ProEFI Tech Question Please Help!
ProEFI Tech Question Please Help!
Hey guys I've got a 03 G35. It has Proefi..it's been on the stock block with SC. Blew the motor..built it, all forged internals..bored..more boost..cams Yada Yada and it's been to 3 tune shops over the past 3 years trying to get it tuned properly. The last 2 shops have had it a year each.
Anyway..the shop it's at now somehow managed to get my indicators stuck on. CEL, VDC, etc. They say it's because the thrpttle body is now connected to the proefi and not the stock ecu now. Is this a thing? Anyone else with a highly modified engine running proefi with the indocators.stuck on? Is there a fix?
I just feel like their feeding me with bs. Cause I also found a plug they had unplugged maybe ecu by the brake master cyl under the left engine bay cover..I plugged it in and my indicators briefly worked correctly but then went back to staying on. I feel like they shorted something.
Anyway..the shop it's at now somehow managed to get my indicators stuck on. CEL, VDC, etc. They say it's because the thrpttle body is now connected to the proefi and not the stock ecu now. Is this a thing? Anyone else with a highly modified engine running proefi with the indocators.stuck on? Is there a fix?
I just feel like their feeding me with bs. Cause I also found a plug they had unplugged maybe ecu by the brake master cyl under the left engine bay cover..I plugged it in and my indicators briefly worked correctly but then went back to staying on. I feel like they shorted something.
I haven't used it but just looking at their website it looks they're they're designed to work as a piggyback ECU, in which case it wouldn't be affecting what the stock ECM is telling the dash.
Sounds like they were trying to rewire it up as a standalone for some reason. I'm about 99% sure you WANT IT A PIGGYBACK because otherwise your dash isn't going to work. Standalone will need it's own display module.
However left engine bay by the brake master cylinder is the ABS components, I have no clue why they would be screwing around with that stuff. Take a picture and post it, sounds like they unplugged the ABS relay, they may have f'd with things and were causing it to trigger the ABS so they just unplugged the relay.
Sounds like they were trying to rewire it up as a standalone for some reason. I'm about 99% sure you WANT IT A PIGGYBACK because otherwise your dash isn't going to work. Standalone will need it's own display module.
However left engine bay by the brake master cylinder is the ABS components, I have no clue why they would be screwing around with that stuff. Take a picture and post it, sounds like they unplugged the ABS relay, they may have f'd with things and were causing it to trigger the ABS so they just unplugged the relay.
I haven't used it but just looking at their website it looks they're they're designed to work as a piggyback ECU, in which case it wouldn't be affecting what the stock ECM is telling the dash.
Sounds like they were trying to rewire it up as a standalone for some reason. I'm about 99% sure you WANT IT A PIGGYBACK because otherwise your dash isn't going to work. Standalone will need it's own display module.
However left engine bay by the brake master cylinder is the ABS components, I have no clue why they would be screwing around with that stuff. Take a picture and post it, sounds like they unplugged the ABS relay, they may have f'd with things and were causing it to trigger the ABS so they just unplugged the relay.
Sounds like they were trying to rewire it up as a standalone for some reason. I'm about 99% sure you WANT IT A PIGGYBACK because otherwise your dash isn't going to work. Standalone will need it's own display module.
However left engine bay by the brake master cylinder is the ABS components, I have no clue why they would be screwing around with that stuff. Take a picture and post it, sounds like they unplugged the ABS relay, they may have f'd with things and were causing it to trigger the ABS so they just unplugged the relay.
I know that was exactly my thoughts about everything ypu stated..but they said it's not supposed to run the throttle body even though it's designed to.
I have no idea. I'm beyond tired of listening to it. They've been jerking me around around most a year now.
I'll attach a photo of a video I took while I was at their shop. They still have my car.
Video didn't upload properly, post it to youtube then put the link here and it will automatically embed the video.
However I can tell by that picture that YES they did unplug the power-side harness off the VDC relay, I can see it in the background of your photo. The harness you're holding is the side of the relay where power basically comes in.
For whatever reason they disconnected it, troubleshoot the system separately from the engine controls stuff it's a 100% standalone system BUT it does send some CANBUS info back to the ECM so the ECM can limit throttle when your tires are spinning or the vehicle VDC system kicks in if you're sliding the car.
With that relay disconnected your ABS brakes will not operate, neither will the VDC (traction control and vehicle stability).
There is no reason to disconnect that stuff with a piggyback computer, this further reinforces my theory that this latest shop was trying to use that ECU as a standalone for some reason. If they were concerned about VDC limiting throttle then they should have just put in a VDC kill switch so you could kill power to the VDC/TSC/ABS control unit (requires the vehicle to be restarted after turning the system back on) rather than permanently disabling everything.
It's time to have an honest discussion with that shop to verify they know wtf they're doing, you might have to cut your losses and take the car to another shop.
I don't know why they would be having so much trouble though that ProEFI looks like a VERY straightforward unit to wire up and from there it's just tuning.
https://proefi.com/instructions/
However I can tell by that picture that YES they did unplug the power-side harness off the VDC relay, I can see it in the background of your photo. The harness you're holding is the side of the relay where power basically comes in.
For whatever reason they disconnected it, troubleshoot the system separately from the engine controls stuff it's a 100% standalone system BUT it does send some CANBUS info back to the ECM so the ECM can limit throttle when your tires are spinning or the vehicle VDC system kicks in if you're sliding the car.
With that relay disconnected your ABS brakes will not operate, neither will the VDC (traction control and vehicle stability).
There is no reason to disconnect that stuff with a piggyback computer, this further reinforces my theory that this latest shop was trying to use that ECU as a standalone for some reason. If they were concerned about VDC limiting throttle then they should have just put in a VDC kill switch so you could kill power to the VDC/TSC/ABS control unit (requires the vehicle to be restarted after turning the system back on) rather than permanently disabling everything.
It's time to have an honest discussion with that shop to verify they know wtf they're doing, you might have to cut your losses and take the car to another shop.
I don't know why they would be having so much trouble though that ProEFI looks like a VERY straightforward unit to wire up and from there it's just tuning.
https://proefi.com/instructions/
Video didn't upload properly, post it to youtube then put the link here and it will automatically embed the video.
However I can tell by that picture that YES they did unplug the power-side harness off the VDC relay, I can see it in the background of your photo. The harness you're holding is the side of the relay where power basically comes in.
For whatever reason they disconnected it, troubleshoot the system separately from the engine controls stuff it's a 100% standalone system BUT it does send some CANBUS info back to the ECM so the ECM can limit throttle when your tires are spinning or the vehicle VDC system kicks in if you're sliding the car.
With that relay disconnected your ABS brakes will not operate, neither will the VDC (traction control and vehicle stability).
There is no reason to disconnect that stuff with a piggyback computer, this further reinforces my theory that this latest shop was trying to use that ECU as a standalone for some reason. If they were concerned about VDC limiting throttle then they should have just put in a VDC kill switch so you could kill power to the VDC/TSC/ABS control unit (requires the vehicle to be restarted after turning the system back on) rather than permanently disabling everything.
It's time to have an honest discussion with that shop to verify they know wtf they're doing, you might have to cut your losses and take the car to another shop.
I don't know why they would be having so much trouble though that ProEFI looks like a VERY straightforward unit to wire up and from there it's just tuning.
https://proefi.com/instructions/
However I can tell by that picture that YES they did unplug the power-side harness off the VDC relay, I can see it in the background of your photo. The harness you're holding is the side of the relay where power basically comes in.
For whatever reason they disconnected it, troubleshoot the system separately from the engine controls stuff it's a 100% standalone system BUT it does send some CANBUS info back to the ECM so the ECM can limit throttle when your tires are spinning or the vehicle VDC system kicks in if you're sliding the car.
With that relay disconnected your ABS brakes will not operate, neither will the VDC (traction control and vehicle stability).
There is no reason to disconnect that stuff with a piggyback computer, this further reinforces my theory that this latest shop was trying to use that ECU as a standalone for some reason. If they were concerned about VDC limiting throttle then they should have just put in a VDC kill switch so you could kill power to the VDC/TSC/ABS control unit (requires the vehicle to be restarted after turning the system back on) rather than permanently disabling everything.
It's time to have an honest discussion with that shop to verify they know wtf they're doing, you might have to cut your losses and take the car to another shop.
I don't know why they would be having so much trouble though that ProEFI looks like a VERY straightforward unit to wire up and from there it's just tuning.
https://proefi.com/instructions/
Well I didn't post the video. I just screen shotted it but I can upload them later. I Mean I wouldn't doubt it I have been thru a lot with this shop. See I told them they messed up my guages and I told them I wasn't picking up the car until a lot of issues were fixed including that so I'm assuming that's why they unplugged it hoping to bypass any work they would have to do to make everything right. The guy straight up told me on recording that he pushed my car off to the side for over 3 months because it wasn't making him anymore money (I paid him in full $5500) so he moved on to other things. So I contacted BBB and a TN Department. Also had to do a surprise drop in cause he was ignoring me.
ProEFI was on my side and said their system was straight forward specially since it was already on the car prior so it just needed a retune for the upgrades and that's what gives them a bad name is dealers that don't know what they're doing. Well now I think ProEFI is tired of me calling them and this guy is so full of it all the time he has them believing his bs. So yesterday ProEFI just blew me off.
It's time to talk to a REPUTABLE shop in your area, tell them what's going on, see if they have room to work on your car. Yes it's going to cost you more money initially but you show up at the other guy's shop with a tow truck unannounced, call ahead to your local police department non-emergency line and ask for them to have an officer present to prevent the situation from escalating, then tow the vehicle to another shop. From that point on you retain a lawyer and sue the other shop for the work the DID NOT complete and recoup most the cost minus legal fees.
If you can't afford to have another shop complete the work then just have it towed back to your house while you sue the other business.
If you can't afford to have another shop complete the work then just have it towed back to your house while you sue the other business.
I forgot to update, finally got the car back late January. Horrible. They cracked by front bumper, there is dings and small dents. Carbon fiber they must have sprayed with tire wet or something cause a few days later and god that thing is so faded from sitting in the sun. Tint is melted. Even the seat belts are sun faded. There is a spot in my undercarriage that is damaged and dented in really bad almost like it fell off a jack or lift. They put in a spec D dual clutch..cost me like 2 grand parts and labor. Finally had a nice day the other day, drove it 20 miles or more and the more I drove it the less the pedal came up from the floor until it was finally just stuck. They glued my shifter in. The left trans wire mounts unbolted and hanging. There was a pulley and bolt in my engine bay sitting. Fender paint they flaked at the bumper mounts on both sides. Bumper was not even fully mounted..you could grab it and move it up and down. The trunk is carbon fiber wrapped and it has some kind of chemical burn and I just had that done. Also my SRS light stays on now and my CEL. The SRS was fine I just had a recall done on it and the CEL was never on. Idk..I could go on all day. I contacted an attorney.
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Jeff92se
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May 26, 2014 02:14 PM
G35Wizard
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