the fluid levels.
Then unplug the harness and make sure you don't have a bent pin, or maybe the harness itself isn't seated properly.
And yeah it's probably throwing a code if it's misbehaving that bad.
Then unplug the harness and make sure you don't have a bent pin, or maybe the harness itself isn't seated properly.
And yeah it's probably throwing a code if it's misbehaving that bad.
No check engine light
ones the car is warm and after the first strong jerk it drives smooth but I still get small shifting problems and when slowing down
I will be first draining full transmission fluid, change transmission filter and clean all solenoid with mass sensor cleaner.
after this all will update again on this.
will still try to read if incase I get any error codes.
I hope transmission is all good as it’s expensive to rebuild or get a used one here
ones the car is warm and after the first strong jerk it drives smooth but I still get small shifting problems and when slowing down
I will be first draining full transmission fluid, change transmission filter and clean all solenoid with mass sensor cleaner.
after this all will update again on this.
will still try to read if incase I get any error codes.
I hope transmission is all good as it’s expensive to rebuild or get a used one here
What about manual mode, can you isolate it to a specific gear?
Does it feel like it's engaging too harsh on every gear? If so then it's probably got a significant amount of clutch material floating around in the fluid which has changed the friction coefficient of the fluid.
There is no filter in the RE5R05A transmission, all you need to do is an oil drain/fill every 30k miles, it swaps out about 4 quarts of fluid. Strongly recommend you only use actual Nissan Matic S fluid.
EDIT: I would just start with a fluid change (there is a drain plug, don't drop the pan) to see if it lessens the symptoms, that swaps out 25% of the fluid with fresh stuff, if it's still misbehaving as bad then drop the pan, inspect the magnet on the pan, and go from there.
Does it feel like it's engaging too harsh on every gear? If so then it's probably got a significant amount of clutch material floating around in the fluid which has changed the friction coefficient of the fluid.
There is no filter in the RE5R05A transmission, all you need to do is an oil drain/fill every 30k miles, it swaps out about 4 quarts of fluid. Strongly recommend you only use actual Nissan Matic S fluid.
EDIT: I would just start with a fluid change (there is a drain plug, don't drop the pan) to see if it lessens the symptoms, that swaps out 25% of the fluid with fresh stuff, if it's still misbehaving as bad then drop the pan, inspect the magnet on the pan, and go from there.
After cold start when I drive and itself the rpm goes up as I mentioned before
if I get the jerk on car then yeah I can shift to normal mode paddle shifting manual and sports
but incase if I didn’t get the jerk I will be stuck in 3 or 4th gear and nowadays in 2nd too and when I try to shift to manual or sports or paddle shifting nothing works
I tried already with draining and putting matic S but still the same
so I think it’s solenoid or maybe to get a new used transmission
4 quarts is like 3.7 liters
is it only 4 quarts of oil that I have to use after I fix the new used transmission? Or should it be more than that ?
I think it’s 6 liters
if I get the jerk on car then yeah I can shift to normal mode paddle shifting manual and sports
but incase if I didn’t get the jerk I will be stuck in 3 or 4th gear and nowadays in 2nd too and when I try to shift to manual or sports or paddle shifting nothing works
I tried already with draining and putting matic S but still the same
so I think it’s solenoid or maybe to get a new used transmission
4 quarts is like 3.7 liters
is it only 4 quarts of oil that I have to use after I fix the new used transmission? Or should it be more than that ?
I think it’s 6 liters
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Might be a computer issue as well, try cleaning up the transmission ground, I think it's located at the same spot on the V35 and V36 chassis. Top middle of the timing chain cover, you should have two wires landed on the cover with two green colored bolts. One of them is the transmission ground. Unbolt, clean with a wire brush (bolt, lug, mating surface), apply a little electrical anti-oxidation grease, bolt it back on.
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