what kind of oil do you guys use? brand and weight?

 

I guess I have faith... because I take mines to the dealer... they included the oil change thing for a year with my deal...

 

castrol gtx 5w30 during the break in up to 10k.
amsoil 15w50 afterwards.
napa gold oil filter
my mpg went up significantly as well.

its a good idea to have your transmission and rear differential fluids as well, once every 10k-15k. it's a little overkill..but i have time and a little money to spare, just to make the car go a long ways. i changed the drivetrain fluids at 5k. the car is at 16k, I'll be using amsoil fluids in the drivetrain and see how it goes from there.

 

now i use mobil1 5w-30.

 

cheap bastid

 

I would not suggest that you go to full synthetic until maybe about 12-15K. There has been an issue about my G losing oil somewhere. I cant locate a leak...and there is no oil being burned out of the exhaust. But I am loosing about a quart every so often. The assumption by the shop is that some where in the break in period, my seals might not have sealed all the way since I switched to full synthetic at 7500. The conventional oil creates a little more friction and thus a little more pressure....this might have been the reason or not. Anyhow, the last service manager mentioned that Nissan really doesnt recommend changing to full synthetic till after about 15K.

Its up to you though. Amsoil and Mobile 1 have been really good. Harder to get Amsoil though,...and Mobile 1 can be gotten at Kmart really cheap. I use the 5-30 weight I believe.......

 

time for a rebuild dave!
i can see it now.
.50mm over w/ Darton Sleeves. O-Ring'ed block.
JE Pistions with Molybdenum coating on the skirts (Toyota Atlantic Spec)
Cunningham Titanium Rods
Micropolished and knife-edge Crank Shaft
HKS Metal Head Gasket O-Ring
JWT worked Heads
Nismo Camshafts
Manley Ti-Valves, Nextek valve springs, Ti-Locks
Stillen Oil Pan Extender
Greddy Oil Filter upgrades (2 inline filters)
Clevite Bearings
OEM Nissan Seals

The list goes on and on...

Thank goodness building motorcycle engines are far more cheap

 

my G has 23K miles and i was thinking of diong a trans and rear diff fluid change. is it hard though? also, isn't that high weight (15w50)? If your mpg went up with the 15w50, I might just try that.

 

nah...it's not too high. it's not like puting tractor fluid in your engine. i have however put tractor trans fluid into my old turbo-regal. worked great, less wear and tear..all that good stuff. using a higher weight gave me some torque (from what my butt dyno says ) I'm also using a product called Bi-Tron that works synergisticly with the oil. It's some old school stuff that got brought back. Bi-Tron is another story though. Changing your drivetrain fluids is just as easy as changing your oil. drain the fluids, fill it back up and then put in the new ones. you're gonna needs a torque wrench to tighten both the full plug and the drain plug to spec. I've also used Bi-Tron in the trans and diff. My mpg went up more when I added Bi-Tron to the mix.


What is Bi-Tron?
http://smartoil.bitronglobal.biz/
it's really good that Tajiri Demo uses them in all their Diesel trucks and Machinery. There are a number of other big rig companies out ther that uses them to offset the cost of the rising rate of oil prices. But it's not meant just for big rigs, but for commuter cars as well. sorry for preaching, but if the price of gas still bothers you, bi-tron had saved my an immence amount of money between fillups. If you not bothered by the cost of gas, still...the idea of saving a few bucks in between fillups should count.

 

Funny that you mention that. A rebuild is on the drawing boards. Slowly working on the complete setup. Need to find a way to compete against those FI versions with an all motor setup. Calculating for a 7500-7700 redline and figuring out if about 370 can be achieved to the wheels, I know 350 is pretty easy. Stumbled across a crap load of parts and suppliers. From the block to pretty much every piece in there to be changed and strengthened to forged internals.

We will see. Like I said...its a work in progress.

 

First off, does anyone know how much a fluid flush would be from the Infiniti dealership? I'm considering doing it myself, but I've never done one before and I'm also not sure how you dispose of the old trans fluid.

Secondly, how the hell are you guys getting accurate readings from your oil dipstick?! With my intake installed, it's almost an impossible task. I'm not saying I don't try, I just can't say w/ any certainty that my readings are accurate. Any tips?

 

Honestly...for the sake of not having the EPA on your butt...have Infiniti do that inspection and disposal for you. I dont think that they would take in the fluid after you drain it since they cant verify that you didnt add anything else in there. I would not advise just dumping it...but I figure you already know that one . There probably is a proceedure by the City and County on who to call,..where to take it.....when to take it......how to handle it...etc. But to me, that would be more of a waste of my time and patience.

Accurate readings from an oil dipstick???? Damn..we have one of those in there?? LOL. All I do is just pull it out carefully and slowly and just enough so i can read the stick versus pulling it all the way out. If I do that, I tend to whack it against something and thereby shaking the oil off everywhere in the engine bay.

Goodluck though.

 

where do you get this bitron product? looks interesting. how does it compare to stuff like royal purple, red line, and torco oils.

 

I'm one of the local distributors. I'd say they work on par, if not? Better! Why? For one you can use not so glamorous oils like Chevron or NAPA brand oils, w/bi-tron, It will make your cheap oil more efficient. it's like +1 when you use synthetics, bi-tron simply makes them work better. you use the products in your gas tank, crank case, trans case, and diff case. So if your using say a good oil like Castrol GTX (in tests..the only dino oil comparable to Synthetic) w/bi-tron. you'll be saving money at the parts store because you're not spending $7.00/per QT. Saving money at the pump. and when you save money...all that sh*t adds up!

I've been using bi-tron for the last 5 months, and my MPG has been steadily going up. slowly...but surely. Before using Bi-Tron, I'd get anywhere between 180-200 miles between fillups. I usually fill up right when I get to 1/4 tank full. After treating the engine, transmission, and differential with Bi-Tron, My mileage went up to 260-280 at 1/4 tank full. 5 months after, I'm seeing about 300-315. I get a lot of stop and go traffic. And I aint easy on the throttle either.

I know it's preaching, but hey...not too much people know about this. It's been used before but due to some drama within, the company had to shut down. It's rebirth and new ownership gave it the drive it needed to suceed now. There's a hand full of drag racers (locally) that used to use this stuff but due to the drama, couldnt get them any more. Guys like Les Omori, Dean Ogata, Henry Tabios...all really fast Drag Racers...like single digit fast! And now they got the bitron lubes in their cars again. And they're more than happy with them. It's that good that even Machine Shops recognize them from back in the day.

Dunno..if you guys are interested, lmk. PM me if you want my number to explain more about it.

 

^ i'm game for some 6. PM info. i can hook you up with a GRIP load of Las Vegas jerky, or Girl Scout Cookies (all flavors).

seriously though, lmk through PM regarding bi-tron.