I am going crazy with my fuel gauge reading all over the place!!!!

I pulled fuel pump and the other sending unit out a couple weeks ago and cleaned both sending units and then it SEEMED to work for a week or so then started acting wonky again.

I ordered a NEW sending unit (driver side) yesterday and was going to order the fuel pump/sending unit (passenger side) and every unit was labels for a "Coupe" and spoke not of a sedan.

Is there a difference? I bought one from rock auto and it was different where the fuel line in the tank attaches to the pump so I sent it back.

If anyone knows of the part number for the fuel pump or where to look one up I would appreciate the heads up.

Not sure why the one I ordered wasn't the same unless they changed something mid-year or the coupe one is different????

Mine is a 2005 Sedan.

 

did you measure the resistance of the sending units over the range of the float arm? if not, they may be perfectly fine. i wouldn't replace them unless you know they're not measuring correctly. my problem was in the cluster.

 

No I didn't. I already ordered the sending unit but I will check the resistance on both of them.........after I figure out how....It should be in the repair manual I hope.

So what was your issue in the cluster if you don't mind me asking?

 

I've read it's busted solder connections on the back of the cluster, there's a write-up on here somewhere.

 

Ok thanks, I'll search for it.....

 

https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html

Section DI - Driver Information. Combination Meter Fuel Gauge, probably on page 18. Basically you unplug the harness and measure resistance across pins 2 and 5, resistance scales from 3 to 80 ohms depending on how much fuel is in the tank.

If it's sending the correct resistance then it's being interpreted wrong at the combination meter or the wires are damaged between the two.

 

I will check this out. Thank you your info is a big help!

 

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...-detailed.html

This is the thread that helped me solve mine. Taking apart the cluster and putting it back together with the needles in the right place is a little tricky.

 

Great, I'm disabled and my hands don't work great on small intricate parts anymore. May have to just buy a new cluster?

 

that sounds expensive. i'd try it first and only buy one if i f-ed mine up. there are online services that claim to fix the cluster issues too for presumably less than a new cluster. i drove my for quite a while just tracking mileage but the anxiety drove me to fix it. but you've got to figure out if it's the senders or cluster that needs fixing.

 

You can do a self-test on the actual cluster itself and if the fuel gauge doesn't go to the middle it's faulty. I tested my sending unit resistance and it was fine, so I did the cluster test and that failed. I haven't fixed it yet, but it's some loose solder I believe.

I believe the passenger side is 3 - 80 and the driver side is 3-45 or something similar.