Noticed a hesitation/bog at low speeds and throttle input this morning. Not too concerned as I was planning to do a ECU reset later on. Car ran fine for the next hour or so, but then I got a big hesitation with loss of power and just barely limped home with a flashing check engine light pretty much the whole way.
Scan tool shows P0024 and P0300
Tried an ECU reset but issue is still there.
Car has 160,000 miles
Starting from the most likely part(s) to look at or replace what would be my best bet? Camshaft position sensor "B"?

 

P0024 is definitely for camshaft sensors. Try your luck with parts store one, or go oem for better out of the box reliability.

 

Will do.

Getting some mixed search results. Any idea where the location for this one is? My best guess is below the driverside throttle body?

 

On the HR engine the P0024 (bank2 exhaust cam out of angle) is either the magnet retarder or the cam sensor, fortunately all your cam sensors are the same so you can just swap the bank2 intake and exhaust cam sensors and see if the code switches to P0021 (bank2 intake cam out of angle). If the code persists then it's probably the magnet retarder.

Bank2 is the driver side for left hand drive vehicles, the intake cam sensor is a little more to the inboard side on the back of the head, directly in line with the intake cam (closer to intake side) the exhaust cam is a little lower and more to the outboard side of the head closer to the exhaust header.

 

Thanks Urban and Cleric. You don't even want to know how this happened, and what I've been dealing with,
But for the benefit of others I will post a few things so what happened to me can be avoided.

As my car now has over 160,000 miles a few weeks ago, and before winter really sets in, I decided to do a coolant flush using a Prestone radiator flush and cleaning product. I poured the product in, ran the car for a while, and then simply drained the coolant from the radiator petcock, refilled with a coolant/water mix and went on my merry way. The car ran fine for a couple weeks until the other day when the car developed the issue. Unbeknownst to me this cleaner is essentially acid, and will eat away at anything it comes into contact with.

Well at this point still thinking I needed a cam sensor I order a replacement from Amazon and in the meantime decided to remove the old one. My first clue something was wrong was when I removed the engine cover. I noticed the small PCV air filters (I have a PCV delete kit) had something strange on them. Then after removing the sensor, it was covered in a thick gloopy substance. I cleaned it and put it back. I then checked the dipstick, as you can now guess the oil had turned a brownish white color similar to a starbucks frappachino. The oil cap and fill neck were particulary nasty. I walked over to the autoparts store, got a jug of fresh oil and a hail Mary - a block and head cooling system gasket sealer. I then changed the oil (which was easily at least 1.5 quarts over-filled) and ran the cooling system repair product for the recommended 15-20 minutes.

After some initial stumbles and misfires, the car settled down and began to run normally and was able to maintain a steady 700rpm idle. But wait there more folks!
It now seems the gasket repair has clogged up the system somewhere. The car runs and idles but is blowing coolant out somewhere. I will try again tomorrow to flush the sytem with straight water and see what happens. Not really sure how permanent or sealed the head gasket issue is, but I'm not seeing any white smoke and there are no misfires, however will probably not venture any further than 5 miles from home for now. Long story short, if you are using a coolant flush, make sure to completely and properly flush it before going anywhere! Also it seems the V36 HR platform has perhaps an unintentional safety system built in with the cam sensors. They will dectect contaminated oil and stop you from driving before grenading your motor

And one last issue. I noticed the starter was weak to crank, I then looked at the alternator. It was covered in grime and and contaminants. I will do the usual WD-40 and hammer trick for now, but will likely take it to a mechanic for replacement. (assuming it's worth it and the gasket sealer holds)
Just wondering for a competant mechanic, approximately how long does the replacement take, assuming re-use of the belt?